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https://www.amazon.co.uk/MAIKEHIGH-Tubeles...&psc=1
I have one of these dead easy to use and great repair

I recently fixed mine on a new tyre with 50 miles on it it is now the spare but it holds air, I use a different kit the same one I use on my motor bikes which put a mushroom type plug in the hole from outside in.

Tyre plugger

Look it up I carry it in the boot with my mini compressor

I just don’t fancy a plugged tyre on the front on a 2.5 ton car. Given that I use it for towing I’m not sure I fancy it on the back either.

The spare is an older tyre so I might plug it and put a newer tyre on the spare but I’d rather have a known good tyre on the front I think. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Couldn't agree more I never scrimp on tyres I would put it in the boot

Replacement tyre arrived from Blackcircles very quickly. Ordered early hours of Thursday morning, dispatched at 10am on Thursday, arrived before 10am on Friday.

Today, I wished I’d paid someone to fit it though. It took me over 2 hours just to break the bead on the old tyre. I’ve never had problems doing it with the tyre machine before. I ended up cranking the compressor up from 8 bar to 10 bar and still struggled. It was like the beads were glued to the rim.

When it finally gave the rim was spotless, there was absolutely nothing on it that would indicate sealant or adhesive. I’ve got a feeling the tyres were put on the rims before they’d properly cooled when they were refurbished last November.

Whilst the tyre was off I fitted a new TPMS sensor to the rim.

Once the wheel was balanced and back on the car I set about taking the NS front wheel off to fit a TPMS sensor to that wheel too. I had the same problem breaking the bead on that one too. After I’d done them both I gave up. I couldn’t bring myself to do the rears after a day like that.

I re-enabled the TPMS and took it for a run, it didn’t appear to learn the sensors but there’s only the fronts in place, not the rears so I’ll try again once they’ve been fitted.

I parked it in the shed before jacking it today. Put the suspension on high and put the handbrake on before getting out of the car.

After it’s been jacked today I’m getting a handbrake error that won’t clear now. The fault code is U2002-92. The unjam procedure works the module on the subframe, I can hear that going. The switch isn’t doing anything though and the switch input status on the IID is error.

Going to start a separate thread on that one though.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Are you sure one of the cables hasn’t snapped left or right? I had something similar and the left cable had snapped… what a lovely lovely job that was to change - so lovely I paid a man to do it 😂 and now in ever use the handbrake except for mot and to occasionally check it works Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

I don’t think so. They were brand new when fitted in the summer. I wouldn’t have thought I’d get that error message from a snapped cable though. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Hi David tried to send a pm but couldn't get it to work can you send me who you used for reardiffand roughly what they charged please

Sorry for the slow reply.

Company was D&A Steering in Birmingham. Cost was just under £400 plus VAT from memory.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Been using the car constantly this week ferrying back and forth to the hospital to see the little fella and have noticed a few issues I need to sort.

I’m sure my rear diff has started to whine again. Below 60mph you can’t hear it, above 60 and you can hear something. It’s nowhere near as loud as it was before it was rebuilt though. on overrun it’s silent and when you accelerate it becomes a bit more intense so needs looking at again. Annoying as it’s only done 1000 odd miles since the rebuild.

The other fault I noticed was on the motorway today I put my foot down a bit to get out in front of someone and the car kicked down a gear (6th to 5th) and as it changed down it felt like it was steering from the rear and was a bit unstable. Tried it a few more times and I can recreate the symptoms when kicking down 1 or 2 gears.

It feels stable on the motorways, A roads or B roads at any speeds and when towing it feels planted with no movement or wiggle in anything. It only seems to happen on kickdown.

I’m wondering if the two issues could be related.

In this weather I just want one that works and have found myself looking at L494 and L405 SDV8’s on the approved used website recently.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Without driving it, the transfer box sounds the likely source of both issues to me.

From my experience,. the L494 won't give you any less downtime. The L405 is more robust than the L494 but has more issues than a teenager.. I drive an L322 because they were the last of the 'robust' Landrovers, Yes, there are age-related issues but that comes with the territory.

David,

I had an issue with my SC trying to steer from the rear and after checking I found the new rear trailing arm toe link (RGD500180) I had fitted had worked a bolt loose. Refitted with some thread lock. Maybe worth a check?

Regards

John

Thanks guys.

The transfer box was brand new in 2021 and hasn’t done 5k miles.

Will need to get under it and have a look but time is in short supply at the moment.

I’m aware the newer ones won’t be more reliable but I’d have a warranty on them so it wouldn’t be my problem  2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Maybe try a transfer box recalibration? I've know it to cure all manner of ills with the L319/L320 which uses the same Steyr unit.

Fair point about the warranty - downtime is still downtime though.