When I had a knackered strut, I also had a lively rear end that would skip around corners if on anything other than smooth tarmac. When it hit those imperfections it would crash right through the chassis. Far more pronounced than stiff suspension.
I also found that corner to bounce more than the others.

A suggestion to check for a failed strut Is to drive over a speed bump and see if the car bounces evenly. If uneven, it’ll highlight a problem. If your struts are just tired (evenly) then it doesn’t help…

One suggestion I have read is if you think it’s due to the CVD system is to unplug the fuse for them and compare the ride. If there is no difference (it locks on hard) then the CVD isn’t working.

Some say pushing the dcs button does the same but I never found that made a difference for me… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I had a similar issue, no fault codes, checked the wires on all of the struts, I was advised to change the module for the active dynamic suspension in the rear panel. It cured my problem. £45 off eBay. Not saying this is the solution, but I considered a relative option for little outlay.

I had the same issue. It was a front damper; I could see the bonnet being jittery. There wasn’t any oil leaking so something failed inside, most likely a jammed solenoid in the damper itself so it was stuck on ‘hard’ despite the ECU giving it the signal to open 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

Update so far.
Decided to change the rear upper and lower knuckle bushes and the toe link bars.
Upper bushes weren’t too bad to change and the old ones seemed ok.
Lower ones however were both pigs to get out!! The circlip were rusted in and the gaps were in awkward places. When I finally got them out I found both were fully rusted and Siezed inside.
One of the anti roll bar links has snapped aswell so waiting for two new ones.
Also waiting for some long reach straight spanner’s to attempt the tie link bars.
Should hopefully drive better with it all replaced.

Well I changed the bushes top and.bottom, I also changed the rear anti roll bar links. The car drives much much better now, no squeaking either.
I still have to change the toe link rods but I’ll have to get an Indy to do that as the nuts on the sub frame end are too tricky and rusted for me.

Replacing the 7yr old front tyres with <5mm tread with new ones ( same Scorpion verde) made a substantial difference to the harsh low speed ride on mine. So much so I'm considering doing the same on the rears even though they are >5mm left. Not sure if this is age related or newer tyre design. An inspection revealed various worn bushes and dampness on the rear shocks but until I start getting knocks and clunks over bumps and actually feel like the rear is undamped I'll leave alone for now. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I’m having similar issues with a bone shuddering judder from the back end when going over any bumps or pot holes (the roads around the Lake District are awful).
Anyway, reading through the previous posts most seem to ring true with the issues I’m having, however my question is: what does CVD stand for?
Also, I note some suggest checking the loom, is there a specific place it tend to wear through?
Thanks in advance.
Dave

Continuously Variable Dampers….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Davlyn wrote:

I’m having similar issues with a bone shuddering judder from the back end when going over any bumps or pot holes (the roads around the Lake District are awful).
Anyway, reading through the previous posts most seem to ring true with the issues I’m having, however my question is: what does CVD stand for?
Also, I note some suggest checking the loom, is there a specific place it tend to wear through?
Thanks in advance.
Dave

What I’m finding is at low speeds over the likes of speed bumps the back end is very bouncy, hit a pot hole at a relatively high speed and it feels like the vehicle is completely ridged with no give what-so-ever in the suspension. It’s like it’s trying to over compensate at speed?
Has anybody else experienced similar?

When you hit the speed bumps, does the front bounce also? Or just the rears?
When my rear strut was knackered I had similar issues to what you describe…

The cars air suspension compensated for the suspension so looked to be ok… but as you see from the photo below one was definitely shot!

Click image to enlarge

Ffrr-lover many thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try it out and report back. Out of interest what mileage was your vehicle on when you swapped out those shocks?

My shock was shot when I bought the car at around £115k miles.
I purchased original parts and were about £320 each iirc. Really easy to fit… three bolts at the top, one big bolt at the bottom plus a connector too. Takes no time at all. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html