It's very soft, like nothing happens until I'm getting close to the bottom, or at least it's very weak braking power until getting close to the bottom.

They shop said it takes a long time to bleed each corner for air.

I did call them up and they'll look at it on Monday. 2009 L322 4.2 Supercharged

Yes, it's been bled wrong. I'd expect them to use a power bleeder on something like this. If they're doing it manually, the old fashioned way, it might be a lot harder to do.

If you can pump the pedal a few times and the bite point raises, that would suggest air in the system too. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

They did say, before they started the job, that it would take 2 hours per corner, or if it was 2 hours totally, just to remove the air. I found it quite a long time but I don't know as I've never done it mysef, only been watching DYI videos for fun.

I'll try pump the pedal and see if bite point raises, thanks for the tip!
What if the bite point don't raise? 2009 L322 4.2 Supercharged

Nope, they’ll need to run the ABS pump whilst bleeding, I bet they didn’t!
FFRR’s are a pig to bleed if you don’t have the right gear and know what you are doing.
Take it back and tell them you’re not happy, it doesn’t feel safe if you have to make an emergency stop etc. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks! I can give them this as an advice to them.

What do you mean with "run the ABS" pump? Is this documented anywhere so I can share it with the shop manager? 2009 L322 4.2 Supercharged

A diagnostic device is required to activate the abs pump whilst bleeding the brakes .
Ask if the gap iid tool can do this . The Foxwell NT 530 pro is not expensive and a Land Rover specific version will be available but check with the supplier that it can do that function for Land Rover vehicles .
Do a full system flush with a pressure bleeder then do another bleed with a device to activate the abs pump and have a person press and release the brake pedal every 3 seconds while the abs pump is operating . A lot of fluid will be released when doing this so be sure to have plenty fluid in the pressure bleeder . Best have at least 5 litres of brake fluid available .

Each time the abs pump is activated it will probably operate for about 30 seconds and when it stops then keep the bleed valve open until another 150ml of fluid has flushed out

Need a correct type charger to fully charge the battery and then switch the charger to power supply mode when activating the abs pump for brake bleeding . Something that can supply 25 amps and preferably much more amps . Give the battery time to recover after bleeding each caliper .

It sounds like the garage will not be able to replicate this method to be honest.

I found this guide of bleeding brakes for L322. Is this something I could share with them?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/l3...jpg.32768/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/l3...jpg.32769/ 2009 L322 4.2 Supercharged

Years and years ago, driving an old 500 Euro Golf to work - as a temporary replacement car - I had to brake, not even very hard and all of a sudden the pedal went to the bottom.
Frighting!
I started pumping the pedal like an idiot to get some slowing down...
Even old Golfs have cross separated LF/RR - RF/RL brake lines, for a reason.
And I had to drive that car back home too!
This was after a nightshift at 5 in the morning with no other cars on the road.
Would not recommend.
Probably illegal too. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

I’ve successfully bled the brakes on several L322’s now.

The first one I did with the IID tool operating the ABS module and it wasn’t right after it.

Every other one I’ve done with a pressure bleeder. Pump it up to 15-20 PSI and open the brakes in the right order. From memory, its Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Left then Front Right.

I always repeat that process 2 or 3 times and have never had any issues at all afterwards. Hope this helps.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
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I agree with David,
When I replaced all my brake lines including flexables at the rear, I used a pressure bleeder and did all 4 corners twice, never touched the ABS module and it sailed through the MOT.
Provided you havnt allowed the reservoir to run dry and suck air in you should be ok .

Peter

Thanks all.
Spoke with the shop today. As I'm pending replacement of right rear brake hose we're waiting to do bleeding until then as they don't want to do it twice as it takes two people to bleed the brakes.

As it's two people doing it, I believe they're doing it the old way without pressure bleeder.

The shop owner said it's no problem that the brakes bite lower, as some owners want that way, and some owners wants it higher.

This weekend I pumped the pedal a few times and the bite point raises. 2009 L322 4.2 Supercharged

To RangeRov: you've got to find a way to tell your workshop in a friendly manner they are talking out of their ass.
No one wants the brakes to bite a bit lower...
In fact: that's not how the brake hydraulics work and keep in mind hydraulic fluid is not compressible.
You press the pedal you move a piston you move brake fluid you move another piston that presses the pads against the disk.

As soon as there is a spongy / soft feeling pressing the brake pedal and the brake pedal goes way deeper than before: you've got air in the system. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

RangeRov wrote:

The shop owner said it's no problem that the brakes bite lower, as some owners want that way, and some owners wants it higher.

That is utter & total rubbish!

I changed all 4 calipers and flexible lines on my L405, and bled with a pressure bleeder in the correct sequence, but the pedal remained spongy (even though I’d clamped the old hoses it was impossible not to get air in fitting the new hoses), (I wasn’t aware of the ABS thing at the time, and didn’t have a GAP tool then anyway) I took it very slowly to my (very local) LR specialist Indy, who did it using Pathfinder to run the ABS pump, it came back with a nice, solid pedal, but £100 poorer.

Soft Pedal = Job not done properly!!! “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?