Richie N wrote:

Thanks 👍

My garage can’t give me a date and it may be two weeks before they can fix it. So I’m thinking of doing it myself. Is this a problem on the driveway over a week?

If I disconnect the battery how do I close the tailgate and lock the car and get back in? Will rain get in if I remove the panel under the windscreen?

Why on earth would you do it yourself, surely the supplying dealer is paying for the repairs?

Also, and no offence meant here, but if you needed help diagnosing the issue, are you sure you have the technical skills to carry out this repair yourself? It's a fairly complex procedure requiring the removal of many components just to get to the oil cooler.

I'd imaging that the supplying dealer will gleafully rub their hands together and void any warranty you have with them if you do this repair yourself.

I'd definately look for oil / water mix as well, as mentioned above.

Jon

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

That’s a good question that I have heard many times. Basically, the dealer asked me to drive it back to them, 30 miles around the m25. If they were happy for me to do that I didn’t fancy trusting them to do the repair properly - I wasn’t too keen on my local garage doing it either.

Anyway, it’s nearly completely stripped down. Should finish today. Then the rebuild begins…

I can see why this costs £1k. The rear pipe into the cooler had been leaking previously. It had a bodge done on it with some sealant.

There are always stuck bolts, etc. The one I had trouble with was holding the oil pipe at the rear of the cooler. I had to grind it off without being able to see it. Used my phone to check progress.

Anyway, everything is out now. So time to start cleaning and reassemble. 👍

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Good for you, you clearly have a decent level of competance with the spanners!

Water shouldn't have got into the oil due to the pressure differences, but I would still check for that as it could cause bottom end issues further down the line! If coolant IS in the oil, then to answer your original question, that'd be a good reason to return the car.

It's highly likely that oil has got into the coolant though, as you're probably aware.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Thanks Jon, I’m going to change the oil anyway.

I hate cleaning !!

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At least doing the job yourself you know how it’s been done and no corners have been cut. 10/10 for having a go and taking it on!

Cheers

Its quite rewarding once you start cleaning the parts up. And that's definitely something I wouldn't trust many garages to do properly.

I've ordered a long reach flexible brush for cleaning the intake.

Onwards and upwards. Changed the water pipe on rhs of the cooler, and put new viton o rings in the feed to the rear of the cooler. Cleaned up mating surface and installed new cooler..

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Exquisite looking job there Richie, well done  2017 SDV8 Autobiography

Thanks 👍 it’s slowly getting there.

The bolt that holds the feed pipe at the rear of the cooler has me beat! 🥵 the bolt will not go in and I can’t see the hole. I’ve decided to fit a stud and nut instead.

The only way to see it is with a camera

Where there’s a will. I cancelled my order for some M6 stud screws, and made one out of a cut down bolt. Worked a treat. I recommend fitting a stud before fitting the cooler for anyone doing this - it is much easier.

I did make the stud a little longer than necessary 😆

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Today it was on to a job I was not looking forward to, cleaning the intake!

I did some research and decided to go the oven cleaner route. Made a good start…

Good Job

Have you a decent code reader? a must with these things. I have an Launch CRP919X PRO+ Great bit of kit for a little over £300.

I have about 10 cars in the family and its worth its weight in gold.

As for your full DPF, likely you will find a sensor has failed if you scan. Most common reason for not regenning and slowly blocking the dpf . SDV8

Thanks

Agreed. I do have a reader for previous cars, I need to check whether it works for the RR.

The oven cleaner seems to work a treat. It takes quite a few applications, but very little physical effort