Ok - the original thread is here:

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...t-arm.html

Yes , its on another forum, but its my thread ... I made it !

A few points about it:

regarding this image:

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Holey (!) Cr@P.

So half hour or so twiddling a few spanners isn't going to do it?

Fortunately have a mate with a proper ramp, good selection of splitters, and an even better selection of large hammers.

Just had an email (and text message!) from Island reporting the goods will be delivered tomorrow. Good service so far.

David

Don't worry, it's not that bad.

My rr is pretty bad for bolts as , being in the west of Scotland, as well the salted roads, the climate is perfect for rusting stuff together

Especially land rovers

 V8 or else ...

When I did this job I found the hardest part was removing the ball joint, I had to use a huge ball joint splitter!!

Have you been lowering to access height whilst at a standstill?

Me?

No.

David

Trommel

why would that be an issue. the loads on the ball joints at standstill when lowering will not be near as much as the loads on them when cornering or hitting bumps at speed. V8 or else ...

All done, not a bad job actually, about 3-4 hours inc lunch and coffee stops!

Fisha's thread and pics make a full write up superfluous, many thanks.

Here are my edited high-lights.

You will need a good breaker bar. The bolts a very tight, and quite large (21mm AF). 18" bar about a minimum.

Good ball joint splitters a must. One of mine was unfeasibly tight. Hats off again to Fisha for originally getting them apart without a splitter.

As mentioned above, removing the calliper is the key to getting decent access to the ball joints.

Removing the bolt through the rear bush is a bit tricky as the bolt hits the plastic wheel arch liner before it can be removed. Managed to temporarily bend the liner out of the way without removing it.

I got lucky that the two torxs headed bolts came out without incident. However removing that ball joint from the hub was a complete bitch, and the worst part of the job. Little option but to beat the thing into submission from the top using a substantial (approximate 15mm dia) punch and the largest hammer I could comfortably swing. Still took probably half an hour to get the joint out.

Anti-roll bar links completely trivial in comparison. The originals have an 18mm AF anti-rotation flat on the back. The replacement OEM Moog parts have a 17mm flat.

Now the bad news.

Clunk from the nearside remains.

As a reminder, both nearside arms, bushes and ball joints changed. Both A/R links changed. Offside lower arm changed. Ball joint on steering arm Not changed, but no play in steering, and no clonk when oscillating the wheel.

Starting to point to my original suspicion, that the clonk Is in the strut, after all.

If Ducky Dan picks this up, can you get anywhere near Islands price for an OEM strut (or 2) for a 2005 S/C?

Still need to understand if I can change the strut without access to any diagnostic kit.

Thanks for all the contributions so far.

David

David,
You are mirroring the problems I'm having. Changed every feasible ball joint, bush and link in the front and still my suspension knocks.
Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and buy new struts too.

Quote:

Still need to understand if I can change the strut without access to any diagnostic kit.

You can, as long as your Air Susp ECU doesn't hard code on you.

Seeing as you don't have any leaks / faults with the Air Susp at present (?) I would suggest you get the car jacked up and supported on axle stands both sides, then disconnect the battery, then depressurise the front end, replace struts, then reconnect battery. You will need to do a lock to lock to clear the steering angle sensor faults. Important thing is to get air back into the struts before you lower back onto the wheels.

You may wish to just do one side at a time following the same.

See wiki for photo howto.

However, you may still need to calibrate the suspension because of the new airbags, I had @ 1" extra height due to the new struts I fitted before calibration. Do some measurements of bottom of wheel rim to wing before you start to see what changes. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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Joe,

Found your write ups now, good work and many thanks. Answers my questions about depressurisation.

Richcl, nice (!) to hear of someone else with the same symptoms. There is not much on the net about people changing struts to cure a knock, but I think that's where I am heading.

I haven't changed the bushes which hold the A/R bar to the sub frame. These is no movement in them, all the bolts are tight so nothing to indicate they might be the problem, but they are much cheaper than the strut, and are probably the only other suspect now. Have yours been changed?

David

might sound obvious but have you checked to see if the battery is secure ...

Ooh, good shout.

Just rushed out to check and there IS some movement in the battery.

Will get it clamped right down and report back.

I don't think it is the battery, the clonk sounds really heavy but certainly worth checking.

You do of course realise if it does turn out to be a loose battery I will still go ahead and post about changing the strut anyway, just to save face....

David

ARB bushes look fine. I've had car on "shaker" pad, pulls the suspension in all directions and could see no movement or play anywhere

Passed MOT as well. I had a similar noise on my Classic Range Rover, that was a shock absorber lower mount that had come loose.

It's a pain, and is dulling the enjoyment of the car.