Changing mine next week. Pretty sure that I have everything. Sump pan & new bolts, sleeve & new fill plug, 7 ltrs of ZF lifeguard 6. This post & RRPhil's tightening sequence. Wish me luck, I just know something will go wrong

@ Highroller, don't forget to tap out the threads  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

My threads were all perfect & had zero problems removing or replacing the bolts. Of course condition will vary with usage/environment. They will probably be OK.

Update so far. Oil drained & as per Pawl's comments good to see a reddish colour with no debris on the magnets (Removed 5.5 ltrs).
Changed the sleeve, nice click once the connection is made (good you tube video of this by Atlantic British). Cleaned the mating surface with a scratch pad, run the threads through with a tap, Although all bolts initially came out easily.

New sump up with new bolts (10 Nm feels a lot surprisingly when you're tightening the bolts). Currently only managed to get 2 ltrs back in at the moment, as I need to take a trip to Halfords to obtain a pump.

Joe90, I take the pump helps to add the fluid quickly when it's running. Did you just have it ticking over in Park whilst adding the fluid?.

I've been putting this off for a long time, but pretty straight forward so far.

Yes, when you are ready with bottles of Lifeguard under the car and your pump, and you have got as much in as you can with the engine off, start the car, then dive under and start pumping. You also need to monitor the transmission oil temp, as the fluid level check should be done at between 30 and 50 degrees (not below or above). As soon as it starts dribbling out again, get into the drivers seat, foot hard on footbrake, and slowly work your way through the gears, 3 seconds in each. Also go across to command shift (manual) and up into 3rd then down to 2nd and 1st ( I got quite a clunk when going into 1st!). Once done, back underneath and pump some more. When it starts dribbling again put filler plug back in. Job Done  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

You also don't have that much time before the oil temperature moves out of range (may be better with the diesel, but the temperature rises quickly with the supercharged).

If it does, pop the filler plug back in, switch off, allow to cool and repeat.

All done & no issues. Went through all the gear selections without any clunks etc. Drove ok without any issues. Very pleased.

Can anyone tell me if the Mobil 1 oil for the 5hp24 would cause this box a problem? I bought 20 litres of the stuff for my old 4.4 and have a good 10 l left and it wasn’t cheap Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

My opinion is if it’s the correct spec then it’s fine, others may have a different opinion. Oil make debates are always interesting’ and almost always based on antidotal evidence or pure conjecture and bias to a particular brand.

So take my opinion and any others with a pinch of salt... it’s your money and vehicle. 👍

The 5HP24 has different oil spec I'm afraid. I wouldn't use anything apart from the correct ZF lifeguard fluid.

I don’t think they would do this unless you specifically requested it, as they say it’s sealed for life.

I did it a couple of years ago, without going as far as a mega-flush.

Edited to say this was in reply to a post that seems to have gone  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Danwilderspin wrote:

Can anyone tell me if the Mobil 1 oil for the 5hp24 would cause this box a problem? I bought 20 litres of the stuff for my old 4.4 and have a good 10 l left and it wasn’t cheap

DONT put it into a 6HP box

Ok so I have to buy 7 1 litre bottles? I see on eBay kits with the plastic filter for £190 all in with 7 bottles of zf?

Is the Febi bilstein flue is any good as it is rated for it? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Febi oil is decent stuff. Used it a few times over the years when I've struggled for Ravenol stuff

Had my transmission oil changed over 3 years and 15000 miles ago at my local indy. Noticed in the last year or so that gearbox was reluctant to change up when starting from cold but otherwise OK. Also noticed more recently that getting oil onto drive but not excessively. Whilst underneath the car, sorting out my rear subframe, noticed a drip from the gearbox drain plug.
I tried tightening up but was not convinced.
After much dithering I purchased a sump pan and oil from AF. I managed to drain approx 5 litres of oil from the gearbox. (Had a suspiciously red tinge to it). The pan was quite clean with no sludge and the magnets had only a thin film on them so was confident no problems with the box. Following Tim and Paul's steps, managed to get 5.5 ltrs of fresh oil back in to the box. Went for test drive and all well. I'm going to get some more oil and replenish more next year.
As an aside, I did try using a small 12V oil pump to refill the box. This was a disaster with oil spraying all over the place. I did have a I ltr Draper manumatic pump which took ages but not as long as the clean up from the electric pump. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984