Update:

The whole starting/non starting is very likely due to supply side issues, thin wire only makes it worse. There is a slight delay in crank which I believe is directly related to SoC.

My theory is around poor supply side with low SoC resulting in poor starter solenoid engagement and eventual failure.

A smaller relay is happy enough with lower current demands for now vs the starter solenoid, but further understanding of the supply side would be the key to long term fix.

Note: I still believe a secondary relay is a good idea as it protects the starter solenoid SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

3 month update since adding a second parallel wire to the existing wire - problem solved, no further starting issues at-all.
Thanks all for information shared - cant beat good old forums for information sharing.

ffrr14 wrote:

Ajmngn wrote:

Ffrr14 - having literally just been in the battery bay junction boxes this eve cleaning all the contacts, I’m curious as to the nylon flange nuts suggestion. Genuine Q, what’s the advantage of those? Why do you think the standard nuts are a weakness of the system? Every day’s a learning day for me on here. TYIA!

I am hoping the Niloc nuts wont come loose vs the standard ones (I have found one loose, likely due to heat and vibration etc)

This is strictly my opinion only

Click image to enlarge

mezo wrote:

3 month update since adding a second parallel wire to the existing wire - problem solved, no further starting issues at-all.
Thanks all for information shared - cant beat good old forums for information sharing.

This is a very interesting thread. I have the dreaded starter solenoid click and am in the process of replacing it. There is another thread where some sites, Opie being one, identify the Late L322 TDV8 4.4's as early L405's. That is another issue.

Attached is a photo of the Solenoid electrodes.

What is the answer to this problem? RR L322 TDV8 4.4 SE 2019 to present
RR L322 TDV8 4.4 - 2016 to present
Discovery 2 TD5 - 2010 to 2016
Discovery 1 - 2000 to 2010

ignore - this is the thread in question

How many hours takes the replacement for the starter motor for the 2011 TDV8 4.4 ?

I would say 3 hours, 1.5 in 1.5 out*
not including the work on the starter.
I bought a dead (solenoid) starter on ebay for cheap and so I had it pre-prepared.
*Likely you'l get some annoying bolts that can add an hour or two worst case. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Well done Greg, now you have got another one to refurbish, ready for your 200k anniversary
Mike.  G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

I got the dreaded click so went about changing the starter. However upon inspection I can see it's a new starter.

Anyway, I didn't want to replace it if the issue was else where. I've tested all the power cables and everything seems ok, however it just won't crank. When I connect the starter directly to the battery the solenoid engages and the motor spins away no problem.

I put a multi meter on the solenoid and I'm getting a reading of around 5-6v. Is this expected on the solenoid or is this reading suggesting too much resistance in the solenoid?

Read back a page or two and see the remedy of a parallel wire for the trigger wire. You can run it temporary, see if it’s clears the fault, then run it in better later on. Somewhere, there is an inherent high resistance connection in the wiring, that no one has yet discovered where.

I have had a click a few times - usually on a cold morning. My battery is a bit low (sits around 12.2v) so will change that, and the car starts when I use the NOCO jump pack (or sometimes after a few attempts, and then starts strongly).

I am going to replace the battery, but in terms of the solutions - do all these problems add up? (Low battery v, higher resistance, and poor contacts)

The parallel wire to lower resistance sounds the easiest solution, just wondering if I would still need to clean up the starter motor as well...

I will fit a few battery soon, though it seems relatively likely it will reoccur at some stage

Quote:

do all these problems add up? (Low battery v, higher resistance, and poor contacts)

Cheers, I will start with a new battery, as it goes fine with the jump pack on, then clean up the starter when summer comes around

[quote="mezo"]Having lack of start with lowish (~12.3v with accessories on) battery - starter and battery changed and was pointed to this thread.







All these mods are for the diesel. I've go the 2007 SC w/ 4.2. But... I have the same issue.. full battery, I get the clicks, particularly in cold weather, then later it will just start no problem.

These same parallel wire (Mezo's solution) worth a try?

Thank you, great thread.