Is it possible to change just the tensioner pulley rather than the whole tensioner? I'm asking because I have tensioner done recently and it seems to be doing its job. But I have a squeak somewhere and I'm going to change the belt and pulleys, I noticed, that many online parts catalogues give an option for just a pulley when you enter the tensioner code. It seems to be the exact same 65mm pulley as the one upwards of the tensioner (LR022953).

Can anyone confirm?

depends if you are sure it's the pulley that's the problem.
In my case, the tensioner arm/housing itself that had partially collapsed and was running at a bit of an angle, which was causing the noise. You could visibly see that it wasn't totally straight or parallel to the belt.

Thank you for your answer. Mine seems to be straight and in line and I can't even determine which pulley is culprit.
Just wondering, if it is possible to change just the pulley on the tensioner.

Hello All,
Today I replaced the tensioner with this post as a very useful guide
With the old tensioner the belt had a chirp and was running at the forward edge of the idler.
With the new tensioner the position of the belt on the idler didn't really change though, it's definitely not in the middle of the idler.
The chirp was also not gone, in the beginning.
It took about 2-3 minutes of cold idle to make it go away.
During this time I could time the chirp with a spot on the belt, the markings showing brand and type.
I don't know why I never noticed this before.
I'm not saying the chirp was AT that spot but the spot made it clear the chirp was only on one particular spot on the belt, it stayed in sync for as long as I could hear it.
Does that mean the belt is bad?
What I also noticed was that the new tensioner wasn't steady, the alu 'disk part', so to speak, is rotating a tiny little bit and kinda fast.
Is that normal?
As far as I can think of this means the belt has a thin spot somewhere, maybe that is/was also the cause of the chirp?
Tomorrow I will check with another cold start.

One small thing about releasing the tension.
Pick the length of the breaker bar so that it can go underneath the coolant pipe.
With mine, when the belt was off, the breaker bar went all the way to the left up to the coolant pipe and there was still a little tension left.
Enough to NOT get it off the tensioner.
So I had to wiggle the belt back on.
I ended up using 2 breaker bars, a shorter one into the longer one.
That way I had enough leverage with both and with the shorter bar removed the longer one could pass under the coolant pipe. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

Cold start still with a chirp this afternoon.
Going to order a new belt.
OEM length is 2518mm. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

I had a squealing noise which went away after changing the tensioner. I was planing to change all pullies and the belt but decided to postpone the weather has been cold and rainy. Im not sure but I think there are more noises to be addressed. Im suspecting water pump but Im not sure. Could you gents have a listen and let me know if the sound is normal or not?
https://youtube.com/shorts/jMh0uRlXBIs?si=m3QxUfCLzvsiNlJa
I tried to listen the pump with an ratchet extension but Im was too scared of pullies and belt 😬 2011 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

kokamagi wrote:

Is it possible to change just the tensioner pulley rather than the whole tensioner? I'm asking because I have tensioner done recently and it seems to be doing its job. But I have a squeak somewhere and I'm going to change the belt and pulleys, I noticed, that many online parts catalogues give an option for just a pulley when you enter the tensioner code. It seems to be the exact same 65mm pulley as the one upwards of the tensioner (LR022953).

Can anyone confirm?

The only issue is that the tensioner hinge wears which then causes the belt to run off.

Yeah, but mine was fairly new and with good tension, but the pulley was moving a little bit too freely. Also the upper left pulley if looking towards engine from the front of the car, was rolling quite easily and bearing felt dry by ear.
But the culprit of the chirp was most probably the bad design of the engine cover, more precisely the sound dampening material under it. It deteriorates over time in the hot environment and bits of it become loose and fall down with vibration straight onto the belt drive. All the pulleys and belt become contaminated with the gunk. It can clearly be seen on the belt itself. Since the chirp of the auxiliary belt drive seems to be the common problem of the 4.4TDV8 after about 200 000km/10 years, I'm pretty sure most of them suffer from this cause.
So I thoroughly cleaned all the accessory pulleys and the front of the engine before installing new pulleys and belt. Then I cured the engine cover by brushing off all the loose stuff with a rough nylon brush and sprayed two layers of heat resistant varnish all over the sound dampening material so It wouldn't separate anymore. Also worth checking the same material under the high pressure fuel pump.
So far so good.

Mine's engine cover was removed on the 1st day of my ownership, primarily to not provide cover for rats but also to not trap hot air, trying to make the hoses and plastic survive longer.

Hi guys

Looks like I need to change my alternator so I am looking at doing idlers / tensioner...

There are quite a few idlers (and expensive if genuine), which are definites pls?

Click image to enlarge

bump Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

bump Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Defo get a genuine tensioner. If you can’t afford genuine idlers it’s not as critical. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)