This how to is how I managed to change all idlers, as I was doing this alone I did it without removing the lights, bumper, crash bar & full rad pack & risking damaging it.

It is a fiddly job with limited access but can be done with a bit of patience.

Tools
Various sockets between 8 & 21mm I used short & long versions.
Tx50 torx bit.
Short extensions.
Ratchet (I recommend a Proxxon rotary ratchet you’ll thank me later!)
36mm Viscose fan spanner & tool to hold pulley (I made mine)
Mole grips or hose clamp tool.
Flat blade screwdriver.
Thick cardboard.
Antifreeze (ensure its correct spec)
Gloves or bags to cover the air intake pipes to prevent debris contamination.

In advanced spray penetrating oil on all of the 10 bolts around the fan shroud perimeter.

Download the Workshop Manual from WIKI and from it the below sections / guides to show bolt locations, routing & procedures.
Fan removal pages,
Coolant bleeding process.
CSOV removal
Belt layout

Put it on ramps if you can and it goes without saying & axle stands, I did it in extended mode & was extremely tough (with axle stands).
N/S & O/S based on UK vehicle.

Disconnect the battery.

I started underneath, as once you’ve started draining fluid it’s dripping on you if you didn’t.

Underneath
Remove engine under tray.
At the rear of subframe in the middle unbolt the 2 oil cooler bolts & remove the carrier bracket, DO NOT disconnect the hoses. This allows a bit more access.

On n/s of fan shroud is the CSOV remove the U shaped hose & hose connecting it to the intercooler. Remove the 3 bolts holding csov to fan shroud as located in the WM, disconnect wiring & vacuum hose. The csov can remain here for now.

Remove the 8mm & 10mm screws around the bottom & side of shroud as per WM (1 is hidden in a recess where csov was bolted)

From Above
Remove engine cover, remove both air filter boxes (wiring & a breather pipe on o/s one), charger pipe & cover with a glove or similar, careful of fragile coolant pipe.
Unbolt the 2 air pipes that were connected to air boxes on either side of rad & un plug wiring on n/s of rad / cowling, label where they go with maskingtape.

Remove bolts around upper perimeter of shroud, there is one at 9 o’clock hidden inside the fan opening (you can see it if carefully peek between shroud & rad with rest of bolts removed) access it through the fan opening.

Loosen coolant hose at rad & drain into suitable catch tray (I only partially drained the cooling system), remove coolant pipes from N/S top of rad & connected pipes to top of block, be careful as this plastic connector is fragile.
Unbolt the 2 bolts securing the clips on the metal aircon pipe to the top of fan shroud (DO NOT separate / split the aircon pipe)

To protect the rad slide some thick cardboard between the rad & shroud / fan & temporarily loosely replace middle top bolt to support the shroud.

Loosen viscose fan (left hand thread) with fan tools (I made one from a piece of steel plate) don’t let the fan fall into the rad. Now holding the fan & shroud at 12 o’clock, Push Aircon pipe work a little towards engine you remove middle shroud bolt (the one you temporarily replaced) and you can wiggle the shroud & fan out together being careful not to damage the rad.

Remove the 2x bolts holding metal coolant pipe in front of idlers, a spring clip holds it to top of engine & drain into a container under engine.


You can now access all pulleys

The Idlers have a cap over the bolt heads & use either a tx50 or socket. I labelled each idler as I removed them with corresponding number on the belt layout page 7,9,11,14 etc as each is different.
So you can match the replacements.

If doing water pump crack loose the 3x bolts on pulley before removing the belt. just enough to break them loose, don’t remove them yet. (I couldn’t do the water pump as they went available in UK at the time. I did it at a later date from above without the need to remove the shroud)

Using a 21mm socket & breaker bar release the tensioner & remove aux belt
Remove the idler above the tensioner then the 2x tensioner bolts are accessible. Remove each idler & when removing water pump ensure bucket underneath to catch fluid.

Pulley belt layout as per downloaded routing diagram & ensure belt is sitting in pulleys correctly when re fitting.
Fan belt requires special tool to re fit. I think it’s achievable without but I’ll tackle this when water pump is available. Aux belt can be routed ok with this belt in situ.


Refit is reverse of removal.

Ensure coolant hose from bottom of expansion tank to head above water pump isn’t twisted in any way as it’ll rub on the pulley (it’s a £250+ pipe, ask me how I know!!!)

Torque settings are listed on each of the relevant WM pages

Top up antifreeze & bleed as per WM & keep eye on it for a few runs to ensure no air locks.

No more squeaky idlers & belts

Pretty straightforward job, frustrating and took me a while with restricted access. Proxxon ratchet made it much easier once it arrived.

Rob. 2011 (MY12) 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2016 Golf GTI PP

Gone
Audi A4
VW Passat
VW Corrado G60
VW Golf GTI
BMW E30
Mini
Vauxhall Chvette

Great write up thank you for spending the time to do it

Agreed, cracking write up. A job in my future so I'm very grateful for you spending the time documenting it so clearly

Thank you 2011 Vogue SE Tdv8 FFRR

Excellent write up! I’ll be tackling this over the next week so extremely helpful! Thank you! Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I’m doing this job now, got everything out and have replaced the tensioner and idlers around it, now I need to do the other side. The aluminium pipe that’s obstructing the last two has been unbolted but not disconnected in any way, do I just disconnect the top and move it out the way or does it need to come out?

Many thanks

Click image to enlarge

Do you mean the pipe to the left of the engine as you face the car?
I don’t recall what I did exactly, but looking at a photo I see that it would need to be disconnected from the top. I definitely recall having to move it out of the way to get the belt back on, so definitely stayed in the car. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Yes, it’s to the left and runs diagonally across one of the pulleys and the alternator.

Click image to enlarge

Yep that’s the one. You unscrew it, pop the top two clips and it pulls away.
BE CAREFUL one clip stays, but the other can pop and ping off! (I’m pretty sure it was the right one)

I am also part of the “while I’m there” club. Given the hassle getting this far, its a small ask to do the alternator too. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Awesome thanks for the heads up I’ll see if I can get that done tomorrow then (doing little bits at a time due to time restrictions)

I’m going to need to do the fan belt too as it’s frayed on one of the edges, I have a tool for that made by lisle but not sure if it’s going to work as it’s not deep enough on the remove side :/

We shall see 😂😂

I used one of these for the belt. A little fiddly… but worked well
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WVYK3MJ/ref...&psc=1

Have you downloaded a copy of the workshop manuals from the wiki? Lots of useful information… including the belt route around the pulleys. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Mine is similar- Lisle Tool's 59370 Stretch Belt... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AC60VEC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

At least I know it can be done with that now 😉

Yes thanks, I have the manual it’s been a godsend especially when tracking down hidden screws that one at 9 o clock inside the shroud had me puzzled for a while 😂 i’m plodding through it and learning loads, this is by far the biggest job I’ve done.

Nice info for the belt stretcher. My last pulley is arriving tomorrow. Just got to get some coolant and I'm ready to get on with it.