I was envisaging reading the sensor voltage at the ADM connector, not the height sensor, that way you are also confirming the wiring is OK, but yes, if you have the ability to read live values from the module, that is preferable.

I was thinking about the 1st linked video and while many years ago I used a pin as a probe into a sensor connector, my excuse at the time was that I didn't have a tool that could show damper module live values.

GraemeS wrote:

Changing heights changes the track width so the tyres will be stretched inwards / outwards causing the height to not immediately at the required height, taking time to settle to the required height.

Does your list of live values ecus look like this, including active damping?
https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...values.png

Its been quite some time since mine was updated but certainly worth trying as Gap have added functonality over time.

Phoenix wrote:

colalowe wrote:

The lateral sensor is bouncing between 0.016ms2 and 0.020ms2 not sure what that is in Volts.

The right rear height sensor V is constantly moving between 1.95v and 2.0v when it should be level like the others (in access mode) it only does it in this V range, when it goes up to say 2.85v (Off road mode) it stays perfectly flat.

The vehicle is stationary without the brake on and in neutral (this stops the brakes putting any strain on the suspension as it moves up and down)

I try the different height settings to see how the outputs change and when I noticed the Lateral sensor bouncing I wondered if it was sensing the engine running so switched off the engine to see if it made any difference (it didnt)

So all the above is reading from the height level side of the sensor as I cant get a reading from the ADM side of the sensor, what I am trying to crudely work out is that if the height side of the sensor if giving erratic readings then it is possible that the ADM side of the sensor is also giving erratic readings.

When the new sensors arrive I will fit them all and run the test again, fingers crossed I get four smooth traces on the graph at all heights, I can also then assume the ADM side of the sensor is reporting correctly as well.

Hope that makes sense, like I've said its trial and error at the moment.

Those measurements are hardly 'bouncing' or erratic in the real world values, yes, there is some variation but hardly anything to cause concern. There is a basic error though, you're still only reading the EAS values and assuming the ADM is getting the same values - you really need to be looking at the data the ADM is receiving, forget the IID 'tool' use a voltmeter, the signals are analogue volts DC so easily readable.

The height sensors are hall-effect sensors with a moving magnet, the output from the sensors are fed into a bit of electronics that created a linear DC voltage, it's likely that your fluctuations are due to that particular height sensor magnet moving between one hall sensor and another due to manufacturing variations (hence the banding in the graphs above) rather than an actual defect. similarly, the change in acceleration from 0.016 to 0.020m/s2 is miniscule and likely within the tolerance of the sensor, it appears that the front sensor value is a composite value of both sensors so subject to some sort of averaging / weighting - and more likely to appear 'stable'.
Personally, i think you're seeing big changes because the graph is magnifying the readings, if you were to graph across the range of acceptable signal, you wouldn't notice the slight variation you're seeing.

I think you're playing parts roulette in changing the height sensors without any solid measurements or evidence to show a defect - you'll also need to calibrate the new sensors due to manufacturing variations. But it's your money...

Yep I think you are right about the graphs magnifying the variations and I have probably jumped the gun slightly, just wanted to find something to explain the harshness in the ride without spending fortunes on new shocks like others have done and then had no improvement.
My ride has definitely improved after altering the height and zero position although for me its still not perfect, once the new sensors are fitted and calibrated Ill let you know if they make any difference.  2012 TDV8 Autobiography Baltic Blue
Previous
2007 BMW M5 E60

I do notice on mine that if its riding 'ok' on a given day then I drop it to access height and back up to standard it always ends up firmer.

Could definitely be onto something with the height sensors

So I have been on to GAP and updated my IID tool, I can now see the ADM values which is great!

Although the initial data suggests my sensors on that side are all ok

At the moment stood still all the height sensors are perfectly flat and there's only very minor fluctuations in the accelerometers.

Also it now shows when the current is applied to the dampers so you can see when the system is trying to soften up the damper and when it should be hard. Again initial impression is that the system is working as it should.

Ah well, the new sensors are on the way so ill fit them anyway as the car has done 125000mls so it wont harm to change them.

Recon Ill just have to get used to the ride and stop throwing money at it  2012 TDV8 Autobiography Baltic Blue
Previous
2007 BMW M5 E60

GraemeS wrote:

Ffrr-lover wrote:

My simplistic thinking is that while there are two outputs (height and CVD) they pull that from the same component that could be faulty.

This is incorrect. There are 6 wires going to each sensor, a set of 5V, earth and signal wires for each of the suspension and CVD sensors, with the shaft and housing the only parts in common.

Thank you for clarifying
As I said… my simplistic view… just not a correct view  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Phoenix wrote:

Easy to do on a 4-post ramp, the bolts really should be no more than finger tight before the weight is put on the wheels, then horsed up to -'F-tight' (or 165Nm + 90deg. if you prefer) - as it's an angular tightening, I'd put a new nut & bolt in there.

MarianaWestminster wrote:

I do notice on mine that if its riding 'ok' on a given day then I drop it to access height and back up to standard it always ends up firmer.

Could definitely be onto something with the height sensors

colalowe wrote:

So I have been on to GAP and updated my IID tool, I can now see the ADM values which is great!

Ffrr-lover wrote:

Phoenix wrote:

Easy to do on a 4-post ramp, the bolts really should be no more than finger tight before the weight is put on the wheels, then horsed up to -'F-tight' (or 165Nm + 90deg. if you prefer) - as it's an angular tightening, I'd put a new nut & bolt in there.

“Weight on the wheels…” does jacking up the hub to the correct height do enough? For us driveway “mechanics” where we have to work under jacked up cars, this is the only way to get the correct height and access to tighten those bolts.

colalowe wrote:

So I have been on to GAP and updated my IID tool, I can now see the ADM values which is great!

Although the initial data suggests my sensors on that side are all ok

At the moment stood still all the height sensors are perfectly flat and there's only very minor fluctuations in the accelerometers.

Also it now shows when the current is applied to the dampers so you can see when the system is trying to soften up the damper and when it should be hard. Again initial impression is that the system is working as it should.

Ah well, the new sensors are on the way so ill fit them anyway as the car has done 125000mls so it wont harm to change them.

Recon Ill just have to get used to the ride and stop throwing money at it

are people buying the sensor and the arm - Part No. LR023652

or can you buy the sensor on its own ??

there seem to be a lot of people who have suffered with the wiring to the sensor ( 6 pins ) , and so there are many sellers that have kits for sale to make it easy to repair - anyone found this out yet, that the wiring on all 4 corners is suspect and needs looking at to confirm that all is how it should be ??



Last edited by pcourtney on 28th Sep 2022 6:38pm. Edited 1 time in total

I got the complete arm, genuine part from Duckworths as I’ve read a few things about issues with non genuine sensors.

Was £109 delivered.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport