looks good to me RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Thanks Knares,

So here's what I've checked/Replaced:

Servotronic valve checked for operation and replaced with a good used part anyway.

BCM checked for operation and replaced with a good used part anyway.

7v output from BCM to servotronic valve checked with multi meter.

Continuity of wiring to servotronic valve checked.

Pump and high pressure line replaced, current pump outting 1750-1800 psi on deadhead test.

Lock to lock pressure tests on rack, 1750 psi each direction. No internal leak in steering rack.

Fresh genuine LR cold climate psi fluid

New fluid reservoir

Entire system checked for leaks, none detected.

Track rod ends checked for tightness, binding. Can be moved by thumb.

Hubs movement checked with track rod ends disconnected, both wheels off in air.
Some stiffness noted on both sides but able to be overcome by hand (should I revisit this?!)

Lower steering column shaft removed, both UJs easy to move by hand, lower UJ a little stiffer but able to moved by thumb.

Collapsible section of shaft was stiff, cleaned and re greased now moving fine.

Obvious things like tyre pressures etc checked.

Any further ideas or input from anyone please?

BCM checked for operation and replaced with a good used part anyway.
did you need to get it programed RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

No, no programming required in my case Knares, I bought one from an identical spec car.

All I had to do was plug it in and re sync my remote key fob.

i replaced the BCU with one i bought off a car the same year, it was an earlier model, every thing seemed to work, and other things that haven't worked since i bought the car.
i ordered one with the proper part no from the UK and installed it, everything seems to work but some things work different.
the main things that have worked, the power steering, the door locks, the right passenger window, all good for ten days now RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Excellent work Knares!

Glad youve got it sorted out.

The things that work different can be programmed by diagnostics, I get the feeling GAP IID can do it but not 100% sure.

With mine I've decided to revisit the the front end suspension, there was some resistance when turning the knuckles by hand with track rod ends disconnected.

I wasn't sure at the time if this was due the to the anti roll bar still being connected (even though the car was jacked up at both sides taking force off the bar)

I will jack it up next weekend, disconnect track rod ends and anti roll bar links from the strut and then jack under the control arm to bring the knuckle up to 'standard' height.

I will then test the knuckles again by hand for resistance.

This is the only thing I have left which I can double check.

Just a thought, and I'm not sure if you've already mentioned this, but have you driven a car that is known to feel ok by it's owner as a comparison (not just what you remember from previous cars)? also, might be worth someone whose car feels ok to them having a drive of yours to see what they think. Back to back comparison. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

I have when trying to diagnose the previous cars RVbush but not with this one.

I'd be up for that if someone has an 06-09 TDV8 in Derbyshire.

It's a mixed bag though as it all comes down to an individuals perception.

Ive had another forum member try the steering on this one at idle and from memory yes he did think it was heavier than expected but he also thought someone who hadn't driven an RR before wouldn't know.

(We didn't have time for him to drive my car)

So the temperatures have dropped again in my area (-2 this morning) and the steering has gotten a bit lighter/easier again.

This seems quite repeatable... thought I'd mention it incase it helps anyone think of any suggestions.

Also I don't think it's because the road is icy due to cold and reducing friction.

I'm driving on heavily gritted country and main roads.

Ok got it up in the air again and tried turning the hubs left and right at full droop and jacked up under lower control arm to ride height. (Anti roll bar link and track rod ends disconnected!)

There is resistance at full droop but they are turnable.

When jacked up to ride height using the LCA to raise i cant turn the hub almost at all.

Please if anyone has any feedback let me know.

Videos below:

https://youtube.com/shorts/BgHLesuzYXU?si=lIJL0u-KtWJeQ_es

https://youtube.com/shorts/_TAahpVvuX4?si=H-BeEN-Cbk9NMpXE

i did replace a airbag recently, but i didn't take notice of anything.
guessing, i would think it wanting to spring back to the middle position normal.
i cant think why it would be any different when its jacked up, seems iffy to me.
just doesn't sound right, but i don't know
top bearing, lower bearing??? RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

I have a theory I'm mulling over at the minute.

Is the lower ball joint in the straight arm (the one the height sensor attaches to) binding when loaded (i.e weight of the car on it or front me jacking up the suspension to ride height from underneath the arm)

What I can't figure out is how it could be the same on both n/s and o/s unless someone's fitted a pair of cheap nasty arms in the past?

New lower control arms with integral ball joints fitted today.

Sorted a small knocking noise on the front but made no difference to the steering sadly.

I am really running out of options here.

Could it be the bearing at the top of the strut? I've checked them and them seem to rotate freely.

Do the ball joints bolted into the hub effect the steering? I can make these move by twisting the lower arm connected to them.

Could someone have messed with the adjustment on the steering rack trying to take out play? I've had a good look and the rack appears original and untouched...

Could a bad alignment effect steering at parking and driving speeds?

Any help, any suggestions, anything greatly appreciated...

i wonder if the steering rack is partly seized RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar