Following Furnitureman's excellent write up and guide and whilst I wait collection of my 4.4 TDV8, I've taken the liberty of breaking the guide down into headed steps. I've watched a few videos on this and reading through the steps it doesn't actually seem so daunting.

Having changed the air con condenser on my old RRS I know that half the time is taken working out what socket size is needed and where I've put everything.

If the wise old elves on here who have done this before would kindly review the guide and update for bolt sizes where indicated, I reckon a good hour can be shaved off the time to change all the idlers and pulleys.

Any other tips and tricks feel free to update accordingly. Once it's completed, I'll print and laminate it and can then send it on to others to use when tackling this job themselves. I'll bold and underline the headings on the printed version. Too much faff to do it on here.

4.4 TDV8 Idlers, pulleys and belts replacement

Tools required
Socket set mainly 7-8-10-13mm also some Torx bits with extension bars and a magnet to stop the bolts disappearing.
Screwdrivers both pozi and flat
Trim removing tool with a forked and bent end
Pliers
Ramps or jack axle stands
10l pre mixed antifreeze
Cooling fan spanners

There are a lot of bolts and bits to undo, so it might be worth using small clear bags to store them and labelling with a Sharpie as you go along.

First start by lifting the car either on ramps or axle stands

Remove the towing eye cover, then the plastic under shield - pull the lower part of the bumper forward to gain access to four bolts in the front of the under shield.

Air box removal

Next remove the elbows connecting both air filter boxes to the down pipes and unclip the connectors to the sensor on the air boxes.

On the passenger side air box, there are two electrical units that are attached to the wing by an 8mm bolt. Undo this and lift up and put out of the way. Refit the bolt a couple of turns so you don’t lose it.

Now remove both air boxes. This is done by lifting the end with the pipe attached upwards to free the lug, then pulling away from the wings to free the two lugs in the wings. The driver’s side has a vacuum pipe attached - unplug this and put to one side.


Expansion tank removal

Undo the small bolt (SIZE ?) at the bottom of the coolant expansion tank. You can then push this away from you. This allows you to remove the small pipe that goes into the top of the tank. Next put a container under the car directly under the expansion tank and using a flat bladed screwdriver, you can pull out the quick release clip on the pipe connected to the tank. Now pull off the pipe and remove the tank out of the car you will lose about 5l of coolant.

AC Pipe – moving out of the way

Whilst on this side of the car if you trace the silver AC pipe running down the side of the radiator you will see a clip holding it to the radiator cowl. Remove this clip and gently push the pipe away from the rad. This exposes a bolt head (SIZE ?) that need removing, as its holding the rad cowl on.

Air Pipe removal

Moving to the passenger side, look at the air pipe that was connected via the elbow to the air box. On the left as you look at it - roughly 6 inches down, is a 30mm ish pipe. This needs unclipping and then if you follow the big air pipe, it goes down then bends towards the back of the engine. You will see a jubilee clip - undo this and remove the air pipe.
Wiring loom connections

Next and still working on the passenger side, look down the side of the rad cowl and you’ll see a wiring loom. Unclip all the connectors and using the trim tool, pop the small plastic rivets out to free the wire from the cowl.

Intercooler hose
Remove the top intercooler hose from the intercooler and the throttle body. First undo the electrical connector from the part that fits into the housing, then undo the jubilee clip from the intercooler and using a flat bladed screwdriver, prise the wire clip that holds the pipe to the throttle body and pull it away.
Throttle body

Next, undo the four bolts (SIZE ?) holding the throttle body to the doughnut and undo the electrical connector. This is done for two reasons - first it makes access to the water pipes underneath easier and it is also sensible to clean the throttle body whilst it’s out.

Coolant pipe – be careful !!

Now remove the coolant pipe by inserting a screwdriver into the quick release fitting on the engine side and gently pulling away. This is the pipe with a small plastic section and two pipes coming out at 90 deg.
One goes to the top of the expansion tank and the other is a brittle pipe that runs to a quick release fitting on top of the engine. Undo the quick release fitting and BEING VERY CAREFUL undo the clip on the radiator side and gently pull off, making sure the brittle pipe doesn't get damaged.

