Alistair wrote:

pld118 wrote:

After opening the boot, before trying to close it again, have you tried:

Using the keyfob by pressing the unlock car button before then pressing the keyfob button that is intended for closing the boot (it works every time for me)?

Yes - tried that - the upper starts to close but the lower doesn’t move at all - then the upper returns to its original position

My lower tailgate seems completely dead - press the button and there is a click but no motor noise or movement

It opens fine and can be closed manually. Then the upper part works fine.

Same with the reset procedures etc - they are all about the upper tailgate opening height as far as I can tell.

have you tried this to sort your lower tailgate Alistair,


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Y. O. L. O.
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Thanks Stan - not seen that one before - I'll give it a try later

Finally remembering to update the thread - unfortunately that didn't work either

What DTC do you have? 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

I don't even know what a DTC is

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Y. O. L. O.
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Tut-tut Stan, as site Moderator that’s not really helpful to the poor chap now, is it!

@Alistair, he meant to say “Delirium Tremens Convulsions” I’m sure.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Only kidding!

Diagnostic Trouble Codes, or Diagnostic Test Codes.

You need an iiD or iCarSoft LR V3 plug-in or bluetooth diagnostic tester to run a scan and check for error codes, basically the car diagnosing what is wrong with itself.
Or, get an indie to do it for around £100, -get a scanner if you’re keeping the car, worth it in the long run, and you can sell it for hardly any loss if you change vehicles.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Ah - one of those IID thingies - I wish I hadn't given mine away 7 or 8 years ago. I should have known it would come in useful one day

This is cheap and ideal for DIY

https://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/aut...anner.html its BT and works well with iPhone or Android phones check the specs before you buy

Once you get the codes, download the WSM in the Wiki there is a section on DTC for various Tailgate faults. You can simply look at your code and compare in the WSM.

 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Hi
I have the same fault with fault code “Rear Left Anti-Pinch Sensor which I’ve replaced however the fault still stands. Measured voltage at the connector pins when pressing the boot button and seem to have voltage on the rhs but not lhs.

I’d certainly be interested to know which wire was broken and sorted in a previous post by Birmingham North Land Rover (Lancaster's.

In addition my GAP tool doesn’t show this fault code but an Autel diagnostics does! Irritating re. the GAP.

Seeing this thread finally prompted me to by the code reader that Kot recommended and it arrived this morning.

It appears that it is my right anti pinch sensor that is sulking. Given Olivers result, I guess my next step is to check the voltage on said anti pinch sensor.

There were also a worrying number of other faults - I did the sensible thing and cleared them all, but a few remain, so I'll be investigating whether any of those matter too.....

Are the batteries fully charged?

I had similar issues and that’s all it was.

Hi

I traced with a meter, expecting 12v in the anti pinch sensor wiring when the button is pushed and the right side presented 12v as expected, but left side did not.

I then unwrapped the loom carefully and found a broken wire. Soldered it up and all is well.

Good luck.

Thanks for that - I haven't resolved the issue, but you did save me £100 in not buying a new sensor

I don't get any voltage on the right, but do on the left. I unwrapped the fabric tape as far as I could and there were no obvious breaks.

I guess the next step is to find the other end & see what's going on there.....