Thanks for the extra tips.

Still can't manage to hook it, but after blasting the actuator with WD40 and 3 in 1 last night it seems to have freed up this morning. I can only assume the oil has freed it up a bit. Gave it another blast of oil this evening after a good thrashing on the way to work and back

I have a borascope so used the light on the end of it to check I was oiling the actuator.

One more thing to add to the 6 month fettling schedule 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Glad you got it sorted Maybe I should do a write up on it with photos next time round. It is a bit of a to hook but with a steady hand you can get the pivot arm the actuator connects to and wiggle the little blighter. It did take me a few modifications of my "actuator arm wiggling tool" to get it right but I'm confident I can repeat it now.

3 in one spray oil seems to work well ..worked on my D3 too never had another issue after that  09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

I could probably have done a bit more bending of my hook and got there. I thought someone had put a picture on of the access to the actuator, but couldn't find it

I found I could nearly reach the actuator arm via passenger wheel arch, just to tight to get between the turbo scroll case and the actuator motor 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Can you remember what sort of angle you went with the wire to get to the arm? I can hook the thing but only at such an angle from over the subframe that its probably at about 45 degrees below horizontal so when I pull its pretty much trying to pull the arm backwards not downwards if that makes sense. Have soaked it in wd40 anyway to see if loosens of its own accord but struggling to actually get meaningful leverage onto the actual horizontal arm or join.
T

Once you hook the arm it is push down rather than a pull 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

I used a heavy gauge coat hanger, straightened out, and did some heavy duty prodding.

Spray oil in there (such as Ballistol) and prod away.

I think it’s more the ball joint on the actuator that seizes rather than a seizure of the internal vanes.

Just a case of persevering with your “prodder”

Hope that helps 2007 3.6 TDV8

This is the problem, if you pushed it surely you made the arm go up from horizontal? Other people are saying push it to go down and am not sure which way it should go as mine is very seized it seems. The drivers side one has no resistance at all with the engine off and would easily move with a prod but want to try to find out which direction the passenger side one moves before re attempting to move it
T

Just keep stabbing at it and trying the ignition (which will perform the self test of the actuators)

Did I read that you mentioned no loss in performance but you get the fault alarm? That would suggest the arm is seized in the “full load” position.

Sorry, I’m not sure which way the arm would need to be moved to free it up.

By forcibly and repeatedly prodding it, you should be able to break the rust seizure though.

I know from experience how frustrating this is.

Have a look at the below link to give you an idea of the animal you’re trying to cage

 2007 3.6 TDV8

Yeah no perceived change in performance.

IIDTool gives a mismatch in readout for the left hand actuator compared to signal sent to it whereas the right hand one is synchronised if that makes sense. Will take a photo of readout when get home if needed.
But haven't managed to eyeball the actuator at start up yet as been working on my own, The drivers side one can be seen easily at start up with a little nimble repositioning! But am too old to run round the other side, lie on my back, slide under and find the actuator arm before the diagnostic procedure ends!

I think the 'prodding' approach with someone else doing the ignition will be the way ahead.
T

This is a really helpful thread. I have this issue with a FFRR (2011 TDV8) I’m collecting next week so I’ll put my prodding skills to the test!

Is there any information of changing the actuator for a new one (passenger side [UK])? It seems to be a very involved job but I can’t find any instructions on what is involved, any ideas anyone?

Thanks.

This thread describes an issue with the TD 3.6 and yours will be the 4.4 which has a totally different turbo setup. What exactly is the issue you are having? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

The passenger side boost actuator is stuck, it sounds exactly the same issue as has been described.

I’m new to LRs so looking to be educated if the location and actuator arm issue is different on a 3.6 vs 4.4.

Thanks.

Stuck open or closed? any fault codes ? Who diagnosed this? ( Never heard this being an issue on the TD 4.4) 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

It was diagnosed by the garage of the seller. It goes into limp mode when accelerated hard, triggering fault P004B and I believe the actuator in the closed position.

I will do more testing on it in a few days.

I also understand it may just be a leaking pipe.