Yes, I get that static when the batteries low too, have only experienced that since fitting the Naviplus so it's definitely related.

If the batteries charged then it doesn't do it, just when it's low. I get all sorts of weird gremlins when the batteries low so it seems pretty unsurprising

(New battery arrived today and is currently on-charge, job for the weekend to fit it!)

Yeah, it really hates low power. It kind of bothers me, Naviplus is saying I can rewire it to a 12V Socket or to the fuse box. How concerned is everyone else about the issue?

I think I just had the same response from the guy at Naviplus - he suggested to me removing the yellow wire from the harness and controlling it via an ignition fed feed.

I asked as I’ve been trying to track down a parasitic battery drain issue - something keeps waking up the BCM and draining the battery and one of the common things to be done is “remove all third party accessories”.

I have a feeling this may be it tbh.

I’m only a few days away from making a long distance trip, so as reticent as I am about hacking about with the wiring right now, I’m gonna give it a go

I’m not worried about the static thing too much, but the waking of the BCM causing battery drain, if it is this, does worry me. I want to be able to leave the car for a few weeks without having to worry about it, especially for the summer and/or ski season when I’m likely to leave the car for a few days and want to be able to use the onboard battery to power stuff without worrying about it!

I haven't had issues with the system draining my battery luckily. I may try that with the yellow cable. Let me know what you end up doing!

I'm still working through it!

I'm seeing a current drain which kicks in a few hours after the car's been locked and can pull the battery from 12.7 to 12 volts in the space of a about 6 hours - this doesn't seem to me like it's anything to do with the Naviplus, so I'd like to resolve that situation first before looking at the Naviplus as being a potential problem.

There's more details on this thread: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic57611.html

It could well be it's caused by the Naviplus but I'm just a bit reluctant to change too much at once as I think that usually makes problems harder to diagnose.

Great write ups. I really won't to do this but funds won't allow me. But if one is offered on here I would glady purchase. Looks to be the best solution.

Thanks everyone who has posted in these threads about their installation experiences with Naviplus - they helped me greatly and I finished my installation today!

I was expecting it to be a lot of work, but it was way more than that

I took a lonnnnnnng time over stripping down the dashboard as I didn't want to break or scratch anything, and there was a lot to figure out - especially the removal of the centre dash top vents (there are three spring clips nearest you which need coaxing out first, then popping out the two tabs holding the other side releases it).

The (dual view, in my case) display tear down and adding the extra components was straight forward, though closing the unit back up required some finessing as the extra components foul the two front panel cables - I had to remove the white cable ties, and move things around carefully to gain some extra room. Of particular challenge was reconnecting the two ribbon cables, as the stiffer TFT ribbon now has a different connection point and will need some care as you close up the unit again. It sticks out slightly, so will need some tape to protect it.

The touch lead that comes out of the display is a ribbon cable - I found it best to split it in half to make it easier to route.
The LVDS input cable similarly exits alongside a front panel cable, and will need simple modification of the side mounting bracket to allow it through to the back of the back of the unit, where it can follow the rest of the factory cables down into the passenger footwell.

As others have already mentioned, finding appropriate places to squirrel away the new components around by the fuse board is not easy! I sited the NetPlay box and SWC above the fuse board, and the video interface in front of the head unit.

A lot of work, quite nerve wracking as you wait to see whether your screen mods were good, but the end result was well worth it for me. (I'd fitted an aftermarket CarPlay unit in my previous vehicle and knew I would miss it, so I bought this kit the same day I bought the Range Rover )


Yikes:

Nice work, looks a neater job than mine tbh!

It's a bit nervewracking taking so much of the dash apart when you're only a few weeks into ownership, so, good on ya!

I’m in the process of this now. Got to admit that the trim removal is a bit of a challenge. The instructions both from naviplus and in the wiki workshop manual seem to skip rather essential parts.

I think it took me 3 days to get to the stripped down dash point in the photo above, but I was working very slowly - not just because I was being overly careful not to break anything, but because over New Years it was below freezing and I couldn't spend too long outside before losing feeling in my fingers and toes!

Ok it’s not too bad then for me. I think I’ve been at it for 4 hours and I’m one step before that point. I need to take the battery power off, then take the top part off.

And my gosh the wiring did the glovebox locks is not long is it. Doesn’t give much to unplug them.

And then weirdly taking the light switch off on the drivers side makes the lights go on??? I just popped it out so I can plug it back. Weird wiring.

It’s surprisingly spacious behind there though. So hopefully I can finish it off tomorrow morning. If I can overcome my fear of taking the negative off the battery where there is no space 🤣

Finally found some use for my power tool attachments. 🤣

So close, the strip down is a right pain and these later L322 are rather different. Event the screws for the display unit. I’m glad I had some extensions as two of them are deeply buried. But ahem, right next to an open hole when you lift the unit. So don’t think like me that they will stay at the bottom, you got to use a grabber tool to dig them out or loose them. FFS I now have to take the driver side apart as there is a loose screw drop down there somewhere grrrr.

Anyway this connector has got me as well. I’ve managed to dismantle everything without breaking anything so don’t want to do that now. How does this fastener work on the connector to undo it? I tried pushing in, tried pushing out. I can’t seem to get any movement.

Click image to enlarge

Does anyone have any idea? I’ve already broken one side of the clip Surely there must be a trick to this as you’ve all done this.

Argh, I honestly can't remember - and I had it in and out a few times too, as the first time I set it up the colours were all off (I had to open it all up and reseat the ribbon cable).

I'm trying to recall if that one required a small screwdriver shoved inside to release a latch?

Looking at pictures of the Denso units on eBay the white socket looks similar to the blue socket, even though the plugs are different:



Frustratingly, all the tear down videos I can find are for older models. I'll keep looking...