Ok got old one out and only thing i had to cut was the top middle where that siler nutplate is. But i honestly still dont see how you can get new one in without jacking it uo.

So I’ve got an 08. Not quite as big a hole as the 09, but I can copy that shape and trim.

I am having a terrible time getting that 6 way flapper out. That rod won’t release and the vent tube to the driver’s side is blocking the flapper from rotating up. On lhd cars there seems to be less play in that driver’s side tube. Any tips? Do I need to take apart all the stuff around the steering wheel to get access to that rod from the side? I am dubious it will help.

Edit: ok , I got it by twisting it up and to the right as shown. You want to get the metal rod outside of that black tab. You will need to trim the access hole wider first. After that put it back down to its normal position and reach in and pop the rod up and to the left to remove it.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Really regret selling my old L322 so thought it would be a good idea to buy another one. Less than a week into ownership the heater blower started making a noise so after much faffing about trying to get the clam shell like baffles to stay open with the fan off so I could check it for debris through the filter housing, it seems the fan is starting to die. Thought I would be better to change it before it gets worse and starts taking fuses out with it, and how hard can it be to change a heater fan?

Really helpful information here so wanted to say a big thank you.

Couple of bits which might be helpful for somebody:

I had a nightmare removing the drivers side screw on the baffle plate. I found that by cable tying the vent pipework forward and using a smaller Torx bit (T15 I think) I could get enough of an angle on the screw to get it out. Getting it back in wasn't as bad as I expected either.

The old fan was a nightmare to get out as the wiring harness tray was in the way. The new fan had a slightly smaller diameter, maybe 5mm less, so went back in surprisingly easily.

So, I have joined the club and replaced my blower with no cutting at all (although some cutting is needed on vehicles pre 2009).

Many thanks to this thread and Norman's for the guidance and pictures beforehand.

Step by step guide with lots and lots and lots of photos, including a nifty trick for making the removal and fitment of the adjuster rod a 5-second job, on the way soon. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi Gary

I have this job on the list, looking forward to your guide - it looks a bit daunting still.

Regards,

Kevin Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Looking forward to seeing the write up Gary! Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Gary, remind me of the symptoms you were getting please 🙏 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Squeaking (like there was a family of mice) when the fan was running, especially when just starting the car for the day. It was more prominent at temperatures below 10 degrees. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Some photos from the job:

As dis-assembled as it needed to be:



A photo of the new blower in-situ.

Looking forward to seeing the full write up on both jobs now 😀 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I'm doing my 2003 Vogue now.

I started cutting the hole with a hand-held Dremel with a burr bit but it was difficult to get the angle. So I changed to a Dremel that has a remote motor and the hand-held section is cable driven. That was slow and tedious.

Then I had a brainwave. I got out my Weller TCP1 soldering iron and cut the line with the hot tip. Much quicker and neater.



I assume from a couple of earlier pix, that I need to cut off these prongs. I can't see that they are used for anything.

Anyone care to comment?



Like an earlier poster showed, my fan had thrown the edge ring, too, and the tips of the blades have gouged into the fan cover.




 Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

mrd1990 wrote:

The hole you cut will be big enough however inside there is a rubbery/plastic bulge that sticks out

See photo: http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/us...G_0898.JPG
(Grey scratch marks on the bulge)

Edit: The hole can be made big enough by cutting the foam bulge as seen in this photo,

What is that foam bulge for? It's very dense foam. At the moment it doesn't seem to be causing an obstruction.

I've cut off the projections I mentioned earlier but that hasn't helped. I need to cut away a lot more but that isn't so easy as the plastic moulding in the centre of that bit is quite deep as you can in the pic below.

Those prongs belong to this moulding around the heater duct holes (photo from an eBay advert). It looks like, if one removed the screws arrowed, one could remove this piece. On a RHD car, the LH screw may be accessible. I can feel it, but I can't feel the RH screw.

What also confuses is the mixing of posts referring to the later models in this thread. They need to be split out into their own thread. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Noticed today the front fan on mine is not blowing 😭. Checked the fuses, all fine got continuity (not yet checked for power at them), no error codes.

Flaps / actuators are all working, rear blowers working, and all lights come up as normal.

Before I start looking into taking on the blower replacement, are there any diagnostics anyone can recommend to make sure it could only be the motor, as it looks an absolute pain to strip down the dash (thanks for the guides, Garys other thread is spot on)