Thanks to forum member Bradders I have got a spare “faulty” starter motor.
So , today I took it along to a local specialist Auto Electrician garage.
I had a lengthy chat with the owner/ electrician who was happy to delve into what is causing the dreaded “clunck” Fault that so many 2010/12 4.4tdv8 owners have suffered.
He agreed that the most likely cause is going to be high resistance / burned/ tarnished contacts in the solenoid section of the starter motor.
I watched him connect it to a very impressive test jig to confirm its workings.
Sod’s law then took over and despite testing it well over 20 times over a period of 30-45 minutes it never failed to operate perfectly ever single time, even on reduced voltage.
He was genuinely interested to find the problem, but wanted to see it “clunck” before stripping it down, so he asked me to leave it with him and he is going to re-test it until it fails.
He will contact me as soon as he has any news, at which point I will update this thread.

Cheers
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

This should be interesting Mike.

My 2012 Westie has given me a click a couple times lately, so i'll soon have to replace the starter or see if I can clean up the solenoid contacts.

Mike

Interesting Mike - it was gradually getting worse and worse on the car and always took more than 3-4 attempts by the time I had it replaced. I hope you get it sorted and can make use of it. Current: FF Westminster money pit

Gone:
RRS 4.2 SC
RRS 3.6 TDV8
FL2 TD4

When the dealer workshop was investigating my starter motor there was no obvious "fail" but apparently it overheated, it was replaced and the 'click only on pressing button' issue did not occur again while I had that car. Only Range Rovers since 1988

After replacing my starter motor I decided to dismantle the old one to see what was causing the "Click" problem.

To get inside the solenoid housing to inspect the contacts I had to snip a welded electrical connection to remove the plastic cover. If you do this be very very careful as you can easily damage the delicate internal connections inside the solenoid.


Once inside the cause of the problem became clear, the high current contacts were blackened. They can easily be cleaned but when I tried to buy a spares kit I was told that this particular starter motor was not a serviceable item which is a bit odd as the replacement I bought was a remanufactured one!!

Maybe it is because the welded connection needs specialist kit to reinstate. 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

Tom,
Thanks for your reply.
I spent quite a bit of time trying to strip the solenoid myself but gave up , not wanting to break anything, and took it to the specialist garage where they have all the right tools and test bench equipment.
If they do replace the contacts I will get all the part numbers etc and report back.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Gents,
Sadly this has come to a dead halt.
Despite exhaustive efforts the specialist auto electricians garage has drawn a blank.
As Tom says, spare parts are not available for this model.
He has tried everywhere he knows, to get either contacts, full cap, or full solenoid, but nothing is available.

Cheers
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Thanks for the effort Mike, and what a bunch of LR are for not making it repairable Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

I just fixed this on my m62 starter, yes its different to the tdv8 but no one around did a repair kit then I contacted a guy on the bay who sent me a contacts kit. Result one fixed starter motor.

When mine was replaced the defective unit went back to LR for refurbishment, there was a credit on the bill for the used unit. Hence maybe why LR don't sell parts. Only Range Rovers since 1988

Even Denso don’t list any parts.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Today, for the first time B.B. refused to start first press of the button.
Just dead whenfoot on brake pedal.
I left it for a couple of minutes, switched on the wipers, because it was chucking down, tried again and it jumped into life.

When I got home and checked my emails, Opie Oils had sent a “Spring15” discount offer , so it seemed like fate.
I have just ordered a new Denso 1207 starter motor, knowing it is only a matter of time until I will have to change it.
£240 reduced to £204 and inc free delivery.
Just hope my ageing body can cope long enough to change it.

Any fitting tips appreciated
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Hi guys,

I just changed mine yesterday with the same Denso 1207 from Opie.

The process was relatively straight forward, though if i was to do it again (never ) then i'd make a slight change to how i did it.

So, if you need to do yours:

1 - Slacken the drivers-side wheel nuts, but don't remove the wheel yet.

2 - Remove the undertray, 6 nuts with 10mm socket.

3 - Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and put a cloth or something over the battery post to avoid accidental reconnection.

4 - Jack the drivers wheel up and remove it. Now, i suggest placing the subframe or chassis on jacks because you need to get the wheel off AND lower the front suspension as far as you can to make sure the anti-roll bar is at it's lowest point possible (more on this later). One option could be to also have a big enough jack to lift both wheels off the ground at the front.

5 - With the wheel off, remove the silver heat shield in front of you. You'll remove 2 x 10mm nuts to the rear and top of the shield and 2 x 8mm screws holding the heat shield to the subframe. Remove the shield.

6 - You should now be able to see the starter. Remove the 8mm screw that's side on to you holding another shield between the starter and the O/S turbo. You will also see a 13mm screw at the top of that shield holding it to the block. Remove that shield too.

7 - Check that your battery is disconnected, then using a 7mm socket, disconnect the trigger lead from the screw terminal below the main power feed.

8 - Remove the plastic cap that covers the main battery feed to the starter. Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the nut holding the battery lead to the starter. Pull the lead off and out of the way.

9 - Pull off the stubby rubber breather hose from the side of the starter. Pull the other end of the rubber breather off the right-hand end of the starter and move the hose out of the way. Pull the hose clamp off of the upper starter mounting bolt. Get both hands in there and wiggle it off the stud.

10 - Using a 13mm ratchet spanner, slacken both of the starter mounting bolts. The lower is best gotten to from below, but can be done from the side. The upper can be done either way too. The upper bolt is a strange looking one.....like a normal bolt, but with an extended stud coming out of the head where the breather hose clamp fits onto. Once both bolts are out, push the starter towards the front of the car to disengage it and lower it down.

11 - Now, this is where you need to make sure the anti-roll bar at it's lowest point, because you are going to have to manoeuvre the starter out of the gap. Working from the side, twist the starter so that the solenoid is towards the rear of the car and the main body is towards the front. The starter will have to come out teeth first and try to get your hand in the gap to the right and behind the starter so that you can take the weight with your right hand and use your left hand to twist and turn it until it comes out.

12 - Replacement (as they say) is a reverse of removal.

I can't emphasise enough that you need to have the anti-roll bar as low as possible. Without it, you will not get the starter out. The 3.6's may be different, but this method is for the 4.4's.

All tolled, it took me about 2-3 hours with a couple of coffee breaks.

If you want a graphic illustration of the job, have a look at Edfors post, though i think it was for a 3.6 and not a 4.4.

Regards,
Mike

Sod’s law Mike. Sorry to hear yours has succumbed to the same problem. I got mine from Opie too and paid £140 for a local Indy for fitting while I enjoyed a few coffees and a rummage through their 2nd hand spares collection. Hope you get sorted. Current: FF Westminster money pit

Gone:
RRS 4.2 SC
RRS 3.6 TDV8
FL2 TD4

Mpirie (Mike)
Thanks for your excellent post contribution
Your timing could not have been better, and I am sure I will benefit from the guidance you have listed.
I will take some photos as the job progress ‘s and add them to this post.
I just hope that mine behaves this week whilst I await delivery of the new one.

Cheers Mike from. Mike. .

PS Brad, I am stubborn old “garden path mechanic”, and will only go down the local independent route when I finally admit 70 is time to retire
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair