MarianaWestminster wrote:

Just another quick update to this for anyone who goes down the same route.

I noticed the other day that every time I started the car I was getting 'special programs off' at the bottom of the dash.

Tried to use terrain reponse and it was inoperative with a warning on the dash board.

The fix was to unplug the now unused adaptive damping module in the rear right cubby of the boot.

All features now working without CVD suspension!

This is a frustrating read… I feel the harsher ride in my current than I did in my last L322 which also was a 2010 model with CVD, but put it down to running 22’s with 35 sidewalls. I plan to change to larger sidewalls when they are in need of replacement but worry it’ll be of limited benefit

With as many people saying they have the magic carpet ride even with CVD, I wonder if there is something else causing problems. There have been references to the accelerometers, poor balancing, electrical issues… but as of yet no smoking bullet.

Is there another price to the puzzle we haven’t spotted yet?

Regardless, I am pleased you are happy with the change to non CVD suspension. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

This is a question for Graemes do you know if Old Emu does a CVD damper or would you say that OEM is up to the job when towing a heavy Tintent? I know Blistins have a good name but Old Emu have done a lot of work in Australia and a lot of bush whackers use them?

At this point it may be worthwhile someone explaining exactly what the CVD system is supposed to do?
Is it to control body roll like an ARB or is it to smooth out bumps? Given that tyres are part of the suspension (sidewall stiffness) any change away from stock is likley to change it's function as if the tyre can't absorb the energy of a road imperfection that energy is transferred to the shocks and springs which creates the classic 'crashy' ride.

It varies the oil flow in the dampers based on surface conditions (also monitors pitch/roll and tries to compensate for it). Tyres shouldn’t affect it. What I found that did affect it was a bent, unbalanced wheel. It tries to compensate for wheel tramp (wheel bouncing) by firming the damper - a bent/unbalanced wheel must give the ecu similar characteristics 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

Logically with faster inputs from an unbalanced wheel the damping should ease off.

Ensure that your CVD software is at the latest level. The L322 was LRs first use of CVDs so lessons learnt since their introduction including lessons learnt from the L405 and L494 could have triggered software updates for early vehicles.
My IIDtool shows my April 12 build's strategy version AH42-14C542-AH is the latest level, which I expect to be the original version as many ecus were back-level when I bought the vehicle in 2015.

JayGee wrote:

Logically with faster inputs from an unbalanced wheel the damping should ease off.

Well I’ve had one of the front dampers replaced. I’d noticed that the front right of the bonnet was bouncing when comparing it to the road ahead. Found the left was replaced a couple years ago with a BWI unit so used the same for the front right.

Ride is transformed! Safe to say I’ll be sticking with the CVD system.

Thanks for everyone’s input on this 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

Well that’s reassuring!!!
What was your issue before? Was it just a harsh ride? If your front was bouncing then I would have thought a more of a wollowing ride than harsh…

I’m curious as I find my rise is harsh, and one of my rear struts bounces too… it’s next on my list… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Yep harsh very bouncy ride. Turning off traction control now replicated the issue (disables the cvd system) whereas before it made no change 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

GraemeS wrote:

Ensure that your CVD software is at the latest level. The L322 was LRs first use of CVDs so lessons learnt since their introduction including lessons learnt from the L405 and L494 could have triggered software updates for early vehicles.
My IIDtool shows my April 12 build's strategy version AH42-14C542-AH is the latest level, which I expect to be the original version as many ecus were back-level when I bought the vehicle in 2015.

On my Audi with air suspension and user selectable damper rates I have recently found that at the softest setting the ride is harsh and crashy at slower speeds over urban roads with potholes and speed bumps etc but very smooth at higher speeds on A and B roads. Conversely at the stiff setting it's more comfortable and non crashy at lower speeds but quite harsh at higher speeds. This would suggest that worn shocks = crashy ride at low speeds which is very counter intuitive but seems to be confirmed by experiences here.

Yeah I think the solenoid gave up with meant it was on the hardest setting permanently. Couple that with 155k miles on them and it resulted in a terrible ride 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

With most cars once you get up to around 100k miles or even before the shock absorbers will be well past their best and should be replaced as a 'service item' for best performance. An expensive exercise for the facelift models and hence why I'm looking at pre facelift 3.6's or high mile 4.4's where this has already been done.