Lots of owners on here will be watching with interest, thinking , is it a job I can do, when needs arise.
Maybe you could start a new thread with lots of pictures?

PS.
Did Stan fix you up with a manual ?

PPS
How did you spot oil in coolant? G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

The specialist I used just kept flushing it out, I imagine with some chemical... took about 4 flushes.... I ran it for a year, with a slight shine on top of the antifreeze when looking in the header tank. Just had big service so had it changed again now, just for my peace of mind....

My header tank still looks crappy though, despite their efforts to clean it. Might get a new one in time...about £80 I am told...not checked....

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Oil in coolant?.... easy to spot....

Separate thread here....

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic35830....r+oil+leak

Yep, got the manual......very helpful

Once the parts arrive from Dan, i'll try and post the procedure with pics.

It was easy to spot the oil......instead of a nice orange colour, there was a slick on top of the coolant and a sh!tty looking mess in the header tank.

I've got plenty of coolant to replace it, but was wondering if taking the header tank out and thoroughly cleaning it would be the easiest way.

Short of filling the cooling system with a degreaser, I can't see how you can be sure to clean it all the oil out!

Chaps does this pipe feed the turbo?

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Yes, it connects the oil cooler in the rear-centre of the V to both turbos

Has anyone attempted a warranty claim for this? My LR warranty is about to expire and I have been on at LR for a year now regarding the (relatively small) oil leak caused by this.

They investigated and said it was probably the rear main oil seal which it clearly is not. Having investigated as per the start of the thread, it is definitely the top seals, but I haven't told LR this, preferring them to find it.

As my warranty nears its end, I am going to point this thread out and show them the issue, however I expect them to try and wriggle out, so does anyone know if this is a recognized and known issue? Will they claim 'wear and tear' or do I stand a chance of them accepting this is poor engineering?

I would check the small print on your warranty, I’m sure that I’ve seen oil leaks on a list of exclusions and I don’t think that I’ve seen anything other than a JLR warranty recently.
I might be wrong but it’s worth checking before you spend too much time on it.

Just found the oil leaking from mine with the oil burning smell (and smokey haze around the lights last night after a drive). Can I assume you don’t need to drain the oil to pull off the union and replace the O rings? Ordered the viton rings from EBay. If this fixes it I’ll be a happy chappy  Chris

Correct, no need to drain the oil to replace the O rings.

Remember to clean up any oil you find so you can tell if the leak has gone.

Also suggest you check the coolant (when cold) and make sure you don't see any oil in the header tank.

Mike

Thanks Mike. The coolant tank looks like there’s darker deposits on the side, but I wouldn’t say the coolant itself is dark with oil if that makes sense. I certainly haven’t got a thick slick on top. To be honest the coolant probably needs changing anyway. I’ll keep an eye on it after changing the o rings. Was yours still leaking in the same place after the o ring change or was it the oil in coolant that made you change the cooler? Do you mind me asking what the price of the cooler was from Dan? Chris

Just checked mine, took the pollen filter housing out and the cover off, all looks fine.

I have ordered a pack of the o-rings as I lost the last set I bought!!

As Craig says removing the pollen filter housing is dead simple, 2 nuts, pull off the bonnet seal and slide it out, it’s the obvious 2 grey nuts, access a load better then! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

There are two problems that can cause the oil to run down the bell housing, one is the turbo feed O rings, the other is a failure in the oil cooler.

The first can be resolved by replacing the O rings.

The other involves removing the oil cooler and either replacing the whole unit or replacing the gasket that keeps the oil and coolant apart.

What gave mine away was that the oil from the cooler was pooling in the V, which is higher than the turbo feed.

The replacement cooler from Dan was around £300 whereas the gasket was £15. Being a canny Scot and having dislike of paying others to do something I can do myself, I opted to replace the gasket. Much to my relief, that solved the problem.

If you're seeing dark blobs in the coolant (remember, they won't mix), then that's most likely oil from the cooler, and you need to keep an eye on it. If there is oil in the coolant, it'll need to be dumped after the leak is fixed.

Mike

OK, so changed the o rings the other day, but with the engine cover off could see the engine oil was accumulating on the top of the oil cooler assembly, so it’s either the oil cooler or gasket at fault. Ordered the gaskets to replace as the cheaper option first. Is there anything I need to be aware of when changing no this? Simple as stripping the top components away to get to the cooler? Do I need to drain oil or coolant to complete this? I’ve also read about cleaning the sensors at the same time. Chris

Sorry can't answer your question(s) but if you can post up some photos of this job once you're done it would be a great Chris.
Good luck, Greg Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway