I have searched and cannot locate a similar L322 issue so posting my problem.

Had a flat battery at the weekend , probably due to short trips and working away for 3 days. I charged the battery for a couple of hours and then took for a drive on the A14. As I got up to 50 a mild judder started and progressively got worse upto 70. The judder was through the cabin and not the steering. I reached my exit, turned around and went back down the road with no further issues.
Yesterday I travelled to London and on to Worthing. Same thing happened numerous times. If I backed off it would stop and be fine at all speeds but then it would come back. Today it happened just once..

Now this may be a battery issue as after a 400mile drive my gap tool is telling me the voltage is 12v. Charging is 14.8v.

It is not tyres as not doing it all the time.

Any thoughts?

A thought:

It's possible this is caused by a sticking caliper causing a disc to heat up and become warped. It may not be noticeable all the time. Check after a run having tried to avoid using the brakes as much as possible. Check the wheels from the rim inwards to see if one is hotter than the others. Use the back of your hand or you'll be sorry if that's the problem.

The charging voltage is fine, the battery voltage is a little low perhaps, but if you have a multimeter use that. The GAP may not be totally accurate. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

I did think brake caliper. They were refurbed by previous owner. Next time it does it I will try and stab the brakes to see if it stops it.

The difficulty with checking temps is finding a location to get up to speed, wait till it does it and being able to pullover and check.

If there's one sticking I doubt stabbing the brakes will clear it. And you said the previous owner rerfurbed them. Hmmmm. Did he do them himself?

Why do you need to get up to a real speed? You don't necessarily need a long, fast run, just a few miles and see if there's any temperature difference between the wheels. That' a start. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

New slides etc were ordered, I have a receipt. Not internal refurb I am guessing..

I just meant to get it up to that speed as it was only noticeable then.

It is possible as it may be binding and then gradually release again. I was worried about diff/transfer box oils or issue. My first RR so I am not up to speed yet.

On my previous 2008 TDV8 the same symptom was caused by one of the four pistons in the front driver side calliper which had delaminated a little so wasn't moving properly and would stick. I replaced all the pistons on that side and it never happened again. Good quality pistons from Brakes International - they sell Budweg German pistons which are I'm told better than the factory fit and their customer service is superb.

Thanks WB. Guess I will be checking the calipers this weekend.

Or giving them a spray of oil!  2011 4.4tdv8 Vogue
Baltic Blue

Definitely don't spray oil anywhere near your callipers!

The pistons are internal components which have seals around them. The callipers need to be removed from the car to get the pistons out to check them. If they need replacing only the correct grease must be used as this is compatible with brake fluid and the rubber seals!

If you don't know what you're doing needless to say please do your homework thoroughly or please don't work on brakes and take it to a mechanic.

The system will need bleeding after the callipers are put back on the car too!

None of this constitutes instructions or advice for you to do the work yourself!

Really sorry if this comes across as anything other than caring for your and other road users safety!!!!

No problem. That was my sense of humour btw.  2011 4.4tdv8 Vogue
Baltic Blue

+1 on checking the calipers at the weekend.

Stuff using oil, leave the pads out and use the "handbrake" There's not much short of a 40 tonner you can't use as a collapsible buffer.

On oils in transmission, if you are concerned change all the component oils and it seems that having the gearbox flushed and new pan and filter fitted is the preference of owners of the 8 speed on here. It has a repuatation as a very good box, but ISTR Land Rover say it's sealed for life but the manufacturer says change the oil at about 80K. I know who I would defer to!!! Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Purchased from Cossy and he did all of this more than once. I will dig through receipts and see what brake work was done. 2011 4.4tdv8 Vogue
Baltic Blue

Sticking calliper.

Or sticking pad in the callipers carrier.

Check for temp differences on the back discs, then remove the Caliper carriers and clean thoroughly with a wire brush on a grinder. Refit and try again.

If not fixed then it’s a new calliper, most factors will carry a replacement refurbed item. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

 2011 4.4tdv8 Vogue
Baltic Blue

northernmonkeyjones wrote:

Sticking calliper.

Or sticking pad in the callipers carrier.

Check for temp differences on the back discs, then remove the Caliper carriers and clean thoroughly with a wire brush on a grinder. Refit and try again.

If not fixed then it’s a new calliper, most factors will carry a replacement refurbed item.

From memory Bearmach do rear callipers for 50 quid not sure of the quality I always fit original where brakes are concerned but have a look