For a complete answer you need an LPG guy but engine temp still hits the 200 F mark so I see no reason why not.

Jmckenzie295 wrote:

My question is, I have lpg running, will this affect the automatic switch over from petrol to LPG?

Jmckenzie295 wrote:

I am definitely thinking of getting this done. Probably will go with the BEHR as as far as I can see is a straight swap, correct?

My question is, I have lpg running, will this affect the automatic switch over from petrol to LPG? to clarify, the lpg won't run when the engine is cold and generally switches to it when the temp gets to the top of the blue.

Should this just work as is, or would something have to be changed?


Cheers

The LPG switchover will depend on a number of defaults (time, revs falling, pressure etc) and two defaults relating to the temperature will be the temperature switch over value (obviously) but also the time to switch to LPG from 1. Cold and 2. Warm / hot

Most LPG systems calibrate from 60 degrees C so this mod should be fine.

Personally my LPG is set to switch over within 5 seconds of starting and that’s about 18 degrees so I use very little petrol.

Hope this helps?

Regards,


John

Thanks guys, very helpful.

I think I will just tackle the modded version. Mainly because it allows me to put the connector on it.

Cheers
John

So I done the modded thermostat today, all fits together nicely with the housing etc. However, only 3 bolts go in, the 3Rd will not seems to be the bottom two are slightly out.

Has anyone had this issue? What would you do to fix it? My main issue is the 3 parts to the modded thermostat came ready assembled and not sure if they can be pulled apart without damaging the paper gaskets in the middle.

Any thought welcome.

Cheers

You shouldn’t need to separate the parts and if the bolts go through with it out then you should be fine when fitted. Did you try rotating it 90 degrees in the housing and did you grind off the old mounts ok ?

Everything is grinded and smooth, the holes don't line up at all if at any other variant. Only one way. I would agree, but if when all bolts are in and the last hole ends up at a slight angle it won't go into the engine side of the thermostat. Well that's the only explanation I can come up with.

I know one of the bolts is difficult to access which is why they supply cap heads but I used all all hex head as I used a 1/4 drive ratchet. Did you use the cap heads supplied and can you get all four bolts in lose to start them and then tighten ?

The last one finally caught the thread. Alot of shifting about. But got their in the end.

Just testing now.

Hopefully positive outcome and on to the next job.

Cheers
John

Is this mod still available?

Certainly is, here’s the link

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=ht...4183152212

Works a treat too  ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

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Thank you

Frankly, having done the mod, I wouldn't bother. I'd buy the bolt-on non-heated thermostat housing that has a lower temp thermostat.

I think the part no. is Mahle or Behr TI 32 88 - it's an 88 deg C thermostat. See pix on page 3 of this thread.

One advantage is that you have a brand new part with no corrosion. I had to remove the old connector as it was leaking and then reseal and refit it. I then added lots of epoxy into the hole where the connector was originally. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
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