That sounds about right with the seat bars but as I’m naturally lazy I’ll still spen 10 seconds with a Stanley knife if there’s a next time.

Hmf, Stratstone quoted:

£374.40 labour to do the TB plus £500.23 pence for the service - so £874.63 total.

Food for thought...

As a guide I reckon I could do the whole job in under 2 hours now I know where everything is and how it comes apart, obviously it took me a lot longer than that but I’m a cautious amateur.
I would call it an easy job as everything is pretty accessible

Just had this back from Hatfields (Mike is the parts guy):

I have had a conversation with Michael and worked out the job will be £772.20 this however doesn’t include the parts you spoke with Michael over- we would need the vehicle in for the full day.


!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I've written back & asked if that's including the Service.

Are you able to send the bulletin to Stan for inclusion in Wiki ?

Mike G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Is this any good?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10057588-6294.pdf

Ok, very long post with pics follows:

I've had good & bad news this weekend. I've taken some pics & uploaded some of them as can be seen below.

Suspecting (but not knowing for obvious reasons) that there may still be too much fuel in the tank, I made a start on the TB;

I removed the seat fastenings, raised the carpet and held it back with some improvised rope, then removed inspection plate / cover over the fuel pump / tank / senders and confirmed that there was indeed too much fuel still in the tank to get to all 3 connectors (which are to be removed & instead crimped as per the TB). That said, I'm still unsure how to remove the pump / sender?

I did manage to replace the obvious connector just inside the tank (pictured below), I also fitted the new tank rubber seals for what it was worth as well. The new seals are orange as opposed to the original ones being black? No clue why.

As I couldn't get to the others / release & remove the fuel pump - the fuel level was just too deep (can anyone re-describe how the fuel pump or sender is removed, once fuel is low enough please?), I closed up everything & tested.

Well, the fuel gauge now reads fine - but obviously, I still have 2 further weak points - in that the other 2 connectors are yet to be replaced - but there was an instant positive change - in that the fuel gauge is now reporting accurately (it went up to 1/2 - car parked on incline though - but about right) & I'd done +/- 244 miles driving fairly economically / longish drives.

The bad news is, I've got a new fault! Dash reported "Suspension Fault" - with IID, the rear right suspension level sensor reported:

C1A06-1C (AF) Rear right height sensor - General electrical failure - circuit voltage out of range

which of course, recurred immediately after an IID clear-faults.

As it was the same side as the fuel tank where I'd been working, I thought it too much of a coincidence to NOT be related.

So I had a good look. Turns out that the wiring to the level sensor goes through the grommet of the same inspection plate and then splits off away from the fuel tank toward the sensor.

What I think has happened is: as I'd disconnected the Wesbasto / FBH fuel pipe from the tank cap / flange, I think I put some pressure on the level sensor's wiring loom (going down from the grommet toward the sensor) and as a result, probably bridged / shorted a probably already corroded wire. I didn't put much pressure on it mind - hence why I think it was on its way anyway...

*** Very FOOLISHLY *** I got partially under the body, located & touched the connector into the level sensor and the wires going in it. They're fairly tight and nothing much moved. I got out from underneath (yes I know I should have put an axle-stands under the chassis) and the car dropped to the floor (way beyond access height) - literally!

So there's a fault / short there - I'm convinced of it.

So in fixing one issue, I seem to have accelerated another into surfacing (or levelling?? sorry for poor humour there!).

This part (for a Disco 3 I think) ymq503220 is the kind of thing I need to repair it I think. I need to remove the rear wheel to get access (my drive is very steep / 1:4 so I struggle on this point).

What a game...If anyone knows what the equivalent part is - I'd be interested but I have emailed my local LR Dealer anyway.

Ok so some pics of the fuel sender bits & bobs (& then the level sensor wires too):

What's under the carpet:

Sorry can’t help with your suspension problem but can suggest some pump removal help.
It sits in a moulded location on the tank floor and is locked in place by a spring loaded bar which pushes against the roof of the tank. You push down on the bar and pull the top of the pump towards you, once released it’s easier wriggle the pump out of the access hole upside down.
Mine only had 2 connectors and you seem to have sorted your initial problem so I probably wouldn’t bother doing the other one unless it failed in the future.

