Opening doors, putting hazard lights on etc. does nothing - hence why it’s not mentioned in the handbook.

That's not true. Opening a door interrupts a suspension height change for safety reasons. It may not prevent adjustments but it stops a change between access / standard / exetended height. It even shows up on the info display when it happens. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

It used to be the tailgate as well as any doors on the P38A - I believe the hazard warning lights were simply that:
"Warning Range Rover being jacked!!"

On the L322 you can leave a side door open, or you can try the inhibit switch on the console, or use your iiDTool to disable the EAS.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

My point is that there’s no real benefit to doing it when you’re just changing a wheel - if there was, it would be detailed in the handbook.

Maybe not for just changing a wheel. But anytime a part of me is going to go between a sprung piece of the FF and an unsprung piece (or anything else that's fixed), I do it. Anything that easy to do that might prevent a height change seems worthwhile to me. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

the manual only mentions jacking to lift the body, using jacking points and subframes not suspension arms.
I've only done it this way and never had any issues with suspension adjusting.

maybe if you jack it up using the suspension arms you start getting issues because the EAS thinks the wheels are moving through travel...?

from the workshop manual regarding air suspension inhibit modes, make of it what you will.

Believe me. Being under the fatty and forgetting to leave a door open, then hearing the eas valves start to adjust the height is a code brown moment!!! 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 on Gas
1961 88" 2.25 diesel - George
Gone - 1997 3.9 V8i Discovery - Burt

Been there, done it, never moved so fast, a very unsettling sound .

can you explain what state the car was in when the adjustment started?
was it jacked up from body or suspension?
where were the axle stands etc?

my interpretation from reading the manual is that when you are jacking the body up it detects the wheel dropping too slowly to be a road input and assumes it is being jacked up and inhibits any adjustments until the same height is reached again i.e. when letting the body back down.

if you are not jacking the vehicle using the body i think this is when you run into issues because the vehicle doesn't detect it is being jacked because the wheels are moving up with the body and not going slowly into droop.

like i said ive always lifted the car in line with the manual and never had any issues.

Done when I was replacing all brake pipes,

I was using a combination of 3 ton trolley jack, 4.. 3 ton axle stands and my ramps. Sorry I cant remember the exact details
but all I can say is it tried to level the body. My drive has a slight slope in 2 directions so doesn't really help the situation.
The movement was very slight only about 10-20mm, its the sound of air escaping that surprised me, the doors were shut.

Maybe not the same, but I jacked my Disco 4 up at the weekend.

off road height and door open.

As soon as the jack started to lift (placed under the suspension arm), there was a hissing and the wheel lifted itself up off the floor. Never been so easy. Must have thought it was grounded or something

this extract from the WM explains how to jack up the FF,

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/us...acking.pdf