Ive just undertaken this and thought id put down how i did it hopefully to help others.

Tools required
Socket set mainly 7-8-10-13mm also some torques bits with extension bars and a magnet to stop the bolst dissapering
screwdrivers both pozzi and flat
trim removing tool with a forked and bent end
pliers or similar
ramps or jack axle stands
10l pre mixed antifreeze
cooling fan spanners

First start by lifting the car either on ramps or axle stands

Next remove the towing eye cover then the plastic under shield, you will find the engineers had a field day making things hard for the mechanics as once you have removed all the fixings from under the car you have to pull the lower part of the bumper forward to gain access to four bolts in the front of the under shield.

Next remove the elbows connecting both air filter boxes to the down pipes and unclip the connectors to the sensor on the air boxes.

On the passenger side air box there are two electrical units that are attached to the wing by a 8mm bolt undo this and lift up and put out of the way.

Then remove both air boxes this is done by lifting upwards the end with the pipe attached to free the lug then pulling away from the wings to free the two lugs in the wings, the drivers side has a vacuum pipe attached un plug this and put to one side.

Then i undid the small bolt at the bottom of the coolant expansion tank, you can then push this away from you, then you can u remove the small pipe that goes into the top of the tank, next put a container under the car directly under the expansion tank, then using a flat bladed screwdriver you can pull out the quick release clip on the pipe connected to the tank, then pull off the pipe and remove the tank out of the car you will loose about 5l of coolant

Whilst on this side of the car if you trace the silver AC pipe running down the side of the radiator you will see a clip holding it to the radiator cowl, remove this and gently push the pipe away from the rad this exposes a bolt head that need removing as its holding the rad cowl on.

Moving to the passenger side look at the air pipe that was connected via the elbow to the air box, on the left as you look at it roughly 6inches down is a 30mm ish pipe this needs unclipping then if you follow the big air pipe it goes down then bends towards the back of the engine you will see a jubilee clip undo this and remove the air pipe.

Next still working on the passenger side look down the side of the rad cowl and youl see a wiring loom, unclip all the connectors and using the trim tool pop the small plastic rivets out to free the wire from the cowl.

Then i removed the top intercooler hose from the intercooler and the throttle body, first i undid the electrical connector from the part that fits into the housing then undid the jubilee clip from the intercooler and using a flat bladed screwdriver i prised the wire clip that holds the pipe to the throttle body and pulled away.

Next i undid the four bolts holding the throttle body to the doughnut, undid the electrical connector, this was done for two reason, first it made access to the water pipes underneath easier and i needed cleaning.

I then removed the coolant pipe i did this by inserting a screwdriver into the quick release fitting on the engine side and gently pulling away, this is the pipe with a small section and two pipes coming out at 90 deg one is the one i undid on top of the expansion tank the other is a brittle pipe that runs to a quick release fitting on top of the engine undo the quick release fitting and being very carful undo the clip on the radiator side and gently pull off making sure the brittle pipe doesn't get damaged.

Next undo the two bolts holding the AC pipes to the cowl and the top two bolts holding the radiator cowl.

Then moving to the right side of the cowl remove the bolts down the side that hold it to the rad.

Now getting underneath the car on the drivers side of the cowl there is a bolt at the bottom you can see it on the right.

Then in the center there is a cooling device of some sorts undo the single bolt and gently pull it away do not undo the pipes. looking up and slightly to the right of this you will see the second bold holding the lower part of the cowl on.

Next moving over to the passenger side you will see what i think is the second turbo bypass valve attached to the cowl, there are two pipes connected to this undo the clips and remove the pipes its tight but doable, once you have removed the pipes there are three bolts, undo these and from above remove the valve unclipping the vacuum pipe but leave the short wiring harness on it.

The engineers hid the last bold behind where the valve was bolted its in deep but easily removed, once this is out the cowl is free.

Next working from above using the fan spanners undo the fan and gently moving the AC pipe on the top remove the cowl and fan together,

The last thing to remove to give full access to the idlers etc is a metal cooling pipe this just need the quick release connector undoing at the engine then it can be carefully removed out of the way,

If your doing this as a preventative measure then take note of the belt rout before cutting the fan belt and removing the accessory belt, my fan belt had snapped and took the accessory belt with it. If this is the case for you check there are no bits of the old belt wrapped round any of the ancillaries.

Now you Can undo the idlers, i did the ones on the drivers side first, swapping the old for the new, the the two nearest the tensioner i removed then i swapped the tensioner before replacing the two idlers as it made access to the tensioner bolts easier torque wrench settings for the 65mm idlers 48Nm or 35lb-ft for the 80mm idlers 80Nm or 59lb-ft and the two bolts holding the tensioner on 25Nm or 18lb-ft

now its time to fit the accessory drive belt below is a picture from the workshop manual thus will help, i fed it all around the idlers laving the AC compressor making sure all the v grooves were correctly located before attaching a socket to the tensioner to remove the tension, i then slipped the belt over the AC pulley and then let the tensioner do it work, i took my time inspecting the belt on all the idlers and pulleys to make sure is sat correctly.


To fit the small fan belt you can use a stretching device but as i didn't have on hand i used a small g cramp and thin bit of mdf, first i put the belt on the fan pully then i cramped the belt to the drive pully at the top right then using a socket i turned the crank clockwise making sure the belt ran perfect onto the top fan pulley, the belt after a half turn popped onto the pulley, i then rotated the engine a few times to ensure both belts ran perfectly.

Putting everything back is a reversal of the steps above and is much quicker, just make sure all clips are tightened, all cables reconnected, coolant is topped up, then your good to go.

I hope this helps others to do this, its not hard just awkward if ive missed anything please point it out and ill amend . 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Nice write up

I’m sure that’ll be handy for a lot of people as it looks like a sod of a job! 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Thanks mate i hope it will help, its actually not too bad once you know the order of things saves a lot of money as well 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Thanks for the taking the time to do the write up as said on another post this will help me do mine this weekend if my parts arrive this week. 2016 4.4 diesel

Glad it helped if I get time I’ll add pictures from the workshop manual if you need help just drop me a PM 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Lol check your inbox every 5 minutes  2016 4.4 diesel

😂😂 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Good evening gentlemen
Now I’m doing this today well was trying to. Did all things here and more I think lol. But for some reason I cannot undo the main viscous fan nut. Yes I’m aware that it is left hand thread but it just won’t budge
I’ve been trying for hours just trying different things to shift it to no avail
Your suggestions will surely give me the strength to carry on  2016 4.4 diesel

Do you have the locking tool and spanner if so I set my locking tool so it was up against a fixed part of the engine and gave the spanner a whack with my rubber mallet and it started to undo hope this helps 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Got the spanner but not the locking bit
But my son came over today with his know how and after 2 hours managed to get it off. Hoorah
So plodding on now. Thanks 2016 4.4 diesel

Just take your time mate it’s not too bad once you get going 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

Thanks for taking the trouble to do a write-up

Hope it helps a few people 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner

So together to a degree. Just need to put everything together Fan is on the cowling is resting there with it
Finish up next weekend and hopefully run it again. To many things to do on a Sunday to get it finished today
Thankfully have use of another car so no real drama
Ps thanks for the belt picture. Worked a treat 2016 4.4 diesel

👍🏼 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8
2006 Discovery 3 HSE 260k miles and still going strong with a new owner