Merchy wrote:

When working on the suspension, one of these breaker bars is very handy.
Get the type where the head swivels past 90 degrees, bloody handy for awkwardly positioned bolts.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/masterpro-b...-538773840

Also, for seriously tight / seized bolts, ( The below ) flogging spanners are very handy. Whereas you could damage other spanners by hammering, these are designed to take serious abuse from lump hammers. With these, the design has a good face for striking with said hammer, unlike standard spanners with rounded edges.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473341048?ha...SwGOFgpUBr

Oh, and as an aside, a good pair of gloves to avoid any 'hammer rash'

Added to the wish list  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

If you use an impact gun I would recommend getting some impact sockets as you can split normal ones if you exert too sharp a shock to them . 2012 tdv8 Westminster arrived Jan 19 gone Dec 23

200 TDi discovery bobtail gone
RR classic v8 bobtail gone
300 tdi Discovery 3 dr gone

nicedayforit wrote:

Make sure you use 6 sided sockets on the nuts and bolt heads, 12 sided sockets will cause you grief.

XCP is getting good reviews. I will be buying that when I run out of WD40

Forget WD40 for anything other than cleaning or dispersing water. Plus Gas is a great penetrating fluid, do yourself a huge favour, buy it in bulk (5 litres) and get a pump spray bottle. Soak the offending items twice daily for a week before commencing work. Ive never had it fail. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

As for the question earlier on - 'Are there any issues with these anti seize liquids? Such as they cause problems with rubber?'

I would not get any of this on the air bags for instance, but when changing suspension components, most of the time, the rubber parts ( Bushes etc ) are being changed anyway, just clean up the area thoroughly before fitting new components, and avoid any over spray ie brake components etc. Should be ok then.

Have fun with the big hammers. Some say, engineering is knowing what size hammer to pick up, and then how hard to hit something There is an element of truth there

I’ve recently replaced all the front suspension on my 2011.
Didn’t have any seized bolts but I’d sprayed several times over a week with WD40s penetrating fluid not the normal wd40. I don’t think it penetrated the threads that well though. I was after Duck oil but I couldn’t get it in lockdown.

When you’re done, Torque everything back up dry though.

Rob. 2011 (MY12) 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2016 Golf GTI PP

Gone
Audi A4
VW Passat
VW Corrado G60
VW Golf GTI
BMW E30
Mini
Vauxhall Chvette

I use Normfest super crack ultra ice rust removal , never fails amazing stuff . Having spent my working life in engineering I thought I knew a bit but this stuff is magic . 2011 tdv8 4.4 vogue Santorini black

RJH wrote:

When you’re done, Torque everything back up dry though.

Cheers Rob, that’s a fair comment! Obvious when you know… just not when you don’t!

Does the spray leave a residue that needs to be cleaned off before putting things back together? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

paulwlincs wrote:

I use Normfest super crack ultra ice rust removal , never fails amazing stuff . Having spent my working life in engineering I thought I knew a bit but this stuff is magic .

Merchy wrote:

As for the question earlier on - 'Are there any issues with these anti seize liquids? Such as they cause problems with rubber?'

I would not get any of this on the air bags for instance, but when changing suspension components, most of the time, the rubber parts ( Bushes etc ) are being changed anyway, just clean up the area thoroughly before fitting new components, and avoid any over spray ie brake components etc. Should be ok then.

Have fun with the big hammers. Some say, engineering is knowing what size hammer to pick up, and then how hard to hit something There is an element of truth there

Ffrr-lover wrote:

RJH wrote:

When you’re done, Torque everything back up dry though.

Cheers Rob, that’s a fair comment! Obvious when you know… just not when you don’t!

Does the spray leave a residue that needs to be cleaned off before putting things back together?

RJH wrote:

When you’re done, Torque everything back up dry though.

Rob.

Soaking for a few days is a great idea, that said, they are nothing like as bad a D3/4 or RRS for seizing bolts sir

AJGalaxy2012 wrote:

RJH wrote:

When you’re done, Torque everything back up dry though.

Rob.

Thats sound engineering advice with one caveat, the friction encountered with used / rusty nuts, bolts and washers is totally different to new nuts, bolts and washers. I allow some leeway and make sure anti-seize compound is on the threads to save grief in the future. You have to take this into account though if youre going down this route.