Rear pipes delivery date keeps getting pushed back, now saying 3rd Oct, we're away till mid December a week after so I hope it turns up soon...  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Oh no, that’s a pain Peter… So much is on back order at the moment! Annoying to say the least!

It sure is, I'm beginning to have withdrawal symptoms......  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Well I went to pick up the rear heater hose/pipe as the ARC pipe still hadn't turned up and it was something that could be done in the meantime...

Got to Duckworths to see our smiling faced Robin who informs me their workshop ordered a rear ARC pipe yonks ago, it's turned up, but now, for whatever reason, they don't want it so would I like it...

Yes please Robin...

So we stopped for coffee and cake on the way home to celebrate....

Got home and treated the rear pipe to the same wash off, scuff up, etch prime then Dinitrol 4941

A few pictures as they come, mostly just bare steel....!!!

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That’s a great result for you!

I wish I could pop in and see Rob, I owe him beers given the amount of time he’s spent helping me out!

Good job on stopping the corrosion and coating all of the new pipes. That’ll be a nicely sorted and well protected car when you’re done!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

With an operating pressure of 180Bar, I wouldn't be using copper pipe or standard compression fittings, there are plenty of options for that size and pressure though.

David, Robins a really nice guy, come down for a trip in your new one...

Phoenix, oh yeah, forgot that, it's only take about 50bar, as you say, lots of options though... Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

We've one in tomorrow with a "hydraulic leak" and red warning on the dash

Called our dealer, front and rear pipes are both available and being delivered tomorrow

Not sure what the delay was with your pipes

10L steel compression through fittings are about £3.50 each, rated to 500Bar. 10mm OD 1.5mm wall steel tube is about £6 a metre. Given the cost and increasing scarcity of supply, I may well 'roll my own' when the time comes - Pete, can I grab the end fittings off you? there only needs to be 150-200mm of tube beyond the fittings to be useful.

Mikey... weird, it was showing it was supposed to be with the distributer tomorrow and with them on the 4th or 5th... it's been put back and back... maybe a new load has come through.... oh well, got them both now, and the heater pipes....

Phoenix... the old pipes are still on, I cut them at the flexi because it was easy to plug the pipes and I wanted to keep the system closed for as long as possible... the end fitting from the flexi to the rear ARB is totally rusted, it's flaking off and doesn't look good.... I'll take them off as carefully as I can but I think it's only the manifold end that are any good....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

That's fine mate, I can always braze some new stubs into the end fittings, I'm thinking of making the ends up ahead of time so if/when the day comes, it'll just be a case of forming some tube to fit and nipping up a few compression couplers.

Some good progress today....

Rear pipe replaced, it passes through the rear nearside running board mounting so we had to remove it, trouble was the Rangie was jacked up on the two post lift on it, I hate doing it, it always seems dodgy to me but drop the Rangie on a transmission jack at that corner till the lift is free of the mount, remove the mount, change the pipe then replace the mount and get it back on the ramp... didn't take long and only wobbled a bit....

Two rear mountings for the ARC pipe had failed so new ones used....

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Cracking job there!
(they're 'ground' connections, not 'earths' )

I've a couple of those bobbins failed on mine, fixed with a wire brush & some Loctite 480.
The problem with getting b@lls-deep with a job like that is, where do you stop? there's always a 'while I'm in there' remedial or preventative job to do wherever you look...

A few points for anybody doing this in future,

The rear subframe really does need to be removed to change the pipes and clean up and treat the corrosion where the steel rear subframe bolts to the aluminium body. Check your rear heater coolant pipes as these need the subframe removing to change as well, the pipe is just over £100 so there is an argument to just change it anyway...

It says in the WM that to replace the front pipe you have to remove the front subframe, well it's not really necessary, the front pipe has two joins in it and if you undo these you can thread the pipe in from different directions around the front subframe, it was a pretty quick and painless job...

If you have side steps, remove them first as the underside sill covers are half underneath the trims on the bottom of the sidesteps, getting the covers off was reasonable easy but getting them back on with the steps in situ is possible but a long and fiddly job....

The front and rear pipes come already fitted with collets and seals so you don't need to buy anything else apart from the possibility of some mountings, which maybe repairable but aren't much money...

Back to mine, both pipes replaced, coolant hose replaced, all bolts either cleaned and reused or new stainless ones used, all installed with Tef Gel to prevent seizing and galling and to stop electrolysis. 1mm silicon sheet used for gaskets, all areas of rust and corrosion cleaned and treated.

Then we get onto bleeding the system..... the Workshop Manual has a 14 page, 35 point section just on bleeding the system, IMHO totally OTT for a hydraulic system. I think the reason is because JLR consider any air in the system could result in reduced handling and subsequently be a safety issue.

Well I filled the reservoir, it took about 3/4 of a ltr, started the engine and the level dropped significantly, I topped it up with another 1/2 ltr and there were significant bubbles in the reservoir.

Nice job there Pete, the ground stud is an annoyance but better now whilst you have good access & time than whilst you're driving at night in the rain...