The FF has been sat on the drive, unmoved for the past 3 1/2 weeks - most of that has been under a foot of snow.

The Pistonheads article inspired me to go and drive it, I was expecting the worst as I walked up to it but "click" the central locking worked ok, engine pre heat came up and went out, HDC inactive (of course! I'd be disappointed if I didn't get it now!) and it fired perfectly!

I took it for a drive, I thought it drove better than I had remembered. No sign of the dreaded TFS either.

HAPPY

 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

It was all going so well.............* BONG * TRANS FAILSAFE PROG

I had left the vehicle for nearly 10 days, and the message came on 5 minutes into the journey. Then disappeared. It came back about 2 minutes later and disappeared again.

On the way back - Fault free.

48 hours later, TFSP occurs 5 minutes into the journey again. Drove 15 miles, it didn't reoccur. Plugged in RSW All comms and got the following:-

HIDs less than 7.5V

This fault cleared OK:



This fault would not clear.



Left car for 3 hours. Drove home, no issues.

My challenge is that my personal circumstances means lots of short trips. On the basis that I feel that it's better to not use it at all than do trips of less than 1 mile I tend to use another vehicle so it can sit for days on end!

Once the vehicle is warmed and charged up it doesn't seem to reappear, I bet if I was using it on long journeys every day I wouldn't see the fault at all! As mentioned before, the battery and alternator are new OE parts.

Is there anything I can try myself before booking it in and throwing yet more parts at it?!

All responses welcome!

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Hi All,

Took the car on a 65 miles / 1,5 hours motorway journey - No issues.
Used the vehicle later from cold - 10 minutes into the journey I got a two TFSP warnings - They just bong and disappear.
Used the vehicle today - got two TFSP warnings. Stopped for fuel after 20 miles. Fault free for the rest of the journey (45 miles).

I got the TFSP warning when driving uphill, with high engine load and I also got it when coasting downhill on a zero throttle so there doesn't seem to be any pattern to it.

Drove hard through Milton Keynes on the latter part of the journey - Full throttle and red lining it between roundabouts - Gearbox changes fine. My only observation is that the car tends to "push on" a bit as you're braking and slowing down. It's hard to explain! Could this be connected to the CAN bus brake signal fault?

Observations:
TFSP happens between 3 and 15 minutes into a journey
TFSP happens 2 - 4 times
TFSP doesn't occur when the vehice is hot

I see that RRPhil posted details of the CAN bus brake signal fault on another forum. If it was a bad connection why doesn't it happen when the vehicle is hot too? Does it get warm under the bonnet and everything expand? Is there any merit in me checking connections?

Bearing in mind I cleared all the faults approx. 200 miles ago, this is what I have now:-

Everything will clear except for the last one "Transmission Control Query - CAN bus brake signal - General Fault"

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

I had the TFSP Bong today after simply turning the ignition on. I hadn't even started the FF, let alone driven anywhere.

Is it fair to say that this is a connection issue? (although I can't work out why it doesn't happen when the car is hot!)

If so, which connections should I check?

Is the gearbox ecu brake signal area a good start? 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

All,

I have pretty much narrowed the TFSP down to the transfer shift motor.

It has been switching between high and low OK albeit a bit noisy, sometimes it would just "hang". Well switching between the two this morning (I thought giving it some excercise might free it up!) and it has put istelf in low range and there is stays! My maximum speed is now 30 MPH @ 4,000 RPM!

Does anyone know if RRPHIL still offers the shift motor refurbishment service? I have not seen him on here for a while.

My other question is...............If if fit a new motor will it simply take it out of low and back into high using the button?

RRPHIL if you see this and could let me know please before I have to dig deep into my already empty pockets............  2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

here's Phils profile page, you can pm or email him..

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/member-rrphil.html ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hi Stan,

Many thanks - I have sent RRPHIL a PM.

Cheers  2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

I have the same problem SKOT, if I put in Low Range it stays there, although the shift motor seems to be fine ( I even bought a new one to prove that point! ) Not been able to diagnose the cause as with an old motor I have been able to manually wind the transfer unit back up to High Range. Done transfer box oil change and gearbox oil change too. Hopefully yours is just a knackered shift motor  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

someone has done a really good 'how to' re shift motors on the wiki....  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

.........And a very good write up it is too!

Whilst I'm waiting for RRPhil to confirm he can do a transfer box refurb for me, I guess my question in the meantime is more around can I get the vehicle back into high range with the exisiting (probably knackered) transfer box motor on it? I'm pretty stuffed in low range! 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

@ stan.

If you really want to get back into high range you have two options, both require you to remove the shift transfer motor from the car. That is the easy bit. When removing and refitting the motor be careful to not strip the threads on the transfer box casing.

1. Using wires with clips on a spare battery connect to the correct pins on the motor. If it runs it will turn the spindle back to the high range position. Now refit back to the car and repeat. (Bloody fiddly due needing to ensure good connections) Powerfuluk have a couple of good videos on this, but on the bench.

2. Dismantle the motor - but only remove the motor housing to reveal the commutator (magnets are/should be glued to the casing, if not this could be the problem so re-glue them with very sticky glue). Now refit the motor without the casing, and spin the commutator by hand back up to high range. Remove motor, refit casing, then refit motor again.

Do not play with the high/low range button again  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Question - If I can get the L322 into high range, and I remove the transfer box motor, part IGH500010 (will it still start and drive OK? I'm guessing there will be dash errors galore but will it still physically operate?

Thoughts please? 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Hi All,

On the basis that I am totally mechanically useless, a mechanic friend has the FF today.

He removed the Transfer Box Motor (TBM), put 12V to it and it runs fine (a tad noisy maybe but seems OK) - He is going to check the resistance at various stages of motor position next.

On the car, by hand he twisted the transfer box input and moved it into neutral and High Range. BUT when he put the TBM back onto the vehicle and plugged it in, igntion on etc. it put the car back into Low Range again

He is going to try a battery disconnect and +ve and -ve together to do a reset (thanks for the input Joe 90) in case the ECU is sending the wrong signal.

Does anyone have any other advice or suggestions? I am getting a bit desperate now!

Thanks in advance for some advice and suggestions!

Cheers,

SKOT 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

There is also the reset procedure. (which is what you are "supposed" to do if you change the TSM) Removing fuse 37 might help here ?

Interested in how your mechanic turned the gear wheel by hand. This would be useful info? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi Joe,

I tried RRPhil's Fuse 37 procedure this morning before he removed the motor - I will get him to try this again - Thanks.

Gear wheel by hand - Not sure, he did say that it was very stiff but could feel it go through the three stages of low, neutral and high, he just wasn't sure which it was in. 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav