The fact is you shouldn’t have to pay for parts to be changed when the vehicle is under warranty! If I was being cynical I would think the dealers and Land Rover get on like this just so people get off and end up either a) going somewhere else or b) just put up with the problem

I totally agree but sometimes its better to get the problem fixed then move on.

The front struts have been superseded 4 times since the original part numbers.

Good that Lloyds have been helpful anyway. Part of the problem for them may be that the roads around Kelso are not as bad as in some other places, e.g. Edinburgh, and the smaller roads don't allow higher speeds that might show the instability. When I was trying to demonstrate a noise from the dashboard to the workshop foreman it took a long time to find a section of road that would set it off. You might consider trying to find a section of road that consistently produces the symptoms. I recall that the road (A697) from Cornhill to Wooler has some poor surfaces and bends that might work, that is not too far away travelling along the south bank of the Tweed. Only Range Rovers since 1988

what are people's views on which part solves this issue - the valve block, the lower wishbone bushes or the struts (and then which part of the strut the damper or something else?) 2016 (L405) Autobiography in Black with Ivory - for ULEZ
2014 (L405) VSE in Black with Ivory
2011 (L322) VSE in Black with Ivory
2005 (3.2 V6) Porsche Cayenne in Black with Savanna
1999 (P38) VSE in Burgundy (?) with Sand

The good news is that new ARB bushes on my Oct 2016 5.0 SC V8 have restored the front suspension to normal. The bad news is that this defect, which I first experienced on my Oct 2013 4.4 SDV8 straight out the showroom, has not been permanently fixed by JLR. As ever, it took multiple visits to the dealer and a "sponsored" drive with one of their techs before they accepted the "knock" was present on my latest car. On mine, the 100% reliable scenario for provoking the "knock" was passing over a traffic calmed raised junction whilst turning left. This caused the n/s/f wheel to drop off the raised "traffic calming" plinth and provoked "the knock" every time. Drove over the test route today on the way back from the garage and it behaved impeccably, smooth and well damped with no knock! FFRR user since 1974. RR No. 10 (2021MY P525 AB delivered Nov 2020) Gone. No 11. P550e AB MY2024 delivered June 2024

bumping this thread bc I have the clunk and wobble/swaying from side to side. Also on colder morning I noticed I get a "suspension leaning fault" on the dash that goes away if engine turnoff/back on.


Question is.....how hard is it to replace the ARB bushings? I bought 2. I took a look and you can't seem to get to it from the side underneath (can't get to the nuts that hold the bushing clamp on). If you drop the skid plate can these be reached and a fairly easy to swap the bushings? 2014 FF Autobiography 5.0 SC
2008 FFRR (sold)
2008 BMW M5

Yes, easy enough to replace on the L405. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Perfect. Thank you. The LR dealer said it was the bushings which are starting to cause the LCA bushings to wear. They wanted crazy money to pop new ARC sway bar bushings on so i bought a set myself to put on.

When looking at them they didn’t look too worn or have a gap....but you can only see the very edge.
Not exactly confident this will fix the issue but if it’s an easy DIY I can roll it out.

Was thinking about doing the rears...those are super easy to get to. Is it the same part for the rears? 2014 FF Autobiography 5.0 SC
2008 FFRR (sold)
2008 BMW M5

No, the rears are different to the fronts.

Front:

It’s not a hard job, did mine on the drive, with the car on stands

Take off the skid plate, then iirc there is a member which comes down on each side and the clamp is bolted to that. It’s pretty easy, there is enough flex in the hoses to drop the ARB enough. The bolts are single shot jobs which need a specific torque plus an additional angle to do them up properly. So you will need new bolts as well as the bushings. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

knwatkins wrote:

No, the rears are different to the fronts.

Front:
[img:614:517]https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22607/l405-front-arb.png[img]

Rear:
[img:688:518]https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22607/l405-rear-ace-arb.png[/]

northernmonkeyjones wrote:

It’s not a hard job, did mine on the drive, with the car on stands

Take off the skid plate, then iirc there is a member which comes down on each side and the clamp is bolted to that. It’s pretty easy, there is enough flex in the hoses to drop the ARB enough. The bolts are single shot jobs which need a specific torque plus an additional angle to do them up properly. So you will need new bolts as well as the bushings.

Yes basically, if you take off the skid plate then you can drop the supports down and replace the bushings.

Once you have unbolted the supports and dropped them down you can spin them over to get at the nuts for them.

All the bolts are single use. But be careful with cross threading them as the subframe is ally and the bolts are steel. It is a bit of a wrestle..... make sure you mark the position of the bushes on the sway bar so they go in the right place when you remove them, means everything will be in roughly the right place when it all goes back together.

Yea those are the 3 bolts I removed on the one side (passenger side - US). I tried to pry the member down to rotate but wouldn’t budge a lot (maybe bc the other side was still bolted up?) once I saw I couldnt reach the nuts on the bushing clamp (to remove the bushing) I decided quit bc it was getting dark. I had a hell of a time getting trying to push the member back up to where it was. I re-used (put back in) the 3 bolts...once I put the 1 in furthers to the front bumper it helped line up the rest of the holes. The back one is the B*** bc it goes in on an angle.

Curious why you can’t re-use the bolts? I was planning on it hmm.

Hopefully if I take all 6 bolts out the 2 members will drop easier and allow me to rotate the sway bar to get to the bushing nuts. I did notice when I was wresting the member to try and get it lined up I was able to slide the sway bar insider the bushing...it moved when I pulled on the sway bar/control arm...is that normal? Or is that a sign the bushing is definitely bad?

As far as putting the new bushing in the same spot....wouldn’t you just center it in the bushing clamp? The clamp has to fit where it bolts up so there really isn’t any guess work...unless I’m not understanding?

Lastly, no alignment needed afterwards correct? 2014 FF Autobiography 5.0 SC
2008 FFRR (sold)
2008 BMW M5

Basically the clamp is fixed to the car on the member, but ther isn’t a fixed side to side position on the sway bar, when you drop it down it is free to move side to side slightly. As you will have unbolted the supports from the car, once you unbolt the clamp they are effectively off the car...So unless you get the clamp back in the right place on the sway bar before you assemble it’s possible that it will be slightly out of place on the sway bar and the holes on the support member won’t line up with the holes in the subframe as the clamp and the rubber have been moved slightly along the sway bar. The old runners will be lose and easily moved, the new rubbers are much tighter..... so more difficult to reposition the member.

I think the nuts on the clamp are single shot and are locking type (but not nyloc)

From what I remember the suspension member bolts are likely torque to yield bolts, not 100% on that tho. The WM says to replace all so I did. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6