Hi All, my battery is original (having bought my car new in 2017) and I think a few spurious warning light faults that are coming up are as a result of a tired battery. I'm also seeing the engine crank over more times than normal when cold.

The battery supply and install at the stealers is £409 (and weeks away for a booking). I am wondering if I can make this cheaper by installing myself (having looked at the vids online). The only thing I don't have is access to the ECU and I am wondering if I actually need to update the computer with my year model? If not it will be a simply exchange of batteries. Grateful for any advice! 2017 Range Rover Vogue V6 Diesel
2006 Range Rover Vogue V8 Diesel - gone

Loads of info if you use the Search function on here, (which is why your thread has many readers but no posters) but to make it easy for you, watch this:

?feature=shared “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks Gremlin500. Thats the vid I watched which looks piece of cake. Just couldn't work out if it was just the earlier cars that required the ECU to be updated with the reader? Its the software bit that would force me to take to a garage. thanks 2017 Range Rover Vogue V6 Diesel
2006 Range Rover Vogue V8 Diesel - gone

Glenrands can do it for you.
Other specialists around but I won't go anywhere else now!
They'll be busy but will do their best to assist. Mention me  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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thanks Dr Rob! Duckworths can do the battery delivered for £268.95 and the stealer is quoting £305  2017 Range Rover Vogue V6 Diesel
2006 Range Rover Vogue V8 Diesel - gone

#1 rule = avoid all main dealers! Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Agree, I'm so fed up with my local ones. So many screw ups 2017 Range Rover Vogue V6 Diesel
2006 Range Rover Vogue V8 Diesel - gone

my local dealer wanted £1k to replace and code both batteries, a local indy was half that First time FFRR owner

Hi Jase,

Another way to look at it, is for similar outlay DIY will get you a “free” iCarsoft LRV3 tool (£150)
which you can then use for all sorts of money-saving jobs and diagnostics in future.

Go on, bite the bullet and do it yourself, forum members here will help you through it, and you will gain immense self-satisfaction at the same time  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Jase71 wrote:

Agree, I'm so fed up with my local ones. So many screw ups

Lots of good independents around here...we are lucky! Glenrands for me all day long though  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I like your thinking. Its frustrating for someone like me who is an engineer to watch something so simple carried out...usually the car comes back marked as an added bonus  2017 Range Rover Vogue V6 Diesel
2006 Range Rover Vogue V8 Diesel - gone

DrRob wrote:

Jase71 wrote:

Agree, I'm so fed up with my local ones. So many screw ups

Lots of good independents around here...we are lucky! Glenrands for me all day long though

Hi Jase, update:

The LRV3 is now £175 on eBay from many sellers, I got mine a year ago for £150 from Germany, where it’s now £219.00 from the same seller. It’s been updated with a raft of new features, suspension reset, ABS pump bleeding, etc. as well as the usual scan for DTC’s and service resets.
About half the cost of an iiD BT tool, but with maybe 80% of the functionality, it’s good value. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

To return to the original OPs question, is it actually necessary to 'do the ECU bit'.

It's apparently required on my D4, but the last time I had to change the battery I was on holiday and my GAPII was buried under loads of gear.
I changed the battery in the car park of the motor factors with the intension of coding it later, but being on holiday never got around to it.
I've seen no ill-effects in the 2yrs since.

What exactly are you “coding” when fitting a new battery?