Hi all

Long time Landy person, pretty much all models at some point but always fancied a late tdv8 4.4 L322 and eventually found a superficially good one in Baltic Blue, 133k but pretty clean. Very keen tinkerer and happy to tackle jobs myself and done some biggy's including Disco 3 body off engine changes and such like so happy to get fired in, just want to get some pointers on what I have across on my L322 that I bought in December and has been my daily.

Firstly I have noticed a clonk clonk noise which sure can feel through my arm on centre console. It only really seems to do when turning right whilst pulling away at a junction and otherwise silent and clonk free even when giving it some beans. I am thinking prop or prop bearing possibly, read some posts but was hoping someone has experienced this before and can tell me if my thinking is correct and also, is it whole prop, just bearing or what is the collective experience on this.

Also, it keeps moaning about spare tyre pressure and to check it and another tyre warning about low loads setting on spare or something. Checked spare and iirc its at like 40, so am unsure what its meaning.

And lastly I have an oil leak, seems to be coming down either side round about bulkhead and onto very rear of undertray, is this oil cooler I am sure I have read about? and is there a how to for doing it if people think it mat be that, or is it something else. Can see much from top but only really took engine cover off. Will try add some pics to see if that helps. Added some photos from each side and middle plus undertray. Coming down both side and anti roll bar covered

Any help hugely appreciated, know landys but these are new to me so dont up to speed with issues. Really like it though so planning to keep a while, no rust either and clean for age and miles.

Thanks in advance all

Also, going to collect up bits for full service. But if I keep eye on oil level and coolant is it fine to continue to use it till have everything I need to fix and service as its my daily, thanks

Welcome.

I’d say that’s def oil cooler. It’s where mine was leaking. If left too long the oil gets in the coolant. Also the cooler could have warped so won’t be fixed by just doing seals.

Not sure on other bits….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

That’s the worst I’ve seen for sure. Oil cooler looks to be the top culprit  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I have order the two wee seal the BS611 ones, will start there as cheap, likely?

Any pointers on my other two issues, many thanks

Rear Propshaft Bearing - they don't last that long I am afraid - sorry

I have just bought one of these JXB driveshaft carrier upgrades, pretty pricey though !

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic69739...re+bearing

UK Supplier - Darkside Developments

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/pro...-0-v8.html


other threads on the bearing

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic62227...+propshaft

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic58980...re+bearing

So I have got the vitron seals for pipe, but is the recommendation to do the oil cooler at same time or just try oil pipe seals since can be done quicker, whats the general consensus. I was planning to do a full service anyway, so am I best just getting cooler and just doing it for peace of mind.

Checked oil level and it said underfilled so added a litre I had, then gauge was saying add 1.5 litre which I did not have to hand. Thought it would be ok, went for 20 mins spin. Then parked in same spot and left for ten minutes. At first said unavailable if I recall correctly so did the bonnet open and cruise cancel button twice trick and it said oil Ok and showing one mark below full. Can someone tell me where my oil is actually at. Hate these dash gauges, what the hell was wrong with a dipstick, same with EPB! lol

Found setting in dash for TPMS to be set to heavy or something but it still moaning to check spare tyre pressure. sensor knackered on spare?

Still got the clonk when turning right at slow speed, sure can feel it through left arm on centre console but is there conclusive way to test the bearing, read the suggested threads but they seem to have a drone, mine does not drone, just a light thumping on right hand turns at slow speeds.

Was looking to buy the GAP IID, its generally the older landies I work on so guessing I am best with G3 rather than G4 or am I better going for long term and getting the later version

Sorry for so much questions, just wanting to get up to speed on this wagon as tend to keep them for long time

Many thanks all

It’s def oil cooler. Amount of oil would not come out of the pipe seals, but good practice to do those whilst you are at it.

Oil will be in the V and running down back of engine.

If you take the cover off the engine I think you might be able to get a pic of the pipe seals with your phone or use endoscope to check what they are like.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Check oil when cold. Should be a couple of notches above mid way. Anymore and will show overfilled when not. Best way to check I’ve found  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Do the oil cooler. New cooler and seals etc. Do the Viton ones at same time.
I bet there’s oil swilling in the V  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Thanks, am thinking I would just be worrying about it, where is best to get it and do I need genuine one? I took pollen filler out at scuttle at had a nosey down back with mirror, there is defo oil around and on that pipe but think there was semi dry oil on cooler at front end opposite side from pipe and also same on top of cooler so guessing safe to assume between your experience and what I am seeing that best to change cooler, thanks

What brand oil cooler recommended. Also anywhere do good service kit of filters etc and I reckon I will get 20l Smith & Allan Momentum C1 F 5W-30 - Engine Oil, sure seen that recommended.

Probably do coolant whilst at it. I see the water pipe elbow that goes into cooler can be problematic, does it always leak after being disturbed or usually ok, just wondering if I should get it or usually ok

Thanks

Last edited by diabloam on 15th Feb 2025 8:31pm. Edited 1 time in total

Nissens is fine from site sponsor Advanced Factors. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

will go for that
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr022895...0-988142-p

ordered oil, just got the 20l

assume there no oil filter in it but can get service pack

When changing the oil cooler assy, as well as the 2 rear pipe oil seals you should also change the water feed O ring on the right side of the cooler as you face the car, it's a push fit right angle connector and the original O ring will be squared and hard when you remove that plug and will just leak coolant if you don't change it.

18mm x 2.5mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141455807142?var=441967645571

I didn't change the lower gaskets on my cooler even though I did buy new ones. The Nissen unit came with one already fitted, some say do the lower plate ones as well but I had no leaking there, but I didn't bother and no leaks now.

I think all told about 3 hours and there are some very good guides on this site. Don't tip the cooler when you remove it or you'll have oil everywhere, the unit doesn't empty itself, lift and drop into a bucket.

A. Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster