It is highly unlikely that the steering wheel functions will work, as your system is optically connected , were as the older system is linked via canbus... AFAIK the later cars don't have canbus  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Pretty sure the canbus system is different when the BMW engined cars ended so no, I don't think it will work with the steering wheel buttons... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

That's where it is confusing to me. How is this done? Do the steering wheel controls have a module that is MOst or is it plugged into the the head unit? I think it is plugged into the head unit then it is just wiring it to a steering wheel interface. But i have no way of verifying that.

It just uses signals on the canbus system but the head unit is talking German and the car talks English so they won't work... It's not just a system that does the steering wheel controls it's used for all sorts.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I've had a skim through the thread and it's left me pretty confused

The model numbers in the thread are now obsolete as far as I can see , when I put e39 android into eBay there's 7" 9" android 5-6-7

Some look flat some look curved

Has anyone fitted one of the current generation , if so which one , I have a 2003 HSE without nav so I'm hoping it's a fairly simple fit

Thanks

You can't fit the flat panel ones that protrude from the dash, the FF dash has the overhang from the top crash pad and this will stop you fitting it, the latest one you want is this one AFAIK...

https://www.erisin.com/erisin-es3453b-7-bm..._uploads=0

Buy it direct from them, chose the parcelforce courier and your VAT etc is then prepaid and you will get it in 3-4 days... just under £220 all in...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks Pete , much appreciated

Hi again Pete.
If you would happend to have the time...: from my posting on the forum..
***
I’ve read all the different pthreads on this theme, both here and on Rangerovers.net.
Thanks all for contributing to a super thread, and to Pete Haylands that first opended my eyes to the possibilities with an android unit.
I have written here previously on the thread started by Haylands, but to repeat my self: I have a 2004 Vogue 3.0 Td with original large screen, DSP, Navi, telephone, TV and FBH.
I have gotten the latest head unit from Erisin with Android 7.1 with DAB and have have hade a dry run in the boot. Unfortunately all photos from earlier posting stored in photobucket are gone, making the wiring some what interresting as there are nill instructions that comes with then new head unit.

Anyway, connected the new headunit up in the boot and it works. I also plan to keep the old head unit in the glove box as I want to be able to set the clock without waiting for 12 noon of midnight and do the fuse routine, also keep it for the FBH.

But, my issue is this: As I disconnect the conponents in the original system from the wiring loom, all is fine and I see them dissapear from the screen of the old head unit. That is until I unplug the blue connector on the TV box. Then the old head unit goes black. And will only reappear if I insert the blue plug in the TV component. I was planning to install a new amp in the space where all the old stuff was, so I really would like to take it all out.

Does anyone have the same experience? Haylands and a lot of you other guys seem to have done the same routine and emptied the rear left compartment of old equippement and placed the old head unit in the glove box and I have not read any other persons with the same black screen experience for the old head unit..
Have I missed something?
Ps. The CD changer is still installed.


Thanks guys.
Ottar

Hi Ottar,

I’m at the same point as you on this.

My head unit is working, I used the long cable front to rear, and have got working steering wheel controls so can bus is connected.

Also got rds radio, as I connected the fakra aerial, so that’s all good to.

The only thing I don’t have, and a pretty big thing is the sound.

Looking at the big connector, very few of the speaker connections are wired in, so I’m sure that’s the issue.

I don’t think I’m going to bother with keeping the head unit, even though I do have it relocated to the glove box and all works ok.

I think it will be best to wire the speakers directly to the new head unit speaker cable outputs, and get rid of dsp all together.

The problem I have is that my wiring for the speakers does not seem to corespond with the wiring diagram pin outs that Pete put in the original post.

I think this could just be that Pete’s car did not have the dsp amp, or he just got rid of it.

I’ve found some wiring info on the L322 Vogue I have here.

But again it does not seem to match my wiring?.

Click image to enlarge

On the dsp amp in the boot, I assume that it has the big connector, for power and audio inut, and the two smalller connectors being the output to the speakers?

If so can I just wire the cables from the head unit output directly to the two sets of cables from the small plugs?

Some photos here if that makes any sense?

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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Click image to enlarge

Hi,

I've just joined after lurking for a while. I recently purchased a 2004 L322 TD6 and have just placed an order for a Eonon GA8201A along with the Extended Wiring Harness (model A0579)

While I am not a car electrical engineer or indeed very practical, I am pretty handy with IT stuff and will be having a crack at installing it.

I'll try and document it as much as possible and feed back to this thread how it works out. Wish me luck!

Good luck Mr Seewolfe.

seewolfe wrote:

Hi,

I've just joined after lurking for a while. I recently purchased a 2004 L322 TD6 and have just placed an order for a Eonon GA8201A along with the Extended Wiring Harness (model A0579)

While I am not a car electrical engineer or indeed very practical, I am pretty handy with IT stuff and will be having a crack at installing it.

I'll try and document it as much as possible and feed back to this thread how it works out. Wish me luck!

Since I took delivery of all the bits from Eonon today (ordered Tuesday), I decided to have a crack at a test install in the boot to ensure I understood how everything connected.

Here are my notes, I hope they help anyone thinking about this upgrade.

It took around 10 mins for me to gain access to the 40 pin input (the loom to the oem head unit) on the BM54.

This 40 pin block was then disconnected from the BM54 and then connected to the new 5m loom via one of its two 40 pin blocks on one end. The other 40 pin block then goes into the BM54 so everything is daisy chained together. There are two 17 pin blocks on the same 5m loom - ignore these. The other end is plugged into the new head unit.

The package also came with a small box with "Can Bus Decoder" written on it and this is plugged into the end of the new loom as well.

I then powered the car up and the Eonon booted up.

Since I had no radio antenna plugged in, I connected to my wireless network and pulled up iPlayer to test the sound through the speakers. Nothing. The oem head unit was powered up but would not switch on. The light on the left was dead and there was no sound.

After scratching my head and double checking everything, I removed the new 40 pin plug from the BM54 and then very carefully re-inserted it, taking care to ensure the lever was firmly pushed down. This did the trick and the audio and sound came out of all the speakers. I left it on for 10 mins to ensure there was no DSP time out.

So, all in all it was pretty much plug and play as long as you take care plugging those horrible 40 pin blocks in.

My next job is to remove the CD disc changer, move the oem head to under the glove box, route the loom from the back to the front and physically install the new head unit. But that will be a job for next week!

Thanks

Well done seewolfe, you got further than me, I have a working unit but still no sound.

I’m pretty sure I did everything the same as you have documented!