Hi Kevin,

Here's an excerpt from the Workshop Manual:

"Active regeneration generally occurs every 250 miles (400 km) although this is dependant on how the vehicle is driven. For example, if the vehicle is driven at low loads in urban traffic regularly, active regeneration will occur more often. This is due to the rapid build-up of particulate in the DPF than if the vehicle is driven at high speeds when passive regeneration will have occurred.

The DPF software incorporates a mileage trigger which is used as back-up for active regeneration. If active regeneration has not been initiated by a back pressure signal from the differential pressure sensor, regeneration is requested based on distance travelled."

I'm not certain how you have been measuring your regens, but without an IIDTool you wouldn't ever know if they are going on (note "Successful Regens" is not a robust field while "Demanded Regens" is. The car will run regens even if it doesnt need it.
I am guessing you might be referring to a Yellow Warning light.

The type of oil used in your car will not affect DPF performance, rather the DPF regens will affect the oil as there is a dilution figure. It is worth noting this dilution figure is inferred and calculated by number of regens rather than measured so it's a bit tricky to interpret that figure and take action based upon it.

Hope that helps!...

Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 25th Nov 2021 10:23pm. Edited 3 times in total

That is probably the most helpful explanation of DPF regens that I've seen.

Thank you.

Dunc. The life you have is the only one you'll get; make the most of it.
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2012 4.4 TDV8 L322 Autobiography
2003 TD5 Oslo Blue D2 ES Premium Auto (with mods!)

Ah ha. Very interesting mate and yes I was on about the yellow warning light. I have got an IID tool but I tried to get the DRL's working once and loads of other things stopped working so I don't use it very often. And the DRL's didn't come on either

Range Rover L322 wrote:

The best advice was from Dr Rob which is not to worry too much unless you are not getting Yellow warning light. .

I think you mean "don't worry too much unless you ARE getting a Yellow warning light"
An IID can send you bonkers  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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haha !! editing

So the issue is still not resolved, only getting 30 miles max from an indicated zero burn 😭 I’ve got it booked into a specialist who is going to check all the dpf related parts and perform a high pressure smoke test.

There is no evidence of soot around the new short pipes or throttle body hose and I visually checked the plenum seams when it was off, additionally I wiped down all seams and pipes etc and there are no traces of soot after driving.

Not disregarding another leak but here’s some Food for thought:

We’ve only had the car since October and it’s been out of service for the majority, the only time we’ve used it was to go over to and around Ireland so 2k of fast road driving meaning we probably wouldn’t have got an error as it regenerating correctly (approx 20g). Looking at the state of the throttle body hose it’s been leaking a long time so even if we limited it to the time I’ve had it that’s 2k miles of operation.

If the car has been regenerating as frequently as I’m seeing then over that 2k the car has potentially regenerated 66 times which adds around 16k’s worth of normal regeneration on top of the 100k it’s already had. This 16k could be potentially be doubled or tripled dependant on how long the leak was present with the previous owner.

Very crude maths but essentially the actual mileage on the dpf far exceeds the indicated and with a DPF designed to eventually fail due to ash mine could very well be on that threshold.

Will update on Wednesday 👍🏻

Ash in the DPF has not presented enough substantial and robust evidence as a cause, and most likely not enough to give you your regen frequency on open road driving.

If you would like to have a call and a chat about it, PM me. There is quite a lot of nonsense posted about DPFs, not least the value in things like cleaning them and Terracleaning the engine.

Conversely, the high pressure smoke test will give you a binary result. This is your best next move.

It all gets quite frustrating, and it's easy to drive yourself mad trying to figure it out. I once even gave a mate an old DPF that I knew worked and he bolted it on, as usual it wasnt the DPF, something else entirely. He drove 13 hours round trip to collect that. I reckon the high pressure smoke test will give you a result. If it doesnt you could pick up a second hand DPF and try that to elimiate that as a problem. The DPFs do not really break: as I mentioned before I have been into this in detail. Incidentally the car that had the DPF replaced been driven through a deep saltwater ford then left to stand - the DPF surface had been compromised - also - it was one which had a DPF made during a period when Ford was using poor quality steel from China in late 2011-2012. That's how far down the rabbithole I have gone. I found that out from a guy who has personally had about 40 Land Rovers and builds them as his day job.

