Good evening

This is my first post on a car forum for some time, so hello all

This one relates to the thread,

>> How to change Td6 automatic gearbox<< oil by "adara", great write up on this forum.

My question is the following : -

My L322 had a reconditioned gearbox fitted back in 2011 at 110.000 miles (Receipt to prove), the car is now on 185.000, so its done its job. However I wanted to action some preventative maintenance due to its high mileage.

I was able to get 7 litres of oil out of the sump & filter (oil warm) and not 9 litres as Adara did. There were no debris in the gearbox oil at all, it had clearly discoloured compared to the new fluid I was putting in it, but the old oil was more of a darker red (a long way to go until it got to black!!!)

I rung a specialist who only services and repairs the GM5 and ZF5 gearbox in the L322 and X5.
They state that after a rebuild they add in the bottle of Lucas stop slip, to their rebuilt gearboxes to assist the longevity of these gearboxes.

I couldn't progress any further today due to wind (oil going everywhere) and the pan gasket and filter was completely the wrong one, so need to take it back tomorrow so I thought id ask the question quickly before I continue tomorrow, where i'll be topping up the fluid with the engine running (at the magic 35-45 degrees C)

My question is, should I add the Lucas additive stop slip, or not ? The transmission was operating fine before hand (reconditioned unit at 110.000 remember) but as I was advised it was something the specialist did, I figured I would action the same.

I've read all about the Texaco fluid "texaco etl 7045e" debate, That oil was the original back them, things have moved on........ I've just decided to go with a fully syn ATF by comma (MVATF1L) that was listed as being compatible at the motor factors and I've subsequently looked on the comma web site myself.

The specialist stated they use the Euro car parts ATF Plus + fluid in these and they have had no issues relating to the fluid at all

Link relating to the stuff I've bought
https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/180

I will be towing with this vehicle (but not all the time)

Many thanks

Stay safe !

The manufactures of the gearbox and the car maker don't use or recommend any additives....

IMHO they are a waste of time...

Others will be along shortly to disagree...

The point is that it's your car, your gearbox and your money, you have to do what feels right to you...!!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks Haylands

I've also got a 2000 v8 WJ G Cherokee outside that I've had for well over 10 years, I didn't use any additives in that when I put carlube ATF U in it but those gearboxes (can't remember the codes now was a long time ago) don't suffer the same fate as these.

The fluid was swapped because it was a bit bangy, that soon disappeared.... still going strong.

As Pete says, put in whatever you feel happy with. Dexron is fairly straight-forward stuff, and the only downside of going from Dexron III to VI is the lower viscosity – especially if your transmission is getting worn and the clearances are high.

The problem with messing around with friction modifiers is that they could potentially put your PWM solenoids beyond their adaption range and you could end up with uncontrolled clutch slip. On the other hand, the L322 GM 5L40-E transmission has a shocking reputation for premature wear of the valve bodies, and a friction modifier could possibly help with this.

Phil

thanks Mazza, I'm going to get some from MVATF PLUS from Dunmow Motor Factors tomorrow

my Torque converter was replaced back in Nov 2015, and its time for an ATF flush and renew, I don't believe all the hype with these Closed Systems ( oil for life ) stuff anymore !

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic54406.html

the best deal for ATF ( Automatic Transmission Fluid) that I can find locally is 10 litres of Febi Mobil LT71141 for £90 quid, so I think the time has come to change the ATF and get some MVATF PLUS



DUNMOW MOTOR FACTORS LTD, UNIT 2 THE FLITCH IND EST, DUNMOW CM6 1XJ Tel: 01371 874644

Hi

When I changed my gearbox oil I used the original Texamatic oil that it would have originally been filled with. As a precaution I also added a tube of Dr Tranny. The car had covered 97,000 miles and I was told that the gearbox had been refurbished at around 80,000 miles. When I dropped the oil it was still red and clear so, at the very least, it had already had been given an oil change.

That was 7000 miles ago and the box is as smooth as a new car.

Jim

Last edited by jim4244 on 12th May 2020 7:52am. Edited 2 times in total

pcourtney wrote:

thanks Mazza, I'm going to get some from MVATF PLUS from Dunmow Motor Factors tomorrow

my Torque converter was replaced back in Nov 2015, and its time for an ATF flush and renew, I don't believe all the hype with these Closed Systems ( oil for life ) stuff anymore !

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic54406.html

the best deal for ATF ( Automatic Transmission Fluid) that I can find locally is 10 litres of Febi Mobil LT71141 for £90 quid, so I think the time has come to change the ATF and get some MVATF PLUS



DUNMOW MOTOR FACTORS LTD, UNIT 2 THE FLITCH IND EST, DUNMOW CM6 1XJ Tel: 01371 874644

pcourtney wrote:

thanks Mazza, I'm going to get some from MVATF PLUS from Dunmow Motor Factors tomorrow

my Torque converter was replaced back in Nov 2015, and its time for an ATF flush and renew, I don't believe all the hype with these Closed Systems ( oil for life ) stuff anymore !

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic54406.html

the best deal for ATF ( Automatic Transmission Fluid) that I can find locally is 10 litres of Febi Mobil LT71141 for £90 quid, so I think the time has come to change the ATF and get some MVATF PLUS

DUNMOW MOTOR FACTORS LTD, UNIT 2 THE FLITCH IND EST, DUNMOW CM6 1XJ Tel: 01371 874644

yikes, thx Peter

I better not add any MVATF PLUS then, just stick to my ATF flush plan with the Febi Mobil LT71141

Yep, just use the correct straw coloured oil...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

£90 !! - thats a lot of money on oil.
Put your reg in the comma web site, see what it comes back with.

Might be food for thought

indeed mazza, good find - only £53 delivered for 10 litres - happy days

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Comma-Fully-Syn...SwE9xd8ibJ

Why do people never listen...

Just use the correct recommended oil and stop trying to save a few quid...

A gearbox rebuild is far more...

Don't believe everything they write on the side of an oil can... you have NO COMEBACK AT ALL.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

+1 for Haylands reply, how anyone can justify using the wrong lubricants just to try and save next to nowt is beyond me.
A gearbox oil change every 50K miles for £100 is negligible when looking at running costs.
Forums are full of stories of expensive failures along with posts about “what is a cheaper alternative to xxxx?” or “can I run a diesel on chip fat?”etc.
I can’t help but wonder if there’s a link?

Its not just what they write at the side of an oil can, If the gearbox specialists who rebuild the GM5 and the ZF5 only all day every day say that they use the same stuff that I purchased then I think they know what there talking about as well ??
As I said at the beginning of the thread, things have moved on from the original fluids used almost 2 decades ago, so i'm happy to move along with the times

As I had to re-attach the sump pan due to wrong transmission service kit being sent I put the vehicle back on the floor so I could shut the door, suspension do its thing and lock it !!
Coming back to it today I had another 0.6 litres that had drained into the pan, so i'd definitely recommend an overnight drain if you're able to so 7.6/7.7 laters inc a bit of spillage I was able to get out of the box.

(I wasn't happy to start it up for a few seconds to let the rest of the fluid get out of the pipework/torque converter if i'm honest, I know i've read that some people do that)

I mixed in the Lucas additive in the 2 litre container I was using for measurement to pump the fluid back into the box again so it all mixed in well.

As per the procedure I read on the forum originally, I was able to get the 7.6 litres I originally took out, back in the box again fresh with the box warmed up.

Some pics attached you can see the colour of the old oil, and that's only 70.000 of that oil in this gearbox

Thanks all for your replies regarding this