kbald wrote:

You could have it on its side in a vice with a plate or something holding the pour in place while it sets pretty easily I would think. Just a thought but could be a cheaper and easier option than poly bushing or replacing the whole arm. Alternatively maybe some tiger seal or equivelant in the voids could work as that is pretty thick and sticky as!

Nice one GDM.

Updates please once you get them on.

And especially desperate to hear what you think of the ride and road feel once they're in.



. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Interesting. I had thought that the rather complicated shape of the rubber bush on the TCA was designed to allow some movement to cope with steering geometry through full lock and suspension height changes which are considerable on the FF if used off road. If a solid bush, even if made from rubber 'would do' why would LR not have done that? Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

Nick, you've raised a few good points - I've been trying to get my head around the OE rubber design.

Now I'm suddenly less convinced this is the way to go....

You can buy new arms with the bushes pre-fitted as we all know and those Poly bushes are £75 a pair so price-wise there's not much in it.

Fitting (with new arms as opposed to pressing the bushes in & out) again not much in it.


.. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

I've followed this thread from the start.

A few things I don't get.

Parts; polybushes are more expensive than complete replacement arms with bushes already fitted. £75 vs £40 +-

"At home" labour is vastly different than "garage" labour. You won't want to be paying a mechanic £50-£100/hour to be swearing and sweating over 'welded in' bushes.

To fit polybushes the arms need to be removed and then all sorts of effort and time is involved removing the old bushes and fitting the new bushes before refitting to the vehicle. Costing a whole chunk.

To fit complete new units, as above the arms need to be removed, but then here is the no brainer, new complete arms can then be directly bolted on. Job done, replacement from the arm off situation to a new arm on situation 15mins tops.

I've just done the whole of the front of my L322 with all new complete parts. The only sticking points were the famous bottom ball joints requiring the quick fix of removing the hub and then belting them with a long handled hammer against solid concrete. Probably saved more than a few hours banging away under the vehicle.

Replacing bushes in this manner was great and one of the only ways available before China was discovered by Internet Pioneers in the early 2000's.

Gone are my days of sitting in the gravel trying to burn bushes out of the bottom of a Series Landie and hoping that the rubber fire will remain local, before I could remove the leaf springs. Oh to be young again.

Cheers, Rich

I tried replacement TCAs about 3 years ago (along with radius arms, ball joints and ARB links) and they weren't the cheapest available. Just over a year later I was getting an advisory on the MOT for wear in the bushes, then a knocking from them, hence my decision to try the Powerflex bushes this time. The genuine LR TCAs might last a decent amount of time but they are well over £200 each.

My Power-Flex bushes are now fitted. Tomorrow I'll get first impressions on bumps and ruts, fast gravel and sealed roads before embarking on a 5,000 km mostly on-road trip then shortly afterwards a 3,000 km trip with a reasonable percentage being outback tracks.

I couldn't budge the first bush in-situ using a bush-removal tool and an air impact wrench but both ball-joints separated easily with the nut protecting the end of the thread sitting on a jack and a few hard thumps on the arm with a small sledge-hammer. A 10-tonne press pushed-out the old bushes.

Almost immediately I decided that the bushes introduced a harshness that I'm not prepared to put up with so new normal bushes will be sourced ASAP. Vibrations from the stones in bitumen are felt through the steering wheel. I'm surprised that the manufacturer has persisted with the production of these for our vehicles as I doubt that anyone would be happy with the ride, Hence I will have to look forward to replacing bushes at every 2nd engine oil change unless the ones last fitted are subsequently shown to have been faulty.

Thanks for letting us know Graeme shame your time and money was wasted
. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

GDM how have you got on?
. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

I refitted the removed driver's side one inside out to use the good sides whilst I wait for a new set.

gonna_go_double_r wrote:

GDM how have you got on?
.

Changed the arm on the other side yesterday evening and took the car for a run. The ride doesn't seem to be too bad at all. It felt a little less compliant on the smaller, rougher roads, but once on A and B roads it felt fine. It has 20" stormer wheels with 275/45 tyres, so I guess the sidewalls are fairly stiff anyway. The steering did feel a lot more precise at speed. I think the old bushes were moving about over bumps and causing the steering to wander a bit. The O/S bush was quite soft and the N/S one already had a tear in it.

Getting two new front tyres fitted and a 4 wheel alignment in the morning.

New tyres fitted yesterday but track rod ends seized, so they weren’t able to do the tracking. Looks like I need new inner rods and rod ends. Also the rear adjusters were seized, so need to free them off, or fit new bolts and bushes. Going to concentrate on the front first.

New tyres fitted yesterday but track rod ends seized, so they weren’t able to do the tracking. Looks like I need new inner rods and rod ends. Also the rear adjusters were seized, so need to free them off, or fit new bolts and bushes. Going to concentrate on the front first.