So, just back from a weeks holiday in the Highlands, 2000 miles later and I now have a pretty good feel for it

Just reinforces what an awesome mile muncher these things are, knocked off an 8 hour drive back yesterday with only a couple of 15 minute loo breaks and it is just soooo easy

Also 5 days of hacking around B roads and single tracks in the highlands proves how comfortable and capable they are on twisty, lumpy stuff as well.

Had a few A8's and a 7 series which were equally good mile munchers but yesterday coming over the Pennines as Storm Callum did its worst with the M6 under water was an experience I wouldn't have enjoyed even in the A8's but the Rangie just powers on through when everyone else is sliding off the road - was pretty intense at times though

Even though we took it up day after I bought it it behaved pretty much flawlessly, no faults "bongs" or failures

Slight whine which is worse when driving on very wet roads that I need to investigate, will probably change the diff oils to see how fresh they are.

Couple of pics of it on hols

3 months and 4000 miles in and the FF has been faultless, really happy with how it goes. Bit thirstier than had hope (26mpg average) but it isn't half rapid when it needs to be

Over the last couple of weeks it has been developing a bit of a hot oil smell so checked underneath and sure enough it has the standard oil leak fault. Basically the oil cooler gasket or the o-rings on the pipe into the back of the cooler fail/harden and it weeps oil. Loads of info on it in this post here https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic35977.html

Rather than just fix one part or the other I decided to do both at the same time whilst everything was stripped down. If you don't want to wade through 20 pages of info in the other post, this is the sequence of events.

1. Open bonnet and admire TDV8





2. Remove 2 x 13mm nuts at each end of the plenum chamber and the rubber bonnet seal above



The plenum chamber will then just pull forward with a bit of a tug.



3. Pull out the spring clip on the air intake hose



remove the electrical plug to the bottom left



and then remove the sensor plug underneath



Note:to remove this plug put a flat blade screwdriver into the side and lever upwards



Release the large jubilee clip at the opposite end of the air intake pipe.

4. CAUTION: before you pull the pipe off take special notice of this small water pipe circled in the pic below. You may notice there is a lot of water suddenly appeared. This is because the spigot this pipe goes onto is immenseley BRITTLE and will snap off with the smallest provocation. You can't replace the plastic junction it goes into so you have to buy the complete hose assembly at £80 odd




5. Having taken suitable precautions remove the air intake hose.

6. Unclip the wires that run across the top of the air intake manifold, the clips just lever off, and disconnect what I think is the MAP sensor next to them



7. Undo the two nuts holding the engine cover mounting plate and remove and also unclip the electrical connector from its mounting on the back of the manifold. (these slide onto a plastic clip and can be slid off)



8. Undo the two bolts securing the EGR pipe collar(?), the single nut holding the pipe to its mount and also release the plastic clip used to hold a wire to it.



9. Now remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) that mount the manifold - note they are not the same length so note which side has the longer ones.



10. Unclip the valve on the water pipe that probably broke off at point 4




11. You can now undo the clips on the 4 rubber boots that join the manifold and slide these INWARDS onto the manifold.





12. There are 4 stud/bolts that hold the front mounting plate of the mainfold inplace. The front two of these have the plastic mounting pegs for the engine cover on them which need to be undone with a Torx. Underneath these are the studs which use an inverted/female Torx bit (size in the pic)





13. The manifold complete with throttle body should now come away easily



So thats the intake mainfold removed probaly will take you about an hour or two depending on how agile you are and how many cups of tea you drink .

Now you can get on with the actual task in hand - removing the oil cooler

To be continued......
[/url] 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Last edited by mm289 on 14th Jan 2019 8:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

While you’ve got it off, replace the 4 short manifold hoses onto the plenum. These are renowned for failing at some point and are about £100 for a set. did mine the other ween and the intake plenum needed to come off for that. Also remove the throttle body from the front end of the plenum, and give it a good clean.

Be careful when playing with the cooler as there is potential for water into the oil contamination when you remove it. Potential to lunch the engine at this point!

Taking that mounting plate off is an easier way of getting the plenum off, I undid the 3 upside down screws holding the plenum to that plate. Which is very fiddly!!!! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Moving on to what we came here to do This is my oil cooler, looked pretty messy so suspect the seal was leaking here.






1. Undo oil filter about 3 turns and leave there to allow oil to drain out

2. Undo this retaining nut, unclip the two plastic tags from the studs on the retaining plate and unclip the remaining electrical connector.





3. Undo the clip from the retaining plate that the EGR sensor wire is clipped to.



4. The pipe that runs along the back of this plate needs to be free to allow the plate to come off the oil cooler. there is a mounting nut buried between the back of the engine and the bulkead on the driver (R/H) side. Undo and remove this.



5. You can then remove the two nuts that hold this pipe onto the plate and also the 3 nuts that hold the plate onto the oil cooler



6. On the R/H side of the cooler looking from the front are two water pipes, 1 has a clamp the other a spring clip. release these. About 500ml of coolant will come out.




7. On the back of the cooler is the oil pipe that is the other main cause of leaks when the o-rings fail. Undo the nut and lever out pipe.



8. You can now undo the 10 retaining bolts and lift the cooler/oil filter out as a unit



Job done

Now for the cleanup.....  2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Fantastic guide!
. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

As NMJ says, try to avoid water contamination into the oil, I let the water drain out fully from the connections before removing the cooler then used a suction tube to suck out all the remaining oil and water from the mounting plate.



The inside of the manifold and throttle body, in keeping with most diesels I have worked on is SHOCKING

This is what the intake manifold looks like




The throttle body was much the same.



So first off scraped out what I could and collected this



...and the MAP sensor



Everything then went through the parts washer, scrubbed, cleaned and polished - well maybe not polished and new seals fitted with a smear of clean oil.





On reasembly these were the Viton O rings, ordered from bearing boys and compared to original...



The oil cooler seals for mine (2011 4.4 TDV8) were ordered from Dan, part no's 077242 & 022903

And that's it, all put back together (reverse of above process, pretty much every bolt/nut is 10Nm torque) and hopefully no more leaks.

Cheers,

Paul. 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Wow, that is some great documentation! 2010 RR SC
2007 RR SC

Good work Paul.

Great pics and write up.

Thanks guys, hopefully contributes to the overall usefulness of this great site

Cheers,

Paul. 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Does anyone know the torque settings for the bolts around the oil cooler.

Apologies just read the post 3 up and saw 10nm

Stan - is this in the wiki? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

yes it is Rob... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Thats a cracking looking car that is factory and thats the best way. Glad you got your issues sorted.

Swapped the 2 oil cooler seals and oil pipe O rings on mine yesterday.

Slightly different strip Down method on my l405 as strut braces had to come off, wipers off, scuttle pannel off, plastic bulkhead off. Then all is readily accessible and follows the same method as detailed here.

Excellent guide thanks to the OP. made me feel more confident as I was really dreading breaking my pride and joy.