@AlanM3:

That’s fine (and actually the oil I’m currently using), but what CaymanBlack says is also true. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Christian & Vera are running 5W30 in the queen. He use 5W40 in the 2.7 and 3.0.

Reference
?si=97UOECqTyJ2UZuhE
29:23

As C3 spec is suitable for engines with EGR/DPF, I wonder how much more quickly my DPF will clog using it vs. C1 or C4, bearing in mind I never ever do journeys of less than thirty miles in either my 3.6 TDV8 or the new-to-me SDV8. Anything shorter distance is delegated to the petrol wheels!
Anyhoo, I am going with full ester synth 5W40 C3 in the SDV so no doubt I’ll find out! 2018 L405 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2010 L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue SE, 171000 miles and counting….

remote-trash wrote:

Christian & Vera are running 5W30 in the queen. He use 5W40 in the 2.7 and 3.0.

Looks like Christian & Vera have gone and done it - they’re running 5W40 C3 in the Queen.

The oil change and using the 5W40 comes around 16min40

They’ve chosen the Castrol Magnatec 5W40 DPF, spec sheet here
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionP...cr7mnv.pdf

This is particularly interesting as the Sulphated Ash in an ACEA C3 oil is 0.8% and thus higher than the 0.5% in C1 and C4. I’m not sure if this makes it a mid-SAPS rather than low-SAPS, but I’m pretty sure Christian is well aware of this and knows exactly what he’s doing. I’m certain he’s not gutted his DPF as can only imagine TUV would pick that up. I’m also pretty convinced he knows more than most about ACEA specs and the various compromises each variant offers.

So, this begs the question: is 5W40 C3 a suitable oil for the 4.4TDV8 & SDV8 engines that spec 5W30 C1?

Discuss… Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

It depends on the age of your ”Queen” - Christian and Vera’s is pre-DPF.

If you have DPF/Adblue, “Low SAPS” C1 should NOT be replaced by “Mid SAPS” C2/C3, only by “Low SAPS” C4 5W40. Your DPF will block up much faster otherwise, and God knows, even with C1, it fills up pretty quickly on short trips, agreed?

Hen’s teeth.

I found a supplier, but it seemed non-one was interested on here at £100/20L.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Sorry Gremlin, but I think you’re mistaking the Queen (Christian’s L405) for their D3.

The video shows them servicing their early MY L405 SDV8 with Castrol Magnatec 5W40 DPF. The oil spec is C3. The car is a Euro 5, so with DPF but no Ad Blue. I’m interested in this as my L322 is the same engine so am following this topic closely as I’m considering doing the same.

Christian really does know what he’s doing and there’s no way he’d risk doing something that would harm his Queen, so all I’m saying is that maybe C3 isn’t the worst compromise vs 5W30 C1? Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

I know the difference between the D3 & L405 of course; I should have said “pre Euro 6”, not pre DPF.
There are important differences in the DPF architecture between Euro 5 cars (the Queen) and Euro 6.
So mid-SAPS C2/C3 isn’t fine to use in Euro 6 engnes, you need to use C1 or C4, and since C1 5W40 is unobtanium, it has to be C4 5W40 if you prefer to use a slightly higher viscosity as your engine ages for example.

This is interesting reading:

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Md-Wa...an2015.pdf

 “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks for this.

I'm also on the lookout for 5W40 low SAPS oil having just changed from a SDV8 to a SDV6 ss I believe the slightly thicker oil might be better for protecting against the crank/bearing problems in the V6 engine.

I've used Smith & Allan Momentum 5W30 C1F in my 2013 SDV8 for some time, but they don't have a low SAPS 5W40 to the same spec, so currently sticking with the C1F as I think the DPF protection is more important than the viscosity. Current:
- 2017 L405 3.0 V6 Autobiography
Sold:
- 2013 L405 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
- 2004 L322 4.4 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 2002 L322 4.4 HSE (having fixed timing chain guides)
- 2000 P38 4.6 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 1981 2-door In-Vogue
- 1980 Ex-Army SIII LWB
- 1976 SIII LWB
- 1968 SIIA
Stripped for parts:
- 2003 L322 4.4 Vogue

I emailed S&A to enquire about a C4 5W40 some time ago, but they didn’t respond. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

I know it;s a Toyota and they never brake down or do they but worth a look at?

To add to your theory. we never get our cars hot by sitting on the M25 for a couple of hours. all about temperature

 2017 SDV8 4.4 silicon silver AB
2012 TDV8 4.4 Stornaway Grey AB
2011 TDV8 4.4 Buckingham Blue
2012 VW V6 3.0 Tougreg

For V6 owners worried about DPF's filling with ash more quickly on mid-SAPS oil it's worth noting that there are many companies out there that will remove your DPF and do a back flush clean on it to remove the ash and return it to as new performance for not that much money (Typicaly less than £500) 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I am running Castrol Magnatec 5W40 C3 DPF oil and I have no measurable difference in regens/DPF soot etc as monitored on my GAP tool. I am hoping that I do have improved engine protection however - time will tell. Allowing for placebo effect, the engine does seem to run smoother/quieter.

JLR specified the oil based on meeting emissions targets rather than providing the best protection for the engine.

I am working on the basis that I would rather spend £500 on a DPF clean etc than £15,000 on a failed crankshaft engine rebuild. In engineering terms, I have have moved the designed point of failure (potentially).

@Alex1976,
Can the GAP tool measure ash volume in the DPF? As this is the most important difference between the oils, and what really needs to be monitored. Ash cannot be burnt off during regens as its incombustible, and ultimately what eventually blocks the DPF, no matter how successful the regens. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

No way of knowing the ash level but the car will throw a code when there is not enough capacity left. You can also check the pressure differential voltage and reference it with the workshop test procedure under different loads and rpm's AFAIK the upper limit is 1.5v. Mine goes to 2.5v with hard acceleration so I'm getting mine cleaned now it's getting near 180k miles. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)