 | Home > My Range Rover > My L322 Project |
 
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454   
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Following on from my propshaft overhaul to stop the droning, after a run to check it out I noticed the offside rear wheel was pretty warm so I decided to check the brake temps with my thermometer.
Offside disc temp
I would say that my nearside rear calliper is most definitely sticking which wont be helping my fuel economy or the droning noise. I'm going to attempt to overhaul them in the first instance as an overhaul kit is about £30 all in and new TRW callipers are £250 each. Straight on the phone to Rimmer Brothers and two days later:  Christian.
Current Cars 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 2020 BMW M4 Competition 2019 BMW X4 My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project or https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html |
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24th Nov 2021 6:39pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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As the rear brakes are definitely binding I have decided to rebuild the callipers rather than replace them.
Undo the banjo bolt
Two securing bolts to the hub and then you can remove the calliper
Here it is off the car 
The piston was so stuck in the bore that an airline would not pop it out and I had to resort to welding a piece of angle steel onto the piston and using two G-Clamps to pull it out. It was well stuck. 
Here's the piston out of the calliper and the new one next to it, the piston itself was in ok condition for the part behind the dust boot. 
The bore looked nice and clean and undamaged so I continued with the rebuild 
I used my wire wheel on the bench grinder to get off as much crud as I could and then gave it a good dosing of brake cleaner and wiped out all the bores. Cleaning the grooves for the dust boot and seal was nice and therapeutic as a small angled pick made light work of that. Followed by a brass wire brush to get them spotless. Decided to paint them red to match the front ones, this paint takes forever to dry so I sped the process up a bit using a hot air gun as it was freezing outside and I am impatient. 
Fast forward to paint dried and I have rebuilt the calliper with a new piston, seal and boot
Calliper carrier new boots and pins re-greased 
All back on the car 
If it hadn't been for the painting I think this is a 45 minute job. Christian. Current Cars 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 2020 BMW M4 Competition 2019 BMW X4 My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project or https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html |
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25th Nov 2021 10:50am |
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| DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4334 
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Great thread! Some useful pointers for all of us |
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25th Nov 2021 12:12pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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The side steps on my RR were almost complete in their transition from useful back into the iron ore from which they came, they were so heavily corroded I'm surprised they still had the strength to hold the rubber tread.
One of my neighbours works for a fabricators and I asked him if he could bend me some steel and he did one better and made me some channels of aircraft grade galvanised steel. The step diminishes toward the front so I had to cut and bend the front into a smaller width, I used a piece of hardboard to mark the holes for the rubber tread and then drilled a 13mm hole at either end of the slot and then cut between the drilled holes with a grinder. You can see the diminishing width here on the right hand side of the step. 
It appeared that the step is also not straight, neither is the support box section.
I cut a notch out of the box section so that it matched the old one and then welded it up, and did the same with the step itself. Here's the step and the box section cut and slightly kinked to match the old one.
A test fit onto the car 
Then gave the whole lot a good few coats of hammerite, you can see the old one in the bottom of the picture, absolute state. That's the better one of the two, the other one was twice as bad. 
The step reassembled and back onto the car  Christian.
Current Cars 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 2020 BMW M4 Competition 2019 BMW X4 My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project or https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html Last edited by Caesium on 29th Nov 2021 5:30pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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29th Nov 2021 5:23pm |
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| dhallworth Member Since: 10 Oct 2011 Location: Glasgow Posts: 3203 
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That a superb job!
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29th Nov 2021 5:28pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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SO having been a victim of the "Battery Low - Start Engine" warning constantly coming up, I decided on a course of action that means I would replace the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) and see if that helps.
I bought a brand new BMS, part number LR 037886 
This is what you get in the box 
The sticker shows it's been updated somehow.... interesting!! 
Here's the old one and the new one together
Its really straightforward to change them out, remove the battery and battery tray. One of the nuts that holds in the tray is accessible from below within the wheel arch according to the manual but I got it out from above. The BMS itself is just unbolted from the bodywork and has the Positive and LIN bus cables which unplug. The LIN bus cable is the most tricky to replace as it's all taped into the loom and it runs into the cabin and into the distribution panel behind the glovebox. Rather than untape all this wiring I just identified the old cable, cut it and soldered on the new one. In this picture the LIN bus cable is the blue/green one in the centre and it routes into the grommet on the bulkhead. 
