Have just done this today and it is relatively straightforward.
Mine is a 2012 and has the rivets which I will replace.
They seem like a tight fit but it is possible for the subframe to move up and down on the bush.
I used the Meyle HD bushes which fit fine.
As has been said before a 24mm ratchet spanner is a big help.
The only tip I have to add is that if the bushes are stiff coming out rather than stress the tool just apply some heat to the bush housing and this helps reduce the friction.
Glad I did mine as they were starting to debond from the metal core.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Has anyone had a good experience of a garage that could do a good and reasonable job, as my 2006 FFRR is mainly strong and well worth preserving, but having read all your excellent posts, and being realistic about my limited time, space, and skill, any recommendations on a garage that could get my RR back end returned to full operating capability would be hugely appreciated please? Noted earlier comments re EBay subframes costs too if I need to go that far, as have some frame welding a couple of years ago, so the rots sadly started Current wheels:
2006 RR S/C (+ chipped + Bespoke S/S Sports plus exhaust)
1985 Defender with V8 4.2l conversion
2012 Aston Martin DBS Volante

I’ve just been quoted £3,000 plus VAT by Safari Engineering at Eversley…
I’m not sure if I’m confident enough to start heavy engineering in my garage under axle stands… if I muck it up I either break the car or kill myself! 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten

not diyable for everybody but 3k is taking the absolute .

are they sure they've quoted for the right job? Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

In fairness that is to include the annual service and a couple of brake pipes (although I need to query that too as I only did them in Feb 2022 so surely they should last longer than two years?) and they are saying it's a sub-frame off job. 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten

I dunno then, to me it's still a lot unless LR parts are expensive af. I know the pipe and it is awkward but dropping the subframe if your a professional shop isn't that hard Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Cost of parts including new bolts and washers was around 950 euros through my garage. Labor another 600 and another 100 for the special tool. All parts were genuine LR.

So I popped round on Saturday and Dave kindly put my Rangie up on their lift to show me the issues.

1. All four sub-frame bushes need doing (the big ones, they're about £90 a corner so nearly £400 in genuine parts alone for that job assuming nothing else breaks or needs doing when they get it apart).

2. The upper and lower rear knuckle bushes need doing on the off-side - they're £50 a pop from LR as well.

3. Rear near-side brake pipe (the one that sits on top of the arm down to the flexi to the caliper) which seems correct as the off-side was done two years ago and is still fine.

(4. Full service & MoT)

They say that to do the bushing jobs properly they would take the sub-frame down and it's labour costs that creep up there for everything that is seized etc.
 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten

if they are dropping the subframe fully, it maybe worth changing all the bushings back there.

ie all the control arms, track rod arms, wheel bearings etc etc.

but that'll certainly drive up the cost, depends how much you wanna go into this really and how long you plan to keep car. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

My thoughts exactly - I think if that is their plan it will turn into one of those "while you're there..." situations.

Anything else I should be thinking of please? (I know this is digressing from the topic a little, but hopefully usefully so for anyone else looking at this issue) 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten

subframes are prone to rusting and diffs could do with rebuilding. but thats instantly turning into a massive job.

theres also lots of options for the subframe in terms of powder coating, rust treatment etc etc

dhallworth's thread covered it all pretty well

also if the exhaust is off and the subframe is down, you want to take off any surface rust and treat that area.

so like i said, it can turn into a massive job quickly, a lot easier to deal with if its being DIYed because mechanics get super expensive quick. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Thanks again mgrover - I just wish I did have the confidence to DIY it.

Unfortunately, once brakes are coming off to get to the knuckle bushes etc. we're into territory where the safety risks of me getting stuff wrong are just not worth the cost saving. (Not to mention the cost of the inevitable new tools which always seem to be required on anything but the simplest jobs on LR products!) 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten