Sorry to ressurrect, but saves a new thread.

If you drain / fill twice, do you have to do anything diagnostics wise afterwards, or can you get away with just the refill ?

I have an IID tool … just not bothered swapping it over to the L405 yet, but will do so if needed for the transfer case fill. V8 or else ...

Yes, you need to use the IID tool. Funnily enough, I did a double flush on mine today followed by a re-calibration of the transfer case motor and clutch using the IID tool. It's simple enough to do. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Thanks, I’ll sort out the tool soon then. V8 or else ...

I’ve recently done a double flush on my L405 transfer case and until recently I thought it had sorted the low speed judder but it hasn’t, I guess I need to do the re-calibration but I don’t have an iid, is it possible to do it with a icarsoft tool?

Was it possible with iCarSoft?

Its not possible with icarsoft

Thanks Col. I upgraded my diagnostics tool but unfortunately the double flush and calibration has not cured the issue.

Does anyone know what causes the judder within the transfer box? Is something wearing/slipping as a result? And would that mean if the judder is ignored for an extended period would a replacement transfer box be required eventually? The reason I ask, when I purchased the car it was juddering when I drove away so it could have been like this for a few thousand miles….

I’m now having to work through process of elimination and I assume a replacement transfer box will be next on the list, having seen the earlier post 4yo 35k miles

Interesting read. I get a judder on a tight turn between 0-5mph. I assume it's my NSR driveshaft.

It's got full MD history, so my assumption is they would have changed the fluids already, but worth a try. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi Gary, yes similar symptoms for me too only low speeds, it sounds exactly like a knackered driveshaft/CV. I initially thought rear differential due to symptoms but then stumbled on this thread. I too have full MD history (MY19 50k) but the transfer box fluid doesn’t appear to have made it on their service list.

It’s worth a go with the double flush initially as it’s an easy DIY or low cost garage service if you don’t have a diagnostics tool. To save a few quid initially I used the Ravenol TF-0870 IYK500010 for the double flush, as that didn’t help the local LR specialist claimed it had to be OEM IYK500010, but that made no difference either.

I ended up having mine completely rebuilt. New clutches, new bearings, new chain, new solenoid. 4 months on and it's still alright. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.... Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Thanks Kev! I had literally just ordered the Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix after reading your other post doh

How much did the rebuild cost if you don’t mind me asking? And was that with you taking the transfer box off and leaving it with them?

Yeah it sorted it for me for about 12 months the first time I used it. Then when it came back, I did another double flush and put another tube of Dr Tranny in. It lasted about a month or so and at that point, I had to bite the bullet and take it somewhere. The rebuild was about £1300ish all in including removing and refitting to the vehicle.

JPAT are the no 1 for supply of the components for the DD295 boxes and they recommended two places to me: Dunnings Automatics in Weymouth and Bristol Transmissions. I ended up using Dunnings as they are closer to me and cannot fault them. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

I think I'll start with my part-time mechanic hat on. Start with a ramp inspection of the driveshafts and centre propshaft bearing then go from there. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

same problem for me, My last post

Just an update on the clonking from the transmission,

I have the same problem, MD did a double flush on the rear diff, but no joy they then changed the rear diff, under warranty, which was on backorder for six weeks so I was given a hire car as a replacement (Warranty paid)
I have been driving around with the JLR tec to pinpoint the problem.

So even after the rear diff was changed the problem is still there! the car was then booked in to have the rear driveshafts replaced, It was booked in for 3 days.

They then decided to flush the transfer case and BLACk oil came out also do a software update, and not change the rear driveshafts

It has reduced the clocking but not completely I can still feel it, so I will ask for another flush of the Transfer case oil. as they seem to be on to something. 2017 SDV8 4.4 silicon silver AB
2012 TDV8 4.4 Stornaway Grey AB
2011 TDV8 4.4 Buckingham Blue
2012 VW V6 3.0 Tougreg

I know this is needle in a haystack territory, but....does this video sound like the transfer box noise you are all reporting?

https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/092nHHF...GH012448_S

Straight line or any significant amount of steering lock, it's completely silent. Low speeds <20mph and around 30° of steering lock is when I hear the loud knocking. I tried the GoPro closer to the transfer box for comparison, but there was too much ambient engine noise.