Close up of the LIN bus cable 
Cable cut and new one soldered in, note the heat shrink to cover the joint 
All taped back up nice and neatly 
The BMS monitoring cables all routed in - the other blue/green wire with the ring terminal is fused and connected to the live post. The whole new cable loom is covered with convoluted cable protection. You can see the plug that connects to the BMS in the foreground - the unit at the bottom is the fuel burning heater 
Once all connected back up I charged the battery overnight and then left it for 12 hours for the float voltage to settle and then I reset the battery again with IID (I did it when I changed the battery before). Its important to reset the battery when it has been idle for a number of hours or the BMS will not accurately be able to judge the state of the battery due to the artificial elevation of charge caused by engine running or a battery charger. You will be pleased to know I have not seen the battery low warning since. Christian. Current Cars 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 2020 BMW M4 Competition 2019 BMW X4 My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project or https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html |
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1st Dec 2021 5:05pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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When I bought the car the front windows were tinted pretty dark, and initially I thought it looked pretty good.
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4th Feb 2022 10:09am |
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| DaleL322 Member Since: 04 Mar 2021 Location: Stamford Posts: 176 
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Really great write up and thread, keep up the good work |
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7th Feb 2022 2:25pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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These parts arrived today, keep tuned for the next small(!) job to be undertaken
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7th Feb 2022 3:03pm |
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| Jayk69 Member Since: 08 Feb 2018 Location: Daventry Posts: 601 
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nice thread really enjoyed reading that 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
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9th Feb 2022 3:11pm |
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| V8rumbler Member Since: 07 Mar 2018 Location: Devon Posts: 113 
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Great thread 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Stornoway Grey with Jet interior NOW SOLD
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17th Mar 2022 11:34pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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Got the old girl all jacked up and read to start disassembling.
Got the bush puller on there, this is a bush puller for the BMW 3 series which fits the top bush 
It fits the bush a little too well because it got stuck in there and I couldn't get it out!
I managed to get enough purchase on the bush to get it in the vice and then hammer the puller off the bush.
The puller pulled the bush back in perfectly, I used Delphi components as they're as good as OEM. The housing was in great condition, no corrosion within the opening and no burrs. The old bushes were actually in decent condition. 
As it's easy to get access to the adjuster I used a pin punch to mark the original adjustment washer and then transferred it's position to the new one. 
Punch marks aligned, note the copper grease on the end of the bolt, everything was smothered in it.
The height sensor is bolted up using brass inserts within the body of the sensor which simply would not come out. I later found out that a bracket can also be removed but on this occasion I did not know beforehand and space is limited in there. I ended up grinding the heads of the bolts off.
I punched out the insert
Bolted the sensor back in using nuts and bolts, a bit fiddly but meant I did not have to buy new sensors.
I missed out taking photos of the bottom bushes as I pressed on, but I did have to buy another bush puller set as the top bush puller was too small for the enormous bottom bush. D'oh! The track control arm inner bolt simply would not come undone so that also had to be ground off, I cut the nut off in several places and then used a chisel to drive it off the threads.
I marked the bolt head and the chassis with tippex before disassembly to enable refitting in the right position.
Chassis marking with tippex 
I had my alignment done when I changed the front suspension arms and I know the back was within tolerance then which is why when refitting I am happy it is in the right place with these markings. Christian. Current Cars 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 2020 BMW M4 Competition 2019 BMW X4 My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project or https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html |
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23rd Mar 2022 12:30pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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For those following my progress so far, you'll know the front end suspension components were only replaced a few months ago.
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23rd Mar 2022 12:37pm |
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| Caesium Member Since: 21 Sep 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 454
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Lower arms changed again, this time for Delphi arms. Sent the Britpart ones back.
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27th Mar 2022 10:01pm |
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