Don't forget, marine engines can go for thousands of hours between services as opposed to just a few hundred for a car.
In an emergency a marine engine can be run up in just a few minutes. Will shorten the life of components if done too often.
I tend to take off as soon as possible because I can't give the car any wellie until I get to the edge of my village. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

You should never leave the car to idle and warm up- causes all sorts of problems including to CATS, DPF’s, the oil and just about everything else. Start and drive off, all you need to avoid is going more than 1/2 the rpm limit while cold and using more than half throttle, as you put miles and heat into the engine, increase the throttle input and rpm until the oil is fully warm (different and slower than water temp) then you can run full throttle and revs as you want.

The layman always confuses old school engineering and practices along with race car engineering and practices and just general pub gossip with these ‘I warm it up at idle for 5/10/15 minutes and never had an issue comments... manufacturers tell you to drive off straightaway for very good reasons.

Your oil if within its recommend service life will fully pressurise your engine and have flow everywhere within the first couple of revolutions and seconds. The oil film and passageway/bearing distribution will have been maintained from the last time the engine ran even months later.

This is all different to a new ‘dry’ engine after build where first start needs to be managed well to get the oil around and then bed rings in, again idling is a bad thing. On the flip side, 10-20 seconds of idle at journeys end will allow the turbo to come back to idle rpm and allow the oil to dissipate heat from the turbo bearing cartilage and exhaust housing to stop oil carbonising on the bearing journals.

Stop over thinking it and causing damage and issues.

Speaking as an ex-automotive engineer and oil production and testing background as well.

Corbyn 👍

supershuttle wrote:

I was just wondering if any turbos will be spinning anyway.

Brian Considine wrote:

it cannot do any harm..

Sadly not yet being an L322 owner, what does the owners manual state? I’m interested as being from a marine background and only owning quite vintage vehicles, series Land Rover and a 1942 lorry - no dpf/ Turbos/ emissions regs etc - I’ve entered a discussion where my knowledge runs out. This is a very interesting thread and a good discussion. Learning something new here.

ur20v wrote:

This is plain wrong,

I'm a 'seatbelt on, check mirrors then go gently' guy too.

Anecdotally when I worked on diesel trains we'd have 1,000,000 milers roll in and the complete engine/hydrostatic cradle would be removed for Rolls Royce to inspect them. Typically they'd have cylinder wall wear due to excessive idling and the cause was bore wash and oil contamination due to the engine being at a lower than operating temperature for extended periods of time.

Also anecdotally, I have a BMW 640d and my neighbour has a Mercedes 350d - mine is a straight 6 twin turbo, his is a V6 turbo. We do similar mileage (15-18k/year) but I warm and cool mine and change the oil every 10k miles. He drives his as he wishes and sticks to the manufacturer recommended oil change intervals.
My car is absolutely fine now sitting at 60k miles whereas at 38k miles, his turbo was 'hanging out of it' according to the mechanic who looks after both.

Not very scientific but reinforces my belief that cold engines shouldn't idle or be worked hard, hot components should be cooled, and above all CHANGE THE DAMN OIL!


Finally, in response to the M3 owner specifically - the other thing to be wary of in a performance car is not only the engine oil temperature but that of the gearbox. Many gearbox failures can be attributed to heavy load applied to under or over temperature gearbox oil.
I also own a Noble which uses a Mondeo gearbox originally designed to handle 200lbft. We've seen some catastrophic failures of boxes when running 420lbft or above, yet with some relatively simple adaptions they can, and do, survive 600lbft+ mostly due to maintaining the operating temperature and ensuring the lubrication is in the right place.

Quote:

Finally, in response to the M3 owner specifically - the other thing to be wary of in a performance car is not only the engine oil temperature but that of the gearbox. Many gearbox failures can be attributed to heavy load applied to under or over temperature gearbox oil.

So im guessing a naughty one.

i get in start check my bits before moving off then the foot goes down as far i legally can.

doesnt matter if in the L322 or the D2 i have no mechnical sympathy, but on the same hand i will fix what i break so.......

yeah i should probably be gentler but i dont

Matt If In Doubt Give It A Clout

Previous Vehicles:
Land Rover 110 3.5 V8 (is my dads though)
1.9TD Seat Toledo
1.4 Rover 214 (dont ask)
2.0 Nissan Primera SLX (i want it back)
1.4 Seat Ibiza
996cc Toyota Aygo (I miss this car???)

04 TD5 Discovery 2 (my Current Car)
07 4.2 SC FF (wifes car)

I had an Alfa Romeo back in the day and it had a warning light on the dash that was red until the engine warmed up , the light would then flicker a few times and go off and you were good to go  2015 4.4 AB
GSXR 1000 K5
R1 1998

appj62 wrote:

In an emergency a marine engine can be run up in just a few minutes. Will shorten the life of components if done too often.

They can be done faster . We installed some telemetry onto a RN Frigate / Minesweeper. Engineers could get the gas turbines from cold to full power in sub 30s, useful in a pinch. Captain loved them for it, not sure what the manufacturers thought... Ed

my car revs itself to 1200 till warm then drops to 650rpm. i just wait for that and set off. if put it into drive before it does that it'll cancel the autorev.

Seatbelt, start and go for me.

1. It has the engine management systems on it anyway to manage all that stuff. It is not like the old days where you have to do it yourself.
2. It's a 5.0V8 SC in my case, don't want to waste a gallon of fuel just letting it idle on our drive way
3. Music will start playing from my phone anyway, no intervention or fiddling required.