So mate, don't worry, we will figure this out.



.

Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 29th Nov 2021 12:38am. Edited 2 times in total

Thank you ☺️

One thing that’s been mentioned to me is the CSOV, I’m not sure if this will cause issues?

I’ve read a few threads and been able to identify where it is and that it is the newer design without the nut. I also read that it can be tested by “making contact” I asked my wife to hit the start button whilst I was peering down and I’m not seeing any movement although I’m not sure I was looking at the right bit. ( I was looking at the arm that’s shown in this pic)

If it is the modified arm with no nut on the top it should be fine.
It doesn’t move until the revs reach 2,500 rpm when the second turbo is called for.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Fixed … finally 🥳

The new pressure sensor was idling at 0.5v which seems to be low compared to the .75v quoted in other comments and threads, this didn’t feel right and made me wonder if that was the last piece of the puzzle. The original sensor was replaced as it was throwing P2452- 95 but I wondered if it was a false positive due to the air leaks, as I still had the old sensor I put it back on and performed the learning routine.

The car was 20g so it kicked off a regen on its own as soon as it could but levels came back up fast from 5G to 12g so initially I thought it was still an issue, however, after a short break I went back on the motorway and noticed there was no soot gain it sat at 12g and then it started passively regenerating!! Around town I was worried it would fill fast but it barely went up at all then on the way home it was dropping again once on the fast roads.

Done around 60 miles of mixed motorway and town over a few journeys and it’s now sitting around 5G, nearly all our journeys are on motorway or A roads so once up to temp our soot levels should remain low … which they are

Massive thanks to all, I’ve only had the car a couple of months and it’s been off the road for the majority as it’s been plagued with problems …. over the moon to have it up and running and hopefully I can start to enjoy it!

Fantastic news, well done.


.

Great news - that new pressure sensor ws irking at me, there are very fw that have had to be replaced plus as we discussed calibration in the WM is not straightforward. Great shout and well done.

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Posting an update as sensor failure is unusual but I have some info that might be interesting.

In the graph below is the original sensor when the induction leak was present



In the graph below you can see the now refitted original pressure sensor after the induction leak was fixed (this was taken on a warm engine) Unfortunately it definitely seems to be faulty with regular voltage drops and a RP with error code P2452-95 is thrown between 300 and 350 where the drops are more frequent but you can see the soot is steady and actually decreasing slightly due to temps and speed.



In the graph below you can see the replacement sensor after the leak was fixed (this was taken on a cold engine hence the flat soot gain for the first part) whilst you don’t see the drops like the faulty sensor what you do see is the range between idle (.55v) and peak (3.4v) are very different to the idle (.75v) and peak (1.5v) you see in the original sensor and other members feedback, you can also see that once the engine warms up the soot increases very quickly! This is very obviously the reason behind the phantom soot levels and dpf full (within 30 miles) message which went when refitting the original.





So could it be I was just unlucky and got a dodgy sensor (it wasn’t genuine it’s a jackoparts herth + bus) or could it have been that the sensor learning routine was carried out when there was a induction leak causing excessive soot? Would be interested to hear from anyone that has fitted a new sensor and followed the WM routine for feedback.

I’ve ordered a new genuine sensor it’s actually a Ford part (dp1000) I’m hoping the idle voltage will be the “usual” .75v and the experience is better

To confirm if anyone needs to replace the sensor then only use 6g9n-5l200-aa dp1000

Whilst the AB is a direct replacement from a Ford perspective they have very different tolerances and it will falsely report the DPF as full in a very short time.

Excellent news! Invaluable information for future reference for folks
Thanks  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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