Hello all,

First of all sorry if my post is in wrong location on forum.
I have BMW 540i with 4.4 M62B44TU with 5hp24. I found some topics about rebuild this gearbox on this forum so I decided put this post here.

I tried rebuild my 5hp24 gearbox. After rebuild no have second gear. The gearbox go though first gear next tried put second gear but it is still first gear and switch to 3nd gear. And one time allowed shift like this. After slow and park to 0km/h and move appears TRANSFAIL. and gearbox going to failure mode. After engine off and on failure mode disappears.
When I put 2nd gear in manual mode then it is still first gear.. And when I'm going to start accelerating then gearbox going to failure mode.
After my rebuild gearbox goes well but without 2nd gear..

I changed:
-All seals and gaskets
-forward clutch
-brass pans
-filter oil
-Lower front valve body
-upper valve body
-60% new sliding pistons and springs
-main plate gasket

I checked:
- oil pipes - any damage
- all solenoids - all 100% working
- mechatronics tightness under pressure
- I blew 2,5bar into clutch "E" and all friction discs clench

For my opinion it could be something with upper valve body or something in general with mechatronics or eletric problem..

Please help me.. please give me a lead, where can i search. For now I drive on the manual mode and I switch from 1 to 3 and I don't have any faliure mode..

if you do a search on the topics here for your gearbox type, and look out for a member called RRPhill, you will find lots of advice from him - he is the top man for this gearbox but I think he may have retired.

Yes i saw.. I hope not. But maybe someone else had this problem.

Did you remove/replace the tiny nylon check balls within the valve body? There are I think two, and sometimes these wear and jam, and in my case, allow blow-by, and a lazy second gear, ie not full drive, or it might be stuck, and not allowing any drive… found within the valve body, maybe check these. There are also a couple of tiny removable stop-ends too. Check up on this subject.

My experience was with a 5hp70, but I think they are in the 5hp40 too.

Smyfi96 wrote:

- I blew 2,5bar into clutch "E" and all friction discs clench

Where was the air pressure applied? Was it at the duct plate interface on the main case, shown in the photo?



It’s best to check it here so that the sealing of the steel pipe is checked as well. New pipes are slightly oversized and have to be hammered into place, thereby ensuring a good seal. Re-used pipes can leak or become disconnected as they're no longer an interference fit.



Phil

Nice to see you RRPhil.
I appiled air pressure into the hole from oil pipe from second picture. The pipe seemed to sit well in the hole.
To be honest i don't knew about this method from first picture. I will definitely check it out!

Please if you have something else idea what can i check because I have time only at weekend. And I would like to test some ideas.

At this weekend I want test Case Connector Setting - resistance - (In some topic with your participation i found this.)
At the next weekend I will buy oil and I will check this.
Maybe I will buy the new oil pipe. I spend a lot of money for this gearbox 100dolars more it doesn't matter.

RRPhil
This weekend I measured the resistance at the transmission ECU under the bonnet.
EDS 1 - 6.9Ω
EDS 2 - 6.6-6.7Ω
EDS 3 - 7.1-7.2Ω
EDS 4 - 6.4-6.5Ω
EDS 5 - 6.4-6.5Ω

At this topic (https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post680189.html) you mentioned that should be 5.8-6.0Ω.
But at docu from ATSG I found info about 6.2 - 7.8 Ω is correct.

In the next weekend I will try check that oil pipe about you mentioned.
Please tell me, what else can i check if I'll remove oil pan and unscrew mechatronics. I checked direction of slide pistons and everything was ok.
Maybe should i check location of the main gasket and intermediate plate? - 1058 327 045 Gasket, 1058 327 070 Intermediate Sheet - (disassemble and reassemble)
I don't changed 1058 327 066 Intermediate Sheet it possible that here problem is?

Thanks

You say that you rebuilt the transmission, and after the rebuild there was no 2nd gear. Did 2nd gear work before you rebuilt it, or is that the reason you stripped the transmission down in the first place?

