alfapat
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Nov 11, 2013
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Location:
Elgin
,,
After a few short runs over 2 weeks and going to work 8mls, by the afternoon car would not turn over L322 td6 04.
All dash lights on with occasional warning of transmission protection and Hdc. Checked battery not brilliant , however after a boost start and lots of key turning no clicks and boom engine starts. Stopped on the way home and a decent start up again, transmission fine by the way . Next morning started and went to work , car starts at lunch time battery showing 12.1v car ticks over at 14.0v . Returned mid afternoon and voltage at 12.5v , it didn’t start at
and still not starting . Left battery at 11.9v , previous to that was linked to tractor transferring 13.0v and didn’t turn then either , just no engagement , albeit one kick of starter which I missed .
Any thoughts please
I will take battery out tomorrow, I also checked it out with cca tester and it said battery good but required charging .
Some help please as to location of starter relay or anything else ?

i'd start with a brand new battery first...


whats that stuff at the beginning of your post ? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Not sure , don’t know.
Battery good , just discharged apparently, can’t throw at it untill I’m sure , thanks .

Would anyone qualify the proper rated battery other than the one that Halfrauds suggest please, which is either 95Ah or 100Ah with 900 cca . My own one is 800 cca

Try moving the gear lever a little bit in Park. It could be the switch - mine plays up sometimes.

Battery? According to my copy of RAVE for our year models (incl yours):

Ok looks like a Varta 020 looking on here.
I took it out and got as far as 80% and fitted it back on , no change in starting problem. It was suggested to me that the proximity switch might be inhibiting the key start , so I lifted the gear console cover meanwhile trying the key and the car started , BOOM!
Looks like some trouble under there , possibly dodgy wire , not sure yet.

Ok can’t rplicate the fault under the console, so would any of the plugs inhibit the starting process if they were dodgy, would the only way out is to remove one by one to see ?

Could be the ignition switch, often a cause of problems.

Possible quick fixes

1. Strong vacuum over the switch
2. Apply liberal amounts of easing fluid into the switch

Otherwise replace the switch .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Ok will check that out tomorrow, every time I move released console cover , it relates to wire movement , if you get me?

Had a similar issue with a P38, don’t know whether yours has improved weather proof connections or not compared to that one. I found the solenoid connection to the starter had corroded causing intermitent poor conductivity, wiggling it would get it started. The wire had corroded inside the sheath too, cut it back 6” and soldered new wire and a spade connector solved the problem.

All starter connections good , working well at the moment!

ok spoke too soon , its not turning over again , I have most of the centre console and cant see anything untoward.Its bee ok since my last post , so I need to know where the starter relay is , word is its behind the battery in the blsck box , but there is a light brown one , but I thing its light green and so I cant find it , does anyone know please.

Also what does the Battery squib do and is it part of the starter relay system , what oother than connections should I be looking for please?

Having a read about squib , I left it a lone!

I had similar symptoms which I cured with a new starter motor. RR History
1988 2.4td Classic 1999 to 2020
1992 3.9efi Westminster Classic 2004-2005
2005MY L322 3.0TD6 Vogue 2016 to current