Fan shroud unbolting

Next, undo the two bolts (SIZE ?) holding the AC pipes to the cowl and the top two bolts (SIZE ?) holding the radiator cowl.

Then moving to the right side of the cowl, remove the bolts (SIZE ?) down the side, that hold it to the rad.

Now getting underneath the car on the driver’s side of the cowl, there is a bolt (SIZE ?) at the bottom - you can see it on the right.

In the centre, there is a cooling device of some sorts. Undo the single bolt (SIZE ?) and gently pull it away. DO NOT UNDO THE PIPES. looking up and slightly to the right of this, you will see the second bolt (SIZE ?) holding the lower part of the cowl on.

Next moving over to the passenger side, you will see the second turbo bypass valve attached to the cowl. There are two pipes connected to this. Undo the clips and remove the pipes. It’s tight but doable. Once you have removed the pipes, there are three bolts (SIZE ?), undo these and from above, remove the valve, unclipping the vacuum pipe. Leave the short wiring harness on it.

The engineers hid the last bolt (SIZE ?) behind where the valve was bolted. It’s in deep, but easily removed. Once this is out the cowl is free.

Fan and shroud removal

Next working from above and using the fan spanners, undo the fan and gently moving the AC pipe on the top, remove the cowl and fan together. It’s sensible to put a piece of carboard in front of the radiator to prevent damage whilst removing and re-fitting the shroud.

Access to the idler & pulleys
The last thing to remove to give full access to the idlers etc is a metal cooling pipe. This just need the quick release connector undoing at the engine and then it can be carefully removed out of the way,

If you’re doing this as a preventative measure, then take note of the belt route before cutting the fan belt and removing the accessory belt. If your belt has snapped and taken the accessory belt with it, check there are no bits of the old belt wrapped round any of the ancillaries.

Idlers, pulleys and tensioner – happy days !

At last you can now undo the idlers. Do the ones on the driver’s side first, swapping the old for the new, one at a time (BOLT SIZE ?). Remove the two idlers nearest the tensioner and the swap the tensioner before replacing the two idlers. This makes access to the tensioner bolts easier. Torque wrench settings for the 65mm idlers 48Nm or 35lbft - for the 80mm idlers 80Nm or 59lbft and the two bolts (SIZE ?) holding the tensioner on, 25Nm or 18lbft

Accessory Belt fitting
Now its time to fit the accessory drive belt. Below is a picture from the workshop manual which will help. Feed it all around the idlers, leaving the AC compressor and make sure all the v grooves are correctly located. Before attaching a socket to the tensioner to remove the tension, slip the belt over the AC pulley and then let the tensioner do its work. Have a well earned up of tea and take some time to inspect the belt on all the idlers and pulleys to make sure is sat correctly.


Fan belt fitting
To fit the small fan belt you can use a stretching device, but if you don’t have access to one, use a small G-clamp or Mole grips and thin bit of wood. First, put the belt on the fan pulley, then clamp the belt to the drive pulley at the top right. Next, using a socket (SIZE ?) turn the crank clockwise, making sure the belt runs perfect onto the top fan pulley. The belt should pop onto the pulley after half a turn or so. Then rotate the engine a few times to ensure both belts ran perfectly.

Putting everything back is a reversal of the steps above and is much quicker. Just make sure all clips are tightened, all cables reconnected, coolant is topped up, then your good to go.
A tip for bleeding the coolant – don’t connect the upper most hose on the expansion tank until all the air is out. This is the highest part of the system and air should naturally bleed out from here.

I recently had to drain the coolant.
My tip when filling is to fill the expansion tank to it's correct level.
Then I got at least another 1 litre in through the bleed screw using a small funnel and then closed it.
Over the next couple of days I probably added another 1/4 of a litre after it had 'burped' itself and has remained constantly full since.

Thanks for the amazing guide Jonny! I’m going to be tackling this job once spring is in the air, so this is just what the doctor ordered. How about adding all the LR part no’s for the original bits and bobs? That would make it a complete how-to, perfect for the Wiki…

Also, I’ve heard rumour that it’s best to replace the water pump and even alternator at this point as precautions as the new belt/tensioner can put extra strain on old parts. What’s the general opinion on this?

Ta. -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)