Yes, mine has for the last 3 years.

Question?
Are the “Doom and Gloom “ merchants going to pay for your vehicle to be repaired when it’s finally been choked to death by the EGR?
Diesel engines have worked fine for years without an EGR, and they rarely fail an MoT on emissions.
EGR delete on its own is a waste of time and money in my opinion.
It needs to be blanked off.
Once blanked off, it will start “breathing” again.
It will idle better.
It will run better.
It will look after the oil better
Or will be better.
Now should you decide to tell the MOT garage, then they’ll fail it.
But, mindful that most people are pretty reserved when it comes to such clandestine acts…..
Personally….
I think you may enjoy it more!
I had the speed limiters removed off mine, and after the remap, it flies!!
Queue…..
Large smiles

Im not sure the EGR is part of the MOT is it?

And a 3.6 doesn't have a DPF in the UK market...

IF the EGR is seen to be blanked or interfered with, the vehicle will fail the MOT.
3.6 TDV8 does not have a DPF
You don’t have to map out an EGR delete on a 3.6TDV8
You DO have to map out an EGR delete, on a 4.4 TDV8
If you drive a 4.4 normally after an EGR delete, the DPF should be fine.
IF it’s just used for school runs, you’ll need access to an OBD tool to do forced regeneration.

Shaunj69 wrote:

Dont you need the EGR for the regen of the DPF?

If the EGR is blanked off it is effectively closed…. Permanently.
Therefore maximum heat will be directed towards the DPF.
It is the EGR that regulates the temperature, by opening and closing & therefore the carbon build up.

Yes- I did mine at 180k and she’s clicked past the 200k with no probs, definitely runs nicely and doesn’t smoke so I’d recommend it. 2009 (2010 MY) 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography
2007 TDV8 Vogue SE
2005 BMW E63 645ci
2024 Porsche Macan

Benjerbustmills wrote:

IF it’s just used for school runs,you’ll need access to an OBD tool to do forced regeneration.

I have to admit I am 100% ignorant on EGR valves as I dont think I have ever had one give me trouble so may I ask a a few stupid questions?

Why do people not replace the EGR valve unit like you would an oil cooler or alternator or starter motor? Is it a pig of a job? One imagines that these units have an estimated lifespan/mileage span

Second question, does using good or bad fuel or additives make a difference to EGR Valve life does anyone know?

I hope to never see my EGR valve but I do run a 12 year old bus so you never know. Current yokes
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster
2006 Disco 3
Scoobie GT wagon
Mx5 G Ltd
TT S Line
Pajero JDM Exceed

On the 4.4 the part is expensive and difficult to get to but also very reliable so for most peolple it's still working fine at huge milages. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Technically you could replace the EGR’s. But, it’s a pig of a job, and they are not cheap.
It’s what the EGR does to the rest of the system.
There are quite a few videos on it on U Tube, which show the build up of crap in the inlet doughnut, and explain that , the very same build up occurs in the inlet manifolds.
Personally, I use a fuel additive, that helps to decarbonise the “Hot Side” of the turbochargers….
But, I’m led to believe that the only way to sort out the built up crud is to physically remove it!
Take the MAP sensor out and have a look at that. It should give you a good idea of what is going on inside the various intakes.
Get a decent cleaner for the sensor.

There is only one EGR valve on the 4.4. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

This is why I love this forum, the wealth of knowledge is unprecedented. I'll keep filling my 4.4 with dipetane and good fuel and someday Ill do a turbo clean with Revive turbo cleaner and after that drive hard and fast from time to time I guess! Current yokes
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster
2006 Disco 3
Scoobie GT wagon
Mx5 G Ltd
TT S Line
Pajero JDM Exceed