So, both faults fixed but I had a bit of a game on mine:

On the fuel pump TB fix: having already replaced 1 connector (as above), I still had (at least) 1 more which I was going to leave (didn't do both / all 1st time around as there was too much diesel in the tank). That said, I'd parked the car downhill on my drive & next time the car was started, it suddenly said it had no fuel (from 1/4 full). Not being certain whether this was genuine or not, I thought I need to do remnant connectors in the tank I was expecting 3 connectors but just like yours CASS, there was definitely only 2 in mine too. The 2nd one was pretty much at the back of the pump.

I released the pump, (having had a game understanding how it came out until I removed the passenger side sender - that one was a doddle of course). Mine seemed really tough to compress the clamp / springs down.

If you're reading this deciding on if you're going to do yours or not, well, be careful about when the spring clamp is released - if it's allowed (like I had) to suddenly spring up - without damping it (say with your hand) - you run the risk of what happened to me....

When I released the pump clamp, this happened (I don't know why the pics are upside down?):

Having just done this job I can second tj2k's comments about being careful releasing the pump spring clamp. I also lost the bar / spring and then spent 5mins with my hand in the tank trying to find the bar only to discover it drops into the pump assembly. Having put it back together the thing only dropped in again as I was fitting it (having just got all the other gubbins into the tank). Out it all came again just to refit the bar & spring.

It's a pig of a job to get the fuel pump and senders out if you've never done it before and there's a good chance of getting diesel all over the place. I'm surprised I can't smell it in the car now - the combination of plastic sheeting and newspaper must have done its job.

When I took off the RH cover, I tested the resistance across the senders and had one at 200 Ohms and one at 2k Ohms so something wasn't right. IID was showing a fuel sender 2 fault also.

The other top tip (as suggested by cass) is to cut the carpet under the seat bars rather than remove them. Saves one job and any issues realigning them.

Mine is a 2009 3.6 TDV8 and it looked just like tj2k's photos. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

Well done 👍My house stank of diesel for a long time afterwards!

ive also just done this job on my 2010VSE tdv8

the gauge reading zero has happened before but cured itself when i fitted a new battery so i thought it was just one of those voltage gremlins. it returned last week however so i read up on it but not before filling it up to ensure it didn't run out!

drove it around for a week to get the level down some and got prepared with a couple of jerry cans and a drill operated pump to extract sufficient diesel to get below quarter full as discussed earlier in this thread.

definately cut the carpet - simple with a stanley knife and you wont see the joint when you fit it back together. i took off the right side inspection plate and it looked like the tank was empty but its difficult to tell (i later found, after fixing it that it was actually 5/8 full).

couldn't see the pump at all (because of the fuel level), just the 3 pipes going down from the inspection plate with the cables next to them. the first connector is accessible for repair without removing anything further and in my case this appeared to be the culprit. this connector just hangs in the fuel and had no support and was crying out for a small cable tie to hold it against the bulk of the harness and i suspect that could have caused the problem. using a torch and a mgnifying glass i couldn't see any fretting on the pins and and unplugging / replugging a few times then switching on ignition has fixed it.

looking at the electrical connector externally on the tank there are 8 male pins with all the pins in-line. the two pins on each end are the ones for the sender units and, armed with this knowledge, if i was doing the job agian i would test the resistance between each pair before pulling it apart as that would confirm that the problem was deffo inside the tank and depending upon which of the two pin pairs was open circuit, might also save you from pulling the pump to access the connector which was ok. in my case i had 460 ohms and 475 ohms when i checked after reseating the first connector a few times which, as i said, equates to over half a tank full. i couldn't even see the other connector without further removal.

its certainly one of those jobs that is easier to do than it is to explain and which could be done again in a fraction of the time


as a side note: i only drove around 100 miles since the problem manifested itself this time around but the first occurence about 2 years ago drove far more and haven't experienced the engine shut down problems others have described

MikeO wrote:

Mine is a 2009 3.6 TDV8 and it looked just like tj2k's photos.

I don't know which one is which but it's a relatively easy job to do what dexion7 did and you have a 50% chance of success. You only need to remove the right hand cover plates and reach inside.

If it's the other one you're probably looking at least a couple of hours of messing about and a fair bit of mess...  2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

DMRR wrote:

MikeO wrote:

Mine is a 2009 3.6 TDV8 and it looked just like tj2k's photos.

Mine is the same year and I have a fuel sender 2 issue. Is that the easy one to sort or do I have to remove the pump? I don't get much time off from work so would need to plan well in advance!