Does anyone know how the electrics for the tailgate 'route' as i've replaced the wiring loom for mine as ssomething has happened to it previously, likely involving some sort of ape but i've got everything bar one latch solenoid connected( i need to get one) and the switch wont fire the solenoid off

I dont wont to connect up a duff solenoid( i have 2) as i reckon the motors are burnt out anyway

Also has anyone tried to source the lower tailgate strut as used on armoured versions to make it easier lowering it??

Thanks,
KP

dont know exactly what you mean by 'route' mr pleb, but the wiring comes in through a rubber sheathing and goes both left and right on the tailgate..btw the carpet bit comes off very easily..

Right i've replaced the harness, both solenoids on both sides, a new switch as well and still can't get the solenoids to fire when the button is pushed

Is there a fuse for this circuit at all does anyone know?

The lower tailgate motors are fed thro Fuse 16 and then thro a relay.

Just to clarify, its Fuse 16 on the "rear" fuseboard which is numbered on the car as Fuse 86, 10A.

cheers NDF I'll give it a check over tomorrow. May be the relay is fried as well as the wiring wa a right dogs dinner when i got to it

Well checked fuse 16 in the rear fuse box and its a good un

Which relay is it that it uses and is it swappable with another does anyone know?

im stuck at work today and tomorrow so cant check rave

kingpleb wrote:

Also has anyone tried to source the lower tailgate strut as used on armoured versions to make it easier lowering it??

Thanks,
KP

Jeez, I thought they were plenty light enough already - I think it would only be half the weight of my old Classic's tailgate. Maybe save your pennies and buy a gym membership?

2011 models have a strut on the right hand side of the lower bootlid to stop the boot crashing down when you open it... Is that what you mean?


Craig

Might have a nosey at the dealership if im passing sometime craig and see if its what im after as its likely going to be the cheaper option

Don't need a gym membership just want to get the lids opening nice and smooth and not clunking out like some old banger

Ok as an update i've ploughed into raves electrical document and found pages 24 + 43 seem to show that the following happens;

Boot switch triggers a signal to the BCU
BCU then sends a trigger signal to the Relay
Relay then sends a 0.7 second burst to the lower tailgate solenoids

This is a right faf compared to the simple nature of just triggering the relay directly and cuts out work for the BCU as well. god knows what else is being pumped into the BCU that should be logically thought out.

Tomorrow will be spent looking at this a little and the upper tailgate issue i now face

Well i've looked at my fusebox doesn't match the one from RAVE

If it did i would have a relay missing

Can anyone with a Vogue, TD6, Pre-facelift (IE 2005>) take a picture of their rear fusebox so i can compare please as it may be that the fuse was popped as well and not replaced by the previous owner

http://www.rangerovers.net/outfitting/towi...onnections

just over half way down is a pic of the fusebox..

Cheers scarey I guess the 5 pin relay is missing then another thing to add to my list

can you not take one out from somewhere else and try to make it works ok.

Fraid not as it's one of the oblong not squares and only other one in there is a 4pin unit will need to pm fan to get a price for it and my wiper motor