Hi,

I am having continued problems with my 3.6 TDV8 59 plate L322. 100k miles (EGRs blanked and disabled, engine remapped)

Last year in November on the return from a trip out with the family the RR experienced a lack of power and the 'Engine system fault' message whilst driving at 40 - 50 mph.

This was quickly diagnosed as a split upper intercooler hose on the N/S of the vehicle. I drove the vehicle the rest of the way home (25 miles) at or below 40 mph.

The next day I was able to source a pair of replacement silicone intercooler hoses and set about fitting these.

I replaced the split hose on the N/S first and whilst changing the undamaged O/S hose I discovered this hose had a pool of oil in it.

Upon test driving I found the RR had some 'driveability' issues which were not present before the hose split.

1. lethargicness. The RR feels sluggish and unwilling to accelerate unless pressing into the throttle half way at which point the car wakes up and takes off instead of gently increasing speed (i.e driving at 30 and wishing to speed up gently to 40 mph)

2. Hesitation. During full throttle acceleration the RR hesitates at 3k rpm before pushing on. This can be seen on the rev counter.

3. Fluctuating idle in drive. When holding the footbrake with the car in drive the idle will fluctuate. The rev counter can be seen to waver up and down slightly.

A couple of months have passed/4000 miles and the issues have never seemed to worsen or improve.

After discussing with a specialist it was decided that the turbo on the o/s was having issues due to the oil observed in the intercooler pipe. I am not sure if this would be related to the split pipe on the n/s ?

The turbo has been replaced with a new borg-warner unit direct from Land Rover. The garage observed oil in the pipework from the turbo to intercooler but no detrimental play in the turbocharger unit itself.

Unfortunately this has not made any improvements to the initial issues listed above which manifested themselves after the split pipe n/s.

I am now at a loss as I have a car with no apparent issues and no fault codes which drives crap.

Any suggestions welcomed and appreciated.

Sounds similar behaviour to my previous TD5 D2 when the MAP sensor became very clogged. Only use a spray cleaner inside a MAP sensor because solid objects such as wire risks damaging the sensor. Your engine has 2 MAP sensors.

I did try cleaning the map sensors back in December however I would imagine at least the o/s one will be contaminated with oil again due to the turbo.

I will clean both tonight and report back. Thanks Graeme.

Injectors need a clean would be my guess.
Does your RR have a DPF? Maybe the whole system needs cleaning out. Fuel system, Egr's, (DPF), ect..........! 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Zermatt Silver with Charcoal

Hi Grofus,

My RR doesn't have a DPF. Although its a 59 plate it isn't a facelift model.

I have run a bottle of millers injector cleaner through the car and it didn't make any difference.

The EGR valves shouldn't be part of my issue as they were blanked and mapped out well before the boost pipe split and the issues started.

I feel like if it was anyone else they would just replace the boost hose and be on the way. However something else must have become damaged on my car.

Is it possible to have a boost leak between the turbo and intercooler but without the MAP sensor picking up the issue? ( i have no fault codes)

inlet manifold cracked??

I have considered a possible cracked inlet manifold Stan. Would this give me codes though as the MAPs wouldnt be reading correctly?

Suppose i need to find someone with a smoke tester or build my own.

Ok so i removed and cleaned both MAP sensors. The left hand one was very oily as expected. I also cleaned the intercooler pipe on this side of residual oil.

Took the car for a drive about an hour or so and it drove great! Hopefully this isnt placebo but should it begin to drive poorly again I will check the MAP sensor again.

Thanks for the suggestion Graeme.

Hopefully the poor running will have been fixed for the time being.

Things are getting interesting.. RR driving crap again this morning so decided to repeat exactly what I did last night.

Removed the O/S map sensor and cleaned it although it wasn't yet dirty again and also removed the intercooler pipe, cleaned the residual oil and refitted.

Car driving great again on a 20 mile drive.

I doubt removing, cleaning and refitting the intercooler hose is doing anything but perhaps the map sensor is going bad on this side? It doesn't set any codes.

Suppose I will have attempt just cleaning and refitting the sensor the next time the RR plays up

Another small update,

Decided to replace the MAP sensors just incase one was faulty without producing a code.

Things have improved slightly but after driving a friends 3.6 I can tell it still isnt right. Just feels lethargic? Feels like it might still have a boost leak

Any further suggestions or ideas appreciated.

Cleaning the MAFs would be appropriate although if you have an IIDTool then you could compare airflow readings and compare left and right boost too.

It's not unheard for one of the lower turbo hoses to fail. There are 6 in total. 2 are short near the turbo and 2 longer to the intercooler and the 2 top ones that always fail. You can normally hear a boost leak.

Is it sluggish right through the rev range or just low down. I ask because I had really poor acceleration below 2500 rpm then it took off as it should. I had done a full fluid change including gearbox after having the car remapped. Pick from stand still was snail like and I thought it was the map/engine related. Turned out that resetting the gearbox adaptations fixed it. The following 200 miles or so saw it get better and now its great. Read this, https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic49548.html
Good luck finding it 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Zermatt Silver with Charcoal

Cracked inlet manifold gives turbo boost pressure faults.

When I had mine, it did appear to give odd drivability issues but I came to the conclusion this was down to the autobox getting confused. It all settled down when the manifold was replaced.

Thanks again all for your suggestions.

I will go away and clean the mafs, I have SDD Graeme and I have previously checked boost pressure readings at various engine loads and found them to be consistent no more than 5 to 10 kpa different from each other.

I have also already reset the gearbox adaptions which has perhaps helped a little.

I think a smoke test is the way to go here as it will confirm both the pipework and the inlet manifold suggestions.

I will update when I have tried them out