So I have stripped it down awaiting the new boots.

Was fairly simple actually so I will explain my process.

After getting the car up in the air and the wheels off, I disconnected the drop links both sides and then the track rod end on the offside. I then took off the calliper and the disc and splash shield.

After undoing the nuts on the upright pinch bolts, I found the lower one was stuck, I rotated the bolt a few times in each direction to free it up and it started to move, I left the bolts in place for now.

I then deflated the airbags to make it a bit easier to work on.

Having used a punch to move the staking part of the hub nut outward away from the driveshaft with a 36mm deep 12 point socket and my Makita impact gun (which made it an absolute doddle) I then removed the upright from the hub carrier by drifting out the bolts with a bronze drift.

The driveshaft was a bit stuck in the hub so I used my new (enormous) 10t hydraulic puller to push the driveshaft out. It literally just popped out.

Then I pulled the CV out of the hub carrier and pulled the driveshaft towards me, in a slide hammer type motion and this disengaged the drive shaft inner splines from the differential and the whole lot started to come out.

You’ll find the ARB is in the way so I used my new Sprinter jack to lift the ARB up out of the way and the whole thing came straight out.

Outer CV joint

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I’ve now cleaned up the CV and painted it.

Click image to enlarge

Quick video of the driveshaft removal process explained. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Now my car is back together after fitting the driveshaft back in, I have some observations.

The clips that secure the CV boots onto the joints are an absolutel nightmare to get hooked together, they took far longer than any other single operation on this process.

The outer CV is tricky to relocate into the hub. DO NOT hit the back of the CV joint on the new boot to locate it or it will split.
Leave the boot clip off and tap the back of the metal part of the CV joint with a soft faced hammer to locate the splines into the hub, then fit the CV boot clip.

Change the differential seal, don't chance it. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Two days after getting the car back together, I come out this morning to find the car kneeling down on the nearside.
Not the side I have just been working on, oddly enough.

I started the car and tried to raise it and this is the result



Two new air springs ordered  Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

That's bad luck mate. Thing is, you worry me because mine is a year older than yours!!
Another video coming up I hope?

Great videos - such a shame about the bag. Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic63354.html
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Here is the strut off the car and a quick video about the split in the bag, and how to disassemble it.

 Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Here's another video about how to reassemble the from air struts.

No talking on this one, just a quick flick through.

 Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Been doing a lot recently but not done much to write up about it so this may be a long update.

Following the fitting of the struts back to the car I had some issues with the Aerosus air springs, they were both leaking overnight causing the car to sink from within what turned out to be the swivel joint. This was located by taking them off the car again and submerging them in a paddling pool whilst inflated using my home made airbag inflation tool. Not fogetting to seal off the CVD plug connection so water does not get into the electronics. I used a finger off a latex glove and an elastic band.

Here's the video I made to send to Aerosus. Following an investigation they refunded me. Can't fault their service but the airbags were of questionable quality.



One thing I noticed was the top of the strut sealing assembly. On the original one there were two spacers and two O rings, Aerosus supplied three spacers and I guessed that is because the space within the top bearing where they sit to seal up may be deeper than the original.

When I took them back apart I noticed that the spacers were deformed and I can only attribute this to there being too many rings within the space allowed.



As you can see from this picture one of the spacers is still within the top rubber mount (which has been cut out of the air bag assembly for inspection) and there are another two visible and you can see one of them is seriously deformed, as well as one of the O rings.


I ended up taking the air bags off the struts and replacing them with BWI (Genuine) airbags and when I tested them in water they wept a bit from the bottom O rings which I had greased with silicone grease. I cleaned off all the grease and reassembled and then they sealed up perfectly, lesson learned to install strut O rings dry.

Struts back onto the car and the suspension working perfectly and then I noticed a small knocking from the front which I located to be the rear lower arm slightly contacting the mount. There was more movement in the large rubber bush that I would have liked so they are getting replaced.



These were Britpart arms so I have now replaced them with Delphi ones which I found to be much better quality.

Next job is to replace the rear air bags as they are the same age as the front so I'll do them as part of my preventative maintenance tasks before they decide to give up on me.

As it's been a year since I changed the oil and filter I also did that as well, even though the car has only covered 3000 miles since I last did it.


 Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Hi,

Where did you order the prop support bearing from please?

Thanks

Replied to your PM but for the benefit of anyone else this is the bearing I used.

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/terrafirma-range-...r-bearing/ Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Car went to its new owner today, felt a little sad to see it go to be honest.

I guess this is progress towards net zero  Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

This maybe an old thread but it is a great write up Caesium.....thanks for your efforts and a great reference resource.

I was shocked to see Caesium part with her after doing so much work!

I note the issue with the Aerosus air bags as if anybody follows Sam's Motor & Machine, you will note he had issues with Aerosus suspension air bags too! Maybe a bad batch but I am steering clear of Aerosus. I will be doing my rears soon and have bought some Bilstein 40-240732 Rear Airbags (Original part number RKB500240).

Nothing more frustrating than replacing a part only to find the part is defective or like the Britpart bushes on their suspension arms....only last a few thousand miles.

Original LR parts are costly but may be more cost effective in the long run (especially if you value your time)