Barrage of faults appeared drove in limp mode battery was on way out had ot replaced with new one AGM rated bosch and car reset. Lasted 3 days and faults back but now just a click when trying to start and says press brake pedal to start but I am. Faults themselves won't clear.

Faults scrolling past are
ABS
Stability control
EBD
GEARBOX
camera system
Park brake
Forward alert
Blind spot
Adaptive dynamics
Emergency brake asset.

Has the new battery voltage dropped? & do you have a charging issue?.

thats my thoughts to....check the battery , you might have an alternator problem.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Hi battery was fully charged prior to retrying and a friend who gas a garage brought a fancy snap on boost pack still no change.

When thvgarage who swapped battery checked they was a charge voltage present
Thanks fir the replies so far it's an odd one

you've checked the obvious like the battery connectors being tight? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Yes these are spot on I'm an electrician and electrical engineer so it's not whats obvious but is clearly a low voltage issue or bad connection and as these are a crazy minefield was hoping someone might be able to narrow it down before I start throwing money at it.

Those are all communication (or lack of!) based errors, have you tried disconnecting the battery, leaving well alone for ten minutes or so and reconnecting?
When you reconnect, put the terminal on in one positive move, to reduce any arcing which can spike modules and cause them to go mute....
I suspect your issue is down to one module breaking the communication bus.

Yes battery off an hour and many crossed finger. But nothing and thus press pedal to start is newest before when thjs fault was present as soon as I pressed start with or without pedal it started which was odd as I was trying to put ignition on for OBD reader and it just started without pedal.
Thanks for any help with this. I'm good with cars if anyone has ideas but with so much stuff it's where ti start or when to say time and get the man in and hand over the money

What Pheonix said, but before reconnecting, make sure ALL batteries are disconnected INCLUDING any auxilliary batteries, touch the two battery terminals firmly together for 5 minutes before reconnecting the batteries.
This will discharge al the capacitors in the various modules around the car, making them “cold reboot” next time they are powered up. Please be sure you know what you are doing and don’t risk any short-circuits. Some resets may be required if you do this, perhaps others can advise, it may be prudent to get an iiD tool, and to check this all out in advance before you begin.

This video explains it in general, maybe there is a RR specific instruction somewhere….


 “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Just re-read the original post, I missed the point about the faults existing before the battery replacement.
First question - do the brake lights work?
It does sound like the brake pedal switch (actually, two switches in one) may be the causal part. a 'disagreement' between the two sides can give many of the faults you list.
If you want to check it, it's quite simple, there is a NO & a NC side, isolated from each other, with the switch removed, connect a continuity tester to one side of the switch and slowly press the plunger in until the state changes, make a mark on the stem at the change point, then check the other side of the switch, if the change point is different, then you need a new switch. Obviously if there is no change or the switch is resistive, then it also needs changing.

Thanks I'm going to try the battery and system reset and I have a new brake switch as I saw these can be temperamental and for £12 got one ready. Any hints on how to get to the brake switch which panels to remove and how.

Right some updates

I borrowed ther Full diagnostic gear from my local garage while they are closed over christmas and this is pointing everything towards the ABS module.

All the various faults all show because many things have no comms with the ABS module.

The diagnostic cannot see the ABS module so this def looks like the place to start.

I have managed to get it off the deck using the hot functions for suspension so that's a bonus especially if it does have to go on a low loader.

So where do i start with the ABS module to prove its just not a fuse or a poor connection.
Is the ABS module all encompassed as part of the ABS pump as there's a bunch of cables going there.

I found 3 fuses 10a 25a and 40a in the nearby fusebox and these all look to be fine.

Any pointers what to do next before i have to send it in to the garage and some ideas on costs of this module and fitting costs for guidance also be good.

Right, well you're getting somewhere then - check the ground connections and check that power is getting to the correct pins on the ABS connector - don't rely on 'if it's at the fuses, it will be at the module'.

If all that checks out, then check that you are getting voltage on the CAN wires, roughly 2.5V measured between each CAN wire and ground - do that with the connector disconnected from the ABS so you are checking the rest of the CAN, not any output from the ABS. if all OK at that stage, then you either need to de-pin the CAN from the ABS, cut the twisted pairs or go to the other end of the CAN with respect to the ABS wiring and disconnect that module, then test the CAN again to see if you are getting any CAN signal from the ABS - same voltages as above.

It sounds complex but it's not:- essentially you're checking
Power & ground are getting to the ABS
CAN is getting to the ABS
CAN is getting out of the ABS

Clearly, one of the above isn't happening, you just need to find out which, in a methodical, linear way. - don't forget pin-grip and connector corrosion - give everything a good visual check before you get too involved with your voltmeter.

ETA - circuit diagram below in case you don't have it.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...ontrol.pdf

can this be done with the module in place as it looks like any movement is going to to require removal of hydraulic lines its the 5.0 and the module is up under the wiper area on driver side same spot as battery but opposite side.

Where do i get the full pinouts as there also appears to be a bunch of types when i google this part.

You should be able to remove the connector with the ABS in situ, then remove the outer shell to access the back of the connector - use decent backprobe pins, don't ever probe the connector faces - you'll just cause pin grip issues.

The connector pin numbers are on the circuit diagram and there will be reference markings on the connector moulding - not every cavity but at least the first and last of each cavity row. You can double-check the wiring colour is the same as on the diagram.

The pinout should be the same for all applicable variations of the ABS module, the one above is correct for your model year and there is no difference indicated for the SC.

There is a quick check you can do by measuring the resistance across the HS-CAN at the diagnostic socket with the battery disconnected, you should get either 60 or 120 ohms, give or take single numbers, but unless you have a breakout box, it'll be difficult to do without potentially damaging the connector - it's pins 6 & 14 if you think you can do it.