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Tg87



Member Since: 09 May 2019
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 
L322 3.6TDV8 Rear Brake Callipers Sticking

Hi, I replaced my rear brake calipers last year when my near side starting sticking. I now have a off side starting to stick. Is this normal after just 12 months? Anything I can do to prevent this?

Post #573880 24th Nov 2020 8:41am
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kevinp



Member Since: 28 Sep 2019
Location: Telford
Posts: 1205

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

Did you use copper grease when installing it. I know it's been used for years but you shouldn't use it on the caliper slides. Search for brake caliper grease and you'll find a set of three greases for different parts of the installation.

Post #573887 24th Nov 2020 10:13am
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Tg87



Member Since: 09 May 2019
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 

Hmm I actually can’t remember if I used copper or a high temp grease. I think it may have been copper. Is this likely to do it?

Post #573892 24th Nov 2020 10:58am
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kevinp



Member Since: 28 Sep 2019
Location: Telford
Posts: 1205

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

If you do use copper grease it really should only go on the back of the pads to help stop squealing. The slides usually have a rubber type grease. Copper grease is to sticky.

Post #573910 24th Nov 2020 1:11pm
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Tg87



Member Since: 09 May 2019
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 

Rightio I’ll give them a clean off and start again this weekend. I think it may have actually been the parking brake. I’ve applied it and reapplied a few times and it seems to have sorted it. Just seems odd because the heat seemed to be coming from the outer of the disk not the hub. When I took the wheel off I could hear the shoes rubbing. It all turns freely now so fingers crossed!

Post #573921 24th Nov 2020 2:36pm
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Tg87



Member Since: 09 May 2019
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 

Ok, did some investigation. Jacked it up and it sounded like the handbrake was dragging on the discs. I used the handbrake and centred the pads. It seemed to be fine. A week later it’s the same issue again.

Tomorrow I’m going to strip it all down remove the discs and give it all a clean re lube etc unless anyone has anything else I should be looking at?

Post #575196 5th Dec 2020 9:24pm
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northernmonkeyjones



Member Since: 24 Mar 2012
Location: derby
Posts: 8504

United Kingdom 2016 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Santorini Black

Make sure you take off and clean/wire brush/file back the rust off the caliper carriers where the pads sit in the anti rattle springs. This is important as the carriers can corrode and grip the pads, and aren’t normally changed along with the calipers.

Unless the pads slip into the stainless springs and move about easily then they will bind in the carrier and you will get overheating.

I use ceratec lube for the ears and back of the pads rather than copper grease. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Post #575201 5th Dec 2020 10:05pm
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D3Jon



Member Since: 15 Aug 2020
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 418

United Kingdom 

kevinp wrote:
If you do use copper grease it really should only go on the back of the pads to help stop squealing. The slides usually have a rubber type grease. Copper grease is to sticky.


Agreed - I definitely wouldn't put copper eaze on the caliper slide pins, I'd think it would degrade the rubber. I use red brake rubber grease if they need anything on the slide pins and ceramic brake grease on the back of the pads and where they contact the caliper. Having said that, there is strong evidence to say that modern pads with in-built shims don't need any brake grease on the back of them.

I've seen video's by professionals on YouTube where they recommend using copper eaze on the caliper slide pins - but would personally disagree with that, as I'm certain that "copper slip/ease/eaze/grease" is mineral based and just like oil or normal grease will degrade the rubbers with time that the slide pins fit snugly into.

Example at around 7mins (WRONG in my opinion) - https://rimmerbros.com/c/Replacing-the-rea...Rover-L322

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Post #575472 8th Dec 2020 11:42am
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D3Jon



Member Since: 15 Aug 2020
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 418

United Kingdom 

Tg87 wrote:
Ok, did some investigation. Jacked it up and it sounded like the handbrake was dragging on the discs. I used the handbrake and centred the pads. It seemed to be fine. A week later it’s the same issue again.

Tomorrow I’m going to strip it all down remove the discs and give it all a clean re lube etc unless anyone has anything else I should be looking at?


I've had a rear brake backing plate corrode which has led to the shoe retaining pin falling into the drum of the rear handbrake causing a brake binding / scraping noise. You might want to make sure nothings got into the drum or anything has broken loose in addition to centering the brakes and re-adjusting.

Also drive slowly for 50 metres or so with the handbrake on to clear any corrosion build up that might have occured if you don't use the PB very much.


Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Post #575474 8th Dec 2020 11:46am
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