Phil

I rebuilt transsmision because my clutch A has broken at the retaining ring and I lost drive to forward totally. (only in faliure mode).
Firstly I rebiult only mechanical without mechatronics. (Mechatronics only cleaned) I changed all seals and gaskets, friction discs, brass sockets. And I fill new oil, new filter and I put gearbox to my car.
After that I went for a drive and I ride - first gear - second gear - and third gear and when gearbox put third gear something goes wrong and the wheels was blocked and gearbox reduce to second gear.
And it was information to me that maybe something had gone wrong with my rebiult.
I removed gearbox once again and i was checked one more time (mechanic part). I wasn't see anything. I put gearbox to the car and the same problem. No third gear.
So I removed mechatronics and I checked more precisely. I found cracked upper valve body, so I bought the new. I found wiped out hole for general pressure valve, so i bought new lower front valvebody. I bought 60% new springs and valves because not everything I could get. I bought new gasket and intermediate plate. I put it together and put to the car. And I went for a drive again. And now I noted that gearbox shifts from first gear to third.. One time. After that gearbox goes to faliure mode. And now I tring find the solution why after rebuilt mechatronics I lost second gear totaly.

I will check your proposal about oil pipe. Seems credible. Maybe you have an idea where I made a mistake or what should still be checked. I spent a lot of time with this topic and I can't give up!

Hello,

I changed oil pipe for new. But still nothing was changed.. Still doesn't have second gear.
I saw oil in the oil pipe, and in the valvebody in canal which oil goes to oil pipe. So it looks that oil is flowing but do not has enough pressure to second gear works. This problem has occured after my rebiult valvebody.
I changed valve and springs. I put my old valve and spring because I saw small changes between this. Spring was different also.
Some pictures below.

https://zapodaj.net/plik-zB7Xmtf5VJ

https://zapodaj.net/plik-sFgFzg5Vc4

https://zapodaj.net/plik-OBK5o1e9GD

Maybe I need deleted adaptation?

@EDIT

Where in transsmision is this throttling valve? Maybe can I set the time to fill the "E" Break?
https://zapodaj.net/plik-3ZrVzkJoL0

The one-way orifice for the E-clutch is the one identified in the diagram below as ‘01’ 27.024

Click image to enlarge

Smyfi96 wrote:

I changed valve and springs. I put my old valve and spring because I saw small changes between this. Spring was different also.
https://zapodaj.net/plik-OBK5o1e9GD

I’m not sure if that’s the KV-E spool that you’ve identified but, if it is, it’s important to note that there are three different spools, depending on the transmission model number.



Could you read off the last three digits of the model number from the green ID plate rivetted to the casing, and also the three digit number etched into the lower rear valve block?





Phil

Thank You for answer.
As for the position of the KV-E and HV-E valves, I am 100% sure that they are correctly set. I checked it about six times.

About The one-way orifice I have only picture what it be before rebuilt.. but I don't take a foto after.. So I think I need one more time check this. Maybe some goes wrong with this..

I have question for you. What about EDS 5? Because I saw from documentation. What is "-*", "*-"? Is it possible that the computer is not giving enough current making the pressure on EDS 5 insufficient?

https://zapodaj.net/plik-mm9VXKpHUg

https://zapodaj.net/plik-9cnSYOFYXS

https://zapodaj.net/plik-j0I6xu2psf

I have numer: 1058 000021

https://zapodaj.net/plik-lDxJ9e1hLo

About three digit number etched into the lower rear valve block: Orginaly was: 328 But now is 350. Idk why.

https://zapodaj.net/plik-BaU8UZil2Z

Your transmission was manufactured on 31st August 2000 so it would originally have had a 1058 198 328 (i.e. ‘328’) valve body assembly. Interesting that someone appears to have updated it to a ‘350’ unit. Can you remember which type of EDS 5 damper was installed in the duct plate i.e. either 0501 314 645 or 1068 227 039 (see photo below)? Did you replace this damper, because the earlier type (0501 314 645) was known to rupture and allow the EDS 5 pressure to escape, thereby affecting operation of the E-clutch. Hence it was replaced by the improved design.



I very much doubt that the one-way restriction orifice would prevent the E-clutch from operating, even if it were missing. You’d just get a harsher engagement.

You could certainly try swapping EDS 5 with one of the other black-capped solenoids, to see if the problem moved to a different gear.