I am planning to replacing some suspension parts and am expecting to be met with some seized bolts on the way.

What can I do to help with that?

So I was thinking that I could wire brush away any rust and then spray WD40 on the bolts over the course of several days. The thinking behind this is to give it plenty of time to penetrate to hopefully loosen things before I start with the big bars…

Is WD40 the best stuff for this? Is there a better spray I could use for this?
Or are there other things I can do?

[/i] Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I’m no expert, but if that doesn’t work, I believe there are sprays you can buy to freeze it. Something about the rust bond breaking......

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

SLTH posted recently that he used this stuff, he reckoned it was very good, may be worth a try instead of WD40

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/ac...amp;adurl=

In all the work I did on our 2007 L322 including front & rear suspension I never came across something that was truly seized, you might be pleasantly surprised. I do tend to take them off with a Impact gun, which helps but generally it was all pretty nice to work on.

I wasted most of my time cleaning and painting things  Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

I hope that will be the case TJH1985!

The last time I had suspension arms replaced was on a RRSport and that required lots of swearing, sore knuckles, snapped tools and eventually a reciprocating saw… and plenty of blades.

I know these cars are different, but just didn’t want to get 2/3 of the way through the work to come across a stubborn bolt! I’d rather waste a little time spraying something (or freezing???) just to be sure. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Merchy wrote:

SLTH posted recently that he used this stuff, he reckoned it was very good, may be worth a try instead of WD40

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/ac...amp;adurl=

Cheers for this Merchy. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube vids recently, and a few (US based) videos mention “penetrating spray” but never showed what that was.

Besides… “penetrating” snigger  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I use one of these, it’s either coming undone or snapping either way it’s coming out 🤣

Click image to enlarge

WD 40 is not a very good penetrating fluid.
I have always had much better results using Plus-Gas. Using a wire brush clean off all rust and dirt
then soak the area with the fluid a couple of days beforehand.

Last edited by Strider on 29th May 2021 8:50am. Edited 1 time in total

Ha! Yep, that’ll work!

Oddly enough that’s on my list of tools I want to get… I like the dewalt tools! Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Strider wrote:

WD 40 is not a very good penetrating fluid.
I have always had much better results using Plus-Gas, soak the area well a couple of days before
after wire brushing all loose rust / dirt off.

Make sure you use 6 sided sockets on the nuts and bolt heads, 12 sided sockets will cause you grief.

When working on the suspension, one of these breaker bars is very handy.
Get the type where the head swivels past 90 degrees, bloody handy for awkwardly positioned bolts.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/masterpro-b...-538773840

Also, for seriously tight / seized bolts, ( The below ) flogging spanners are very handy. Whereas you could damage other spanners by hammering, these are designed to take serious abuse from lump hammers. With these, the design has a good face for striking with said hammer, unlike standard spanners with rounded edges.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473341048?ha...SwGOFgpUBr

Oh, and as an aside, a good pair of gloves to avoid any 'hammer rash'

I’ve used this with good results

nicedayforit wrote:

Make sure you use 6 sided sockets on the nuts and bolt heads, 12 sided sockets will cause you grief.

Are there any issues with these anti seize liquids? Such as they cause problems with rubber? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html