Anyone fitted the above for easy charging /jump starting?
If so where and how did you mount the plug to the front grill/bumper

On my L322 I just left it on top of the battery - didn’t really need external access -

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic19907...p;start=15

On m y L405 I’ve run the cable closer to the front, but still under the bonnet

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic41648.html

Ideally want an external point so i can plug in and charge without opening bonnet especially if car is locked and to save faffing around with manual key opening
Looked in side vent but doesnt appear to be any easy access through to engine bay so prob mount under front bumper with waterproof cap for easy access and jump starting

I have a crek connection cable fitted in the boot of my car with the +ve terminal connected to the cable supplying the rear fuse board and the -ve terminal connected to an earth point on the bodywork behind the offside compartment panel.
The cable comes out of the compartment at the bottom corner and about 500mm is available in the boot area for connecting a Ctek charger.
This means I can have the charger sitting in the locked boot area whilst charging.
The charger is connected to a 240V 1.5mm² cable extensión lead which is passed through the closed boot at the extreme left or right at the top of the lower tailgate.
This position allows the cable to pass into the boot without being nipped at all.
I use this to charge the two batteries I have installed in the car without issue, either singly or both together, never had any bother with the arrangement.
Possible food for thought

can't you charge via the towing socket with an adaptor?

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Assuming you have a towing socket...... and that it’s either a 13 pin or dual 7 pin - the single 7 pin socket doesn’t have a permanent live

With an external socket you need a long enough cable to keep the charger dry - I guess you could place the charger under the car, but I’d rather have it inside and just run a power cable to the mains socket

Anderson connector fitted under the rear bumper, cables run up and through the grommet for the RH taillight assembly, then, via a self-resetting circuit breaker, to connect to the 50A cable (on the rear fuse/relay panel in the RHS rear) which connects to the main battery in the front. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Thanks all
P38arover yours sounds ideal set up for my needs
Would you be able to jump start from another vehicle from your connector wired into the rear loom?
I want to be able to charge in situ but also be able to take a jump start from another vehicle and provide a jump start if necessary using jump leads with anderson connector end and crocodiles

On my former 322 I had a MagCode Socket installed on the driverside (leftside) side ribs or what ever you call them.
So, comming home simply pluged the CTeck to the MagCode Plug.
https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/Rosenberger/r...ersystems/
Now on the new one I want a dual battery system and some sort of external charging plug near the tow bar.
On the other hand I still fancy with the MagCode solution.

Leesbay wrote:

Thanks all
P38arover yours sounds ideal set up for my needs
Would you be able to jump start from another vehicle from your connector wired into the rear loom?

Thanks mate, your probably right, more for occasional top up charging and as long as the doors open i can jump start from battery terminals

Just wondering if Alister could chip in with some more info... 😀

I got the ctek comfort connector for my birthday and would like to fit it to the jump terminals as you have done. I can see from the picture generally how you fitted it but just had a couple of questions...

For the postive terminal - how did you mount the eye? I removed a bolt/screw from the black plastic housing but the left side appears held in place by another clip or something, does it just pull up with a bit of force - or do you fit it in a different way that doesn’t require its removal at all?

For the negative terminal - looks like you used a spanner on the base of the post, removed it placed the eye over it and put it back in, but did you undo the nut or use pliers and just remove the post out of that nut, and finally if I undo this post does anything drop from under the bodywork?

Sorry for the detailed questions but having a minor bravery failure!!

The earth point just screws out - the body underneath is threaded - I used a deep socket, but spanner would be fine.

TBH I can't remember on the positive - but that likely means it wasn't too hard either - my wife is out in the car at the moment but I can take a look later & see if I can figure out what I did

Click image to enlarge

Great, thanks for coming back, I’m going to take a look again tomorrow, if you can let me know about the positive that would be fantastic!

I’m fairly sure it was undo the bolt on the top of the photo then big screwdriver underneath to pop out the fixing on the other side which just pushed back in again afterwards.

Then there’s nut to undo on the